Path to Restoration Glory for a 1999 V70 N/A

[MarinerMan]

I know that there are other methods. The exterior of the body, and all of the interior places I have exposed so far are rust free. There was a modicum of rust on one of the support brackets that was welded to the front passenger floor pan where the exhaust tunnel went through. It looks like some water go inside and sat until a rust hole appeared from the inside out. I pulled the seat, carpet, and foam to find a hole about 2"x3". I drilled out the spot welds on the piece and had a local shop weld in a new piece of steel, then I sanded, primed, and painted. Did some touch up to the undercoating on the outside, and then welded the bracket back in place. I used weldable zinc primer, then painted it all with three coats, used automotive seam sealer, then undercoated it within an inch of its life, after letting it all dry, cure, and spend a few hours with a hair dryer to remove all moisture from the area.

[BlackBart]

You clearly know what you're doing! Carry on.

[MarinerMan]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I am not great at diagnosing issues, unless there are some pretty solid symptoms, or classic signs. Bearing noise is fairly universal, and I work with them on ships all the time.

The newest unusual thing is that after I replaced my front brake pads, if the steering wheel is anything left of dead center, I get a slight metal-on-metal rotational grinding noise. At first, I thought it was a rock stuck between the dust shield and the rotor, but that would be an all the time item. I checked the spring retainer, and it felt solid. Still trying to figure out what the sound is, and why if I make a right hand turn or anything drifting right(ish), the sound goes away. Any ideas Volvo Hivemind?

[scot850]

Check the dust shields are not rubbing on the rotors. A gentle bend will fix that.

Other issue could be one of the caliper pistons is not retracting. Check they move easily and the boots are not split or jumped out of the piston groove. When did you last replace the rubber flexi-hoses? They may be collapsing internally and not allowing the caliper piston to return to rest position.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[MarinerMan]

Thanks for the checklist boss. The calipers were replaced in 2020. The hoses… are original. 25 years and 152,000 miles. So I ought to replace them sooner or later anyway. I will also check for rubbing on the dust shield. Thank you again.

[BlackBart]

Rotors new? Or is there a rust ridge along the edge that might be just touching the pads.

[MarinerMan]

Well, I pulled the rotors and put them on a lathe and they were quite warped. I swapped out with some new rotors and pads and turned these down as a backup set.
While I had the vehicle up, I did the exhaust job after hemming and hawing about correct methods and parts.
I removed everything. Exhaust manifold had to go, the flex pipe had torn and had an exhaust leak. I was lucky that it had occurred, as my manifold to cat stud nuts had nearly dissolved and the taper didn't even allow for a nut splitter to get purchase. I replaced the CAT with a Davico high content catalytic converter. The part number is 4V018 for anyone wondering. I tried to order the OEM replacement muffler from FCP, but they no longer ship them, and I didn't want to schlep up to CT to get it. I ended up purchasing a walker QuietFlow OEM replacement model (PN #47733) that used the suitcase turbo style muffler design instead of the pass through systems or chamber system. The cat and muffler both had the OEM style 2" ball and socket connectors and the fitment between the two was excellent. The mounting straps off the walker muffler were aligned properly and fit the OEM hangers. However, the tailpipe section hangers were slightly out of alignment to use with the volvo OEM mounting bracket. I had to do some bending to get the alignment in order, and even then the tailpipe sits a bit too high. I think I am going to use one of the exhaust hanger clamps from FCP or IPD to get a better alignment.
I used Genuine Volvo gaskets for the exhaust headers to the block. But instead of the 5 piece, I went with the S40 Reinz (30777495) gasket and did the trim on the sides to match it. Some of the exhaust manifold studs came out when I tried to remove the nuts. They were in acceptable condition, but as this is a Glory project I decided to splurge a bit. Instead of purchasing the Genuine Volvo studs, I got the ARP stud kit. The difference was $13. Seemed like a nice little boost. The exhaust manifold that I used was the DNA Motorsports 304 Stainless Exhaust manifold. Fit and finish were great.
I also used ARP studs to attach the CAT to the flex pipe (In for a penny and all that...)

I had previously lost the OE pipe coming off the cat with the ball and socket end. A muffler shop in Sioux City cut it off and welded a patch pipe to get me on the road, which is why I was replacing the CAT. I haven't had any issues with it, no trouble codes. So I have plugged the two O2 Sensors, and added wooden bungs into the ends and plan to do some rust removal and see what I can do about welding on a new section of exhaust piping to match OE style. However, I am going to put in a flange instead of the pain in the neck ball and socket. So the Cat is waiting with some cast iron pans by the sand blaster until I get a bag of media for that end of the project. I have found a slight leak between the manifold and Cat using the shop vac as a blower method, I am waiting on a less busy day at work to get onto the pier and do a little "on the job training.

The good news is that while I was crawling all under the vehicle, the only rust in the underside was where the bumper brackets mount. I have a new set of those that I plan to attach, so I will remove the rust and coat when I get to that project.

I also installed an intermittent wiper relay harvested from a VW beetle. I was at Harry's U-pull and harvested 12 of the relays figuring that at least one or two would work. Also managed to score two hatch levers. There were two v70s in the yard that had them. I figured I shouldn't let them go to the crusher. That is all the updates from this week. Next week, it goes in for inspection, so I will find out if there is anything else that needs to be addressed that isn't on my restoration list.

[MarinerMan]

Quick update. I installed the new, much, much quieter exhaust system. I am very happy with it in the few short (sub 300 mile) trips that I have put on it. I do not, as of yet (knock on wood), have any issues with the CEL. I hope to remain at a number of 0. I put together a spreadsheet of all the parts that I have purchased to figure out how much I have spent on this lovely vehicle. All the items listed have been installed, minus the trailing arm bushings. I have read all the posts here and on swedespeed about how difficult that project can be, and it has left me a little timid about doing it. I have also a moderate pipe dream about removing the trailing arms entirely and dealing with the corrosion and replacing the brake hose in the middle, as it is original (the caliper hoses have been replaced with new hoses a friend gave me from his 855).

[abscate]

Is Harry’s a relatively easy run for you? There is a running thread on parts wanted that might be able to help out and make a few bucks. Doors, fenders and such are well priced at Harry’s and getting rarer to find

[MarinerMan]

Harry’s is usually pretty good. I am willing to travel wide for self service. Sam’s in Blackwell, MA, Harry’s (all three), recently I have been going to few that even have a fair number of 850s available. And I do love junkyarding.