VADIS provides the adjustment procedure and proper setting for each car. You will find they all come set differently from the factory. I like to check the setting when buying a used car.
Just post which car you have and someone with VADIS will respond. If you set it at the factory setting the cars become lots of fun to drive.
You are setting the minimum boost level the turbo will be running at while the car is running with no gas pedal input. This amount of boost is always on. When you hit the pedal it then boosts up to its psi limit. For example - On some cars that produce 12psi max the wastegate setting is to hold 5 lbs of boost. This means when you accelerate from idle you immediately have 5psi of boost. If you turned it up to its max of 12psi you would have 12psi boost too soon and it would bend rods etc. Even if it doesn't do this the first time it will stress/destroy the engine soon.
As mentioned earlier going over stock setting will do bad things. At the proper setting you get great response , great mileage and great longevity.
Do a stage 0 by checking the turbo control valve's operation (usually not working up to spec), set the cam pulleys properly, replace the plugs, filters ,fluids and set the wastegate. These cars, properly tuned, running on top shelf synthetics are lots of fun.
Modifying the Wastegate actuator rod...
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Modifying Your Wastegate actuator rod: Performance mod on a budget
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fasteddyT5
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 24 November 2008
- Year and Model:
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Hi, I have just finished replacing the CBV diaphragm and wastegate actuator along with all the vacuum lines. I would like to check the current setting of the wastegate. The engine is stock. What is the correct factory setting for a 1998 t5m?
thanks
thanks
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hartmannjoho
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 29 August 2010
- Year and Model: ´95 850 Turbo
- Location: Colombia
Hi all. I just bought a 97 850 GLT wagon, it comes with a stock low pressure turbocharger, I understand it should be set to 1.8 psi (factory setting). Anyway, does anyone know what´s the safe max boost pressure for my car?
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JDS60R
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Cylinder walls will let go slightly above 24 psi. But the concern is the heat ,tune and flow . Call IPD for what they have succeded at with your motor. I believe the LPT can take more in the low rpm but then gives out up top due to flow.
Retired
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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I'm only getting the factory boost gauge in my '96 850R to go halfway into the white. Will checking/tightening the wastegate actuator rod fix this? I've got all new silicone vacuum hoses, so I can't imagine that's the problem.
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JRL
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No.ojdorson wrote:I'm only getting the factory boost gauge in my '96 850R to go halfway into the white. Will checking/tightening the wastegate actuator rod fix this? I've got all new silicone vacuum hoses, so I can't imagine that's the problem.
The boost will come on more quickly (lower RPM) and you MAY get a hair more boost only if it was set too loose, but the correct way is to get a tuned ECU
(or use a MBC, not my favorite way or doing things)
With your year you can go 2 turns (tightening), try it
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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I got a vacuum pump, put 4lbs of pressure and adjusted the wastegate rod - no change. Tightened it 1.5 turns past that - no change. Removed the vacuum hose completely and now the car boosts much more quickly and the gauge gets high enough to overboost and set off the CEL.
SO... turn it some more?
I would like to get an ECU, but I just spent gobs of money on a new head from RSI, S60R Manifold, Ignition Coil Upgrade from MSD/IPD and a bunch of other upgrades while doing that job. Right now, I'd just like the car to boost the way it does with the actuator disconnect without overboosting and setting the CEL.
SO... turn it some more?
I would like to get an ECU, but I just spent gobs of money on a new head from RSI, S60R Manifold, Ignition Coil Upgrade from MSD/IPD and a bunch of other upgrades while doing that job. Right now, I'd just like the car to boost the way it does with the actuator disconnect without overboosting and setting the CEL.
- hanzbe420
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i think i lost control of the boost pressure and just loosened it for safety is there any guidelines i can go by without a gauge? like maybe how many threads in the rod till the nut? should be the same for everyone. what i mean by this is how much thread is showing on the rod from the start of the poll to the nut. lol this probably wont work but w.e


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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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Yours looks fairly short already. Here's where I've got mine set.
Granted, this is a 16T instead of a 15G. The positioning of the actuator looks a bit different.

Granted, this is a 16T instead of a 15G. The positioning of the actuator looks a bit different.

'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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