FDPP #2

[bmdubya1198]

It's unlikely for there to be any wiring issues requiring ECU removal. It can be removed with a screwdriver, but I don't think you need to remove yours.

[gnalan]

I was just curious if it would be easy to take out, and possibly check for any shorts in the wiring between the ECU and the ETM.

I cleaned the 3 ground points on both sides of the engine bay, 6 total, the big ground near the air box, the engine grounding strap on both ends, replaced my negative terminal bolt with the correctly sized one, and made sure both terminals were tight on the battery. I also swapped the ECU and the starter relays around to see if that would help anything.

No change in the way the car idles, or drives, unfortunately.

I'll throw my DiCE one it tonight, if it isn't raining, and check the throttle position from the ETM, both desired and actual, also the pedal position to see if the pedal is the problem. There's obviously something wrong with it, and I need to fix it soon, so I'm checking everything I can to try and narrow it down.

Has anyone had a chance to check what their pedal position shows, both untouched and pushed to the floor, without the car running, so I can compare my values to a car that actually runs and drives?

I did notice on the positive terminal that there's a ring terminal with a male spade on the other end of it, but nothing attached to it. Does anyone know what should connect to it, and what the wire runs to?

[bmdubya1198]

Graph the pedal position with ignition on, engine off and slowly press it to the floor, then back off. It should be pretty linear.

[gnalan]

Engine off, and key in position II. I wanted to graph the pedal and throttle angles together. Odd that the ETM stays around 20% with a slight hiccup every now and then. I'm wondering if that's the flutter I see with the throttle plate when the car is idling. Is there any reason for it to move at all like it does in the graph, at least a couple of minutes after the key has already been put into position II?

I don't know if the odd pedal movements are from my foot, or the actual pedal. I was doing kind of quick movements to the floor and then letting go of the pedal, and occasionally the pedal followed my foot, near the floor, before I could get it out of the way for the rest of the travel. It looks like the pedal angles are enough for the ECU to set the desired throttle angel at 100% when the pedal is at the end of its travel. I can try to press the pedal slower, and remove the PWM input from the graph to clean it up a little, if needed.

If the pedal is ok, what else could be my problem? Is it still possible that it's just a bad ETM, or should I be looking at a bad wire somewhere, or maybe something completely different? I can't post the video of the throttle plate bouncing around, which is what was making the popping/backfiring sound I could hear/feel through the air box.

[gnalan]

VID_20200901_103758.zip

(3.01 MiB) Downloaded 140 times

Here's a 10 second video of the engine idling showing what the throttle plate does. This seems to be the only way to upload it without hosting it somewhere else.

[bmdubya1198]

Huh, that's strange. That may be normal, I've never actually watched one of these at idle.

Anyway, it looks like your throttle input signals are pretty smooth. That's good. I really think the ETM may be the problem here. The ETM should be responding to the inputs from the accelerator pedal, and it doesn't look like it is.

[gnalan]

Does anyone have a newer contactless used Volvo ETM they can help me out with? Date code 2013+, that will work on a 2001 S60 NA B5244S? 8644345 is the part number of my original ETM, and I don't know which part numbers are interchangeable. Hopefully that'll get my car drivable again.

[cn90]

I want to clarify things:

- Do you need the ETM or accelerator pedal?

[gnalan]

The ETM.

[cn90]

What happened to the gas pedal issue that we discussed last few days, is it OK and does not need to be replaced?