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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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br0dy519
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Year and Model: 2004 XC70
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by br0dy519 »

Success! I exchanged the caliper slide pin bushings for new because I found some in my spare parts bin. Also cleaned and greased with proper brake lube (green permatex). I noticed they weren’t moving easily this morning with the stiff old bushings and generic red grease. the turned rotors feel very consistent when spinning the wheel now.

All temps are now normal on all my discs using my IR temp gun. Not bad for $45 all in.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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gnalan
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Year and Model: 2001 S60
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Post by gnalan »

Swapped out the Bosch 7401 plugs from RockAuto I installed two years ago for new Beru factory replacement plugs from FCPEuro. Runs a lot better now. My stumble/misfire/lack of power issues seem to be gone now.

Also replaced the plug boots/springs with new ones made by STI. I'm not sure how they expect you to install a sping on the coil, and then onto the spark plug, so hopefully they found their way onto the plugs correctly.
2001 S60, B5244S, AW55-50SN, FWD (Sold)
Cancer/Illness/Caregiver Support Thread

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

When is the point of no return?
:lol:

Resealing to fix my foamy engine oil. Bought this 02 at 150k miles for $1500 (currently at 180k), thankful it strongly passes the glove test with the innards looking like this. I have some cleaning to do!
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Last edited by Krons on 21 May 2022, 08:36, edited 1 time in total.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

Krons wrote: 21 May 2022, 07:06Bought this 02 at 150k for $1500, thankful it strongly passes the glove test with the innards looking like this. I have some cleaning to do!
This looks OK. Don't clean the tower, only the pan. You may also want to inspect and reseal the oil pump, it may have deep some scratches in the pressure relieve valve from the dirt floating in oil. Better replace it in such case.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Tinted all 4 doors yesterday, in a hurry, before the first 96 F heat wave strikes Boston suburbs this weekend. It was a bit windy, lots of tree sap in air, so it can't be perfect. But whatever.

The door glass was tinted by an expensive professional, I didn't like how he did it, so decided to save a few hundred bucks on tinting my "new" laminated glass.

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

vtl wrote: 21 May 2022, 07:23
Krons wrote: 21 May 2022, 07:06Bought this 02 at 150k for $1500, thankful it strongly passes the glove test with the innards looking like this. I have some cleaning to do!
This looks OK. Don't clean the tower, only the pan. You may also want to inspect and reseal the oil pump, it may have deep some scratches in the pressure relieve valve from the dirt floating in oil. Better replace it in such case.
Isn't the pressure relief on the oil pump on the side of the engine by the timing belt? Maybe the next timing belt change I'll tackle that. Hoping to get this buttoned up this weekend.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Krons wrote: 21 May 2022, 08:34 Isn't the pressure relief on the oil pump on the side of the engine by the timing belt? Maybe the next timing belt change I'll tackle that. Hoping to get this buttoned up this weekend.
The pump has to come off. I'll post some pics when get back to computer.

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

vtl wrote: 21 May 2022, 08:52
Krons wrote: 21 May 2022, 08:34 Isn't the pressure relief on the oil pump on the side of the engine by the timing belt? Maybe the next timing belt change I'll tackle that. Hoping to get this buttoned up this weekend.
The pump has to come off. I'll post some pics when get back to computer.
No hurry. I'll get the pan back on and see if my bubbles have gone away. Seals so far have been pretty crusty. If I had a hunch the one for the oil pickup tube to block may have been the one sucking air.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA

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DonnVa
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Post by DonnVa »

I’m taking things apart today to replace my brake booster when in comes in a few days. I tried over three different evenings last week to replace that booster seal and just could not do it. I walked away several times coming up with a new idea or two, crafted special tools to help push it in. It was a no go. I ended up with a sore back and more scratches on my hands and arms that I can count. I did get the old seal back in, but it leaked more than when I started. I’ve pulled off some good stunts replacing my PS rack pinion cap/gear, PS lines, etc, but this one kicked my butt. Oh well…
2005 XC70 Cross Country 2.5T 185k miles
1962 122s 4dr 100k+ TMU
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1996 850 GLT
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

Krons wrote: 21 May 2022, 11:14 No hurry. I'll get the pan back on and see if my bubbles have gone away. Seals so far have been pretty crusty. If I had a hunch the one for the oil pickup tube to block may have been the one sucking air.
That's the best photo of the valve I did:
Image
It has a scratch, but it is not running all through the valve, so I put it back.

To remove the crankshaft sprocket I've used a 3 ton puller in 2 claws configuration and a dime.

Image

Volvo sells pump seal kit:

Image

Check pump's tolerance with straight edge and feeler gauges while it's there on the bench. If the pump is worn too much - buy a new one.

The bolts go all through the tower and must be sealed with a Volvo-expensive compound. Decided to try Loctite 565 and it worked great. No leaks a year after.

Image

Installing seal over crankshaft is PITA, you have to fabricate something to protect the inner lip of the seal while installing it. Don't remember what I've used, some very thin yet rigid enough plastic. That was the most difficult part of the job.

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