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Drivers side door stop

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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FASTR1
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 September 2011
Year and Model: s70 2000
Location: florida

Re: Drivers side door stop

Post by FASTR1 »

no way

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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

I have not had the "A" pillar issue, but my driver's side door check did go south again. I replaced the part last weekend in about 1/2 hr. The actual door check in mine had broken in half with the lower portion of the plate containing the studs that accept the 10MM nuts on the door having broken clean off. In fact, the lower portion of the plate fell down into the inside of the door when I was removing the door check. I also noticed that the metal in the door near where the check bolts up was split through. Looked awfully thin for a potential stress point.
Last edited by E Showell on 03 Jun 2012, 10:06, edited 1 time in total.
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FASTR1
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 September 2011
Year and Model: s70 2000
Location: florida

Post by FASTR1 »

I can say that with the proper tools and mig welder that this repair is not all that difficult, however I did my newly purchased s70's and the way Volvo has done things is great again, to pull the door to gain access is so simple, a tiny torx screw to release the lock on the multiwire plug for the door, a quarter turn of the plug disconnects it, then two external torx bolts that hold the door to the hinge pins, then the door catch bolts if it is not already broken, mine was and a friend and the door lifts right off, heavy though. I taped up all areas of concern for spark and fire damage used other material to shield the dash area, pulled the rubber door seals loose. and had at it. The metal is thin and if there are gaps it is more difficult to do, and cleaning the paint is a must for a proper repair. Using a hand held sandblaster is the easiest and have done this many times on Jeep Cherokees for door hinges that tear. Once the weld is complete any pin holes left I use body seam sealer or grey rtv to smooth coat, then paint to match with spray touch up. On my car unless I alert you to it , is almost not recognizable.

Not a job for someone that does not have any prior welding skills!

Faust
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Post by Faust »

Someplace in this thread I posted pictures of welding it up with a mig. With two guys (to aid lifting and refitting) it took about 1/2 an hour.
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lookforjoe
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Post by lookforjoe »

I've seen this issue many times.
It's amazing how many responders didn't READ the OP's post & just suggested replacing the door stop.

Removing the entire door is very simple, as already described. Welding the seam is a permanent repair. Normal welding precautions are all that is required to prevent wiring damage.

I would however like to see pics of the nut/bolt repair from the aussie mentioned. If I can find them, I will add them to this thread.

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