plan for in-car valve stem seals replacement

Post by **div4scpro** » 28 Jul 2010, 19:32

question for Whoa or anyone with experience. blew it when one valve dropped into the cylinder. head is now off and the problem seems to be how to get the valve stem seals off without scarring anything, those boys are really stuck on there, and my head is clean with very little carbon otherwise. any suggestions.

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 28 Jul 2010, 19:58

Rats about that valve! I definitely did not have a problem getting the seals off... I used valve stem seal pliers as you see in the write-up, gave a little twist and it really took very little force at all.

Quicken · Post by **Quicken** » 16 Oct 2010, 14:25

Thank you so much for the whole write up about replacing the valve stem seals. I have a question, i own a 96 850 GLE non-turbo and same problem if i leave the car at park and then shift to forwarD, a puff of blue smoke comes out, the engine also eats a lot of engine oil, during my last oil change the guys told me i had like 2L left in the engine, which explains why my low engine pressure light occassionaly comes on when i am climbing a hill. I have brought it to a volvo dealership and they told me it's the piston rings that are bad and that will probably cost me about the same as if i sold the car at this moment. I am wondering how would you distinguish between piston ring caused blue smoke to valve steam seals caused blue smoke? The car seemed to be fine during driving, so no constant smoke there, only if i idle for like 5 min and drive again, then a puff of blue smoke comes out. Thank you so much for you help, hope to hear from you soon. I am hoping replacing the seals would be cheaper than getting a new engine.

Cheers

Dave

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 16 Oct 2010, 14:58

The rings would not explain the blue puff after idling---you'd expect blue smoke constantly, more when, say climbing a hill. Valve seals/guides when worn let oil into the intake passages and then when you rev or start up it gets sucked into the pistons, burns, and then the smoke goes away or reduces.

The classic way to tell if piston rings are bad: you get low compression readings that improve when you put a spoonful of oil in the cylinder. That's an easy test to run, so I'm guessing the dealer did that?

Anyway, I had the puff-after-idle, my compression was fine and didn't increase much wet. After replacing the valve seals the puff is completely gone (this is 9K miles later now) and the oil burning is way down (that's a little hard to tell because I also have a RMS leak, but the leak is no better and I'm using much less oil).

Quicken · Post by **Quicken** » 16 Oct 2010, 15:26

Hi Whoa

Thank you for the post, frankly I am not sure what these service guy did, and I really am a little bit skeptical about their diagnosis, I know we shouldn't judge people on 1 mistake, but they didn't diagnose my starter problem for weeks and costing hundreds of dollars a couple of years ago. That problem only got resolved when I brought my car to an old mechanic and he changed my starter for 70 bucks and that fixed everything. They said they are suspecting my piston ring is bad because of the engine oil consumption and the puff of blue smoke. Never mentioned about the valve stem seals....I will ask them on monday if they had done compression readings and probably enquire about the vavle stem seals replacement costs....

Thanks again for the clarification, really appreciated it.

Dave

Quicken · Post by **Quicken** » 17 Oct 2010, 13:20

Actually Can I ask a quick question, Valve Guide seals and Valve stem seals, what are their differences? On the inspection report b/c of the blue smoke thingy and the burning of oil, only 2L left, they mechanic wrote "only 2L of oil drained. suspect rings and valve guide seals - requires motor overhaul or replacement" I do oil change every 5000kms and they put in valve medic to try and help...but now i am a little confused guide seal and stem seals? are they actually the same thing?

Quicken · Post by **Quicken** » 18 Oct 2010, 12:54

Yep, just confirmed with volvo they are the same thing...except volvo mechanic here is quoting me Cad $4000 to replace those seals...$%#^@ Not really sure how to make of that, I am thinking they just don't want to do it and basically throws out a nasty price to throw me off. I am looking around to see if anyone else can do it for cheaper...If anyone knows a good mechanic around Vancouver Canada please let me know.

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 19 Oct 2010, 11:41

Knowing how to and having done the on-head valve stem seal job, I would do them all day long for $800 a shot. That having been said, not all mechanics are going to be versed in this technique. Where are you?

Quicken · Post by **Quicken** » 21 Oct 2010, 18:05

um...Vancouver Canada? I live near Boundry and 49th...you replace these valve stem seals, oem blue quality?

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 22 Oct 2010, 09:28

Connecticut, sorry. Beautiful place you live in.

plan for in-car valve stem seals replacement

Re: plan for in-car valve stem seals replacement