Opinions wanted: Do I go through with this repair?

[abscate]

I bought my 2005 in 2014 for 10k and have put 70k on it, now at 150k

It drives like it it did in 2012. I’ve put about $1000 into it in repairs m DIY all, the biggest being a clutch. Figure $3000 if that had been paid work

[scot850]

We have owned our (now son's) 06 XC70 since 2011. It has cost a bit due to a broken rear spring, leaking 4-C adjustable shocks and suspension updates. There has been all regular maintenance done including the failing Haldex pump service and replacement, trans service (the previous owner declined the 80,000km one I found out much later). But most of the stuff has been maintenance. Most we had done at the dealer, although I have also done some stuff like the heater fan motor, suspension work and a few other bits and bobs. Overall it has been so far a good car and with about 64,000 miles only added and now at around 115,000 miles, we have relied on the car and it has served us well. We have have maintained it by the book and so far so good and no plans to sell.

Neil.

[Krons]

Hi guys,

I have a 2005 XC70 with 161,000 miles on it. I have a VVT hub leaking oil and was quote $2000 USD to replace the two hubs, timing belt, water pump, cam shaft seals, and anti-freeze ($600 Labor, $1400 parts). Sadly, the timing belt & water pump were replaced 45,000 miles ago but a new belt is recommended given that it's now coated in oil.

I have a solid maintenance history on the vehicle. Interesting fact: it cost $40,000 USD after tax in 2004 and has had $17,000 in repairs, maintenance, servicing since. Not sure if that's good or bad, but it's interesting.

Other known issues and foreseeable maintenance items include:

- Key tumbler is "sticky"
-Tach spikes during starting. From what I read, this is a grounding issue associated with the transmission that requires a trans. disassemble and cleaning. This is just an annoyance at the moment, and I'm not sure where this could lead
- All strut/springs are original
- All brake calipers are original
- Only one bearing has been replaced in the vehicle's 19 year history so I assume these are coming up

To me the $2000 VVT hub repair seems like a line in the sand for the car: do I cut my losses now or "invest" (I laughed as I typed that). I'm tempted to go through with it because I just bought it in April (for $3300, mind you), but I wouldn't mind a sober 3rd party opinion. Sound off.

Thanks all!!

Don’t leave us hanging, what’s the plan?

[WestCoastWagon]

Thanks everyone. Appointment booked. To be honest, I love the car and deep down I knew I was going to go through with the work before I asked, I just wanted to hear more knowledgeable folks out on if I was being a total fool or not.

You’ve all inspired me to tackle a control arm job myself, so that’s a win.

[Krons]

Thanks everyone. Appointment booked. To be honest, I love the car and deep down I knew I was going to go through with the work before I asked, I just wanted to hear more knowledgeable folks out on if I was being a total fool or not.

You’ve all inspired me to tackle a control arm job myself, so that’s a win.

If you are doing control arms and ball joints (and spending the $100 on an alignment), worth considering doing loaded struts, swaybar links and giving inner and outer tie rods a good look. While it sounds like a lot these pieces are all right there if you have the control arm out.

You can save the subframe bushings for another time lol.

[jonesg]

Thanks everyone. Appointment booked. To be honest, I love the car and deep down I knew I was going to go through with the work before I asked, I just wanted to hear more knowledgeable folks out on if I was being a total fool or not.

You’ve all inspired me to tackle a control arm job myself, so that’s a win.

control arm is not too difficult but physical, you need 2 jackstands and a decent jack.
you'll be saving $600 so you can afford to buy some tools.

special tools needed are an offset 17 mm wrench, large pry bar and the otc control arm hook.
the offset wrench is needed for the inboard bolts the sit inside the frame rail, theres no room for sockets.
$40 total will save you $200 of misery.

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-jum ... 0gQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Offset-Double-Wr ... 4734&psc=1

[vtl]

If you are doing control arms and ball joints (and spending the $100 on an alignment), worth considering doing loaded struts, swaybar links and giving inner and outer tie rods a good look. While it sounds like a lot these pieces are all right there if you have the control arm out.

Buy Trackace for these $100 and you can do toe-in any time for free. Pretty much this is all what you need on a FWD car.

I was pissed off with the results of wheel alignments around my place, even the dealer didn't know how to do it properly (oldfart mechanics are gone, younger ones don't know anything about 15 years old Volvo). And it was like $200. So I got the Trackace and do the alignment myself now.

AWD is much more hassle since I have to get the thrust vector to nearly 0 degrees, and I can't measure that with Trackace, but I learned how to do it by trial (tweak, drive, repeat) and stop the car from pulling to sides, as well as have no tire wear.

I perhaps would need to get a SharkEye for 4x4 alignment.

[dikidera]

I bought my 2005 in 2014 for 10k and have put 70k on it, now at 150k

It drives like it it did in 2012. I’ve put about $1000 into it in repairs m DIY all, the biggest being a clutch. Figure $3000 if that had been paid work

Lucky you.

I bought my 2005 last year. Since then I've:
Replaced headgasket
Machined head
Replaced radiator twice, first one blew up, second one was cracked and mixed atf with coolant.
Replaced all engine mounts and both torque mounts failed at less than 5k km.
New tyres
Used front o2 sensor
One dipstick
Flushed gearbox with 30l of atf and still not fine
Bought new front bumper as mine was pre face-lift on a face-lift model
New battery almost immediately after I bought car
New spring seats
New strut mounts
New strut bearings

The list can and will go on