Timing Mark alignment and adjustment
Re: Timing Mark alignment and adjustment
it did help but i removed the head and cleaned everything up and some of the marks got dissolved.
Doing the timing belt without the cam gear lock is a pain in the ass. What ended up working for me (without using the gear lock):
align crank timing mark (it shouldn't have moved, it takes a lot of rotational force to move it)
align intake and exhaust cams, but be fully prepared for the *$)# exhaust cam to spin backwards... don't worry
put belt around crank gear
thread belt around tensioner and idler
pull tight on belt to get it to line up on forward face of intake cam. it will probably not mate... don't worry
put wrench on intake bolt, turn cam clockwise a little bit to get the teeth to mesh
turn CCW to line intake cam marks back up and pull slack from front of timing belt
do same thing with exhaust cam but make sure someone keeps a finger on the intake cam so the *$#) belt doesn't slip off
double check marks
pull tensioner pin
pray
turn crank by hand and do victory dance when marks align properly
the biggest pain in the ass is how the timing marks are almost impossible to see on the crank/block and how the cam marks dont' really 100% line up. you will absolutely see being one tooth off if you mess up - fortunately there isn't any interference at 1 tooth.
it took us 3 hours to get the timing belt on and properly lined up.
align crank timing mark (it shouldn't have moved, it takes a lot of rotational force to move it)
align intake and exhaust cams, but be fully prepared for the *$)# exhaust cam to spin backwards... don't worry
put belt around crank gear
thread belt around tensioner and idler
pull tight on belt to get it to line up on forward face of intake cam. it will probably not mate... don't worry
put wrench on intake bolt, turn cam clockwise a little bit to get the teeth to mesh
turn CCW to line intake cam marks back up and pull slack from front of timing belt
do same thing with exhaust cam but make sure someone keeps a finger on the intake cam so the *$#) belt doesn't slip off
double check marks
pull tensioner pin
pray
turn crank by hand and do victory dance when marks align properly
the biggest pain in the ass is how the timing marks are almost impossible to see on the crank/block and how the cam marks dont' really 100% line up. you will absolutely see being one tooth off if you mess up - fortunately there isn't any interference at 1 tooth.
it took us 3 hours to get the timing belt on and properly lined up.
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tridents65
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 31 March 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850, 2006 S-804
- Location: Blue Springs MO
I'm going to ask a dumb question here. If you use the cam gear lock, install it before the old belt is removed and you do not turn the crank, what difference does it make where the timing marks are (if they are not moved)? Wouldn't you just be pulling off the old belt and installing the new one with the crank and the cam pulleys never changing position? I'm getting ready to start this project myself and figure I only get one shot at it, so I'm reading all I can ahead of the big day.
1965 Chevy C-10
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
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This strategy will work, but if for whatever reason you move the crank or cams, you won't know where to put them back. Just why not be safer.
It doesn't need to be that hard to find the miniscule mark on the crank, just line up your cam gears get a nice strong flashlight and look down, it is hard to see but it is there.
It doesn't need to be that hard to find the miniscule mark on the crank, just line up your cam gears get a nice strong flashlight and look down, it is hard to see but it is there.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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tridents65
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 31 March 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850, 2006 S-804
- Location: Blue Springs MO
ok. now I get it. A little more courage and I'm off to the garage (next week-end). I ordered and have all the parts, now I just need the time.
1965 Chevy C-10
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
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petek153
- Posts: 141
- Joined: 27 May 2006
- Year and Model: 1992 940T
- Location: connecticut
- Been thanked: 1 time
Ok just did the timing belt and idlers on my 95 850, the intake cam is aligned with the crank but the exhaust looks like its off. The car has 145k on it and you can tell that it was done once due to the marks on cams but who ever did it cut the cover that you use for timing alignment and the cams were just marked in a random spot to the cover. The cams align with these marks but if the cover was replaced I believe the scribe mark would be off. I used the IPD cam tool so I know it didn't move. My question is should I try moving it 1 tooth or just accept who ever did the first belt change marked the cams properly? It seems to run fine so not sure if I should mess with it. Before timing belt change have code P0133 slow response 02 sensor Bank 1 replaced sensor but continues to be a problem traced all vac lines all seem ok would the timing being off a tooth trigger this code?
92 940 turbo
93 850 GLT sold
94 850 GLT
95 850 GLT
96 850 GLT my parts car (:
96 850 T_BONED ):
97 850 BASE
93 850 GLT sold
94 850 GLT
95 850 GLT
96 850 GLT my parts car (:
96 850 T_BONED ):
97 850 BASE
I was going to look around today to see what's going on with my belt issue etc, my thread is named "my disaster" if you care to look. Now I'm worried I can't even do anything without some special tool.VolvoTurbo850 wrote:I use electrical twist ties to lock the cams together... hows that for a budget fix?
What should I do about that whole locking the cams deal?
What if someones belt breaks or walks off the gears? wouldn't that already be bad enough where they're already out of alignment? And tool isn't necessary at that point? I don't know.
Thanks
if you are replacing tensioner, water pump, etc. raising engine by loosening R motor mount can give you a little more room as can taking the plastic off the computer box. I did not use cam lock and did take plugs out to make it easier to move with new belt on.tridents65 wrote:ok. now I get it. A little more courage and I'm off to the garage (next week-end). I ordered and have all the parts, now I just need the time.
99 V70XC 158K
95 850glt 188K
95 850glt 188K
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
For your car, correct you don't need the lock tool at this point. You need toLamboSE5 wrote:I was going to look around today to see what's going on with my belt issue etc, my thread is named "my disaster" if you care to look. Now I'm worried I can't even do anything without some special tool.VolvoTurbo850 wrote:I use electrical twist ties to lock the cams together... hows that for a budget fix?
What should I do about that whole locking the cams deal?
What if someones belt breaks or walks off the gears? wouldn't that already be bad enough where they're already out of alignment? And tool isn't necessary at that point? I don't know.
Thanks
(1) pull the plugs
(2) put the crank on the timing mark by turning it clockwise. Be careful there is no valve-piston contact when you are turning it.
(3) you can now move the cams without danger. Put them on their marks.
(4) do a timing belt job
(5) see if the car runs, if there is compression.
You might want to read the DIYs on timing belt change, this stuff will then make more sense.
If you end up pulling the head you could use a locking tool but there is no real advantage to it.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
Thanks man, going to pull the plugs now. I'm waiting on a friend with a little more experience than I (not saying much really. lol)
About your #(2) how do I be careful there is no valve-piston contact when I'm turning it? Or do you just mean listen to see if there is?
About your #(2) how do I be careful there is no valve-piston contact when I'm turning it? Or do you just mean listen to see if there is?
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