DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)

[Xilikon]

I have done the brake hoses overhaul on my 2000 V70 XC and here's some notes :

-On a AWD car, the rear hoses isn't routed the same way as indicated in the tutorial. Actually, each rear hose was connected to the metal line just below the rear passenger door (corner of the wheel well) with no pipe/hose getting across the rear axle. This is because the differential and driveshaft was in the way for the normal way. It's actually much simpler that way but the rear driver side pipe nut was locked on the pipe so I had to install the hose on this first then screw the caliper side with the caliped removed (so I can turn it and avoid twisting the hose).
-If your car was run in a climate where there are a lot of salt on the road/air, be ready to change the holding clips which is placed between the pipe and hose (it served to hold the hose tight against the support). Buy 4 new ones for cheap and do it while you change the hose.
-Be sure to have a PB Blaster can on hand before starting the job. It's a life saver on seized hoses/pipe nuts.

I didn't do the calipers yet since this will be done in the spring along with new front rotors and pads. The calipers was all changed less than 2 years ago so it could survive the winter first.

[cn90]

One thing I have learned that:

1. Spray WD-40 (or PB Blaster etc.) way ahead of time when dealing with rusty nuts/bolts, whether it is suspension or brake hoses.
If you plan to replace brake hoses on a Saturday, start spraying WD-40 (or PB Blaster) on a Monday!
Spray all locations that you will work on:
- Metal Line ---> Hose junction
- Hose ---> Caliper junction (Front)
- Metal Line ---> Caliper junction (Rear)

It is NOT the type of lubricant you use (WD-40 vs PB Blaster), but it is the time (one week) you allow the lubricant to soak into the rusty areas.
Very often people spray WD-40 or PB Blaster at the last minute and expect it to work: sometimes it works but very often you need to sit and wait!

2. As already mentioned above in the DIY, a propane torch ($10) will save your day if the nut refuses to come out.

[gregandterra]

Nice write up on the job. I just had a front caliper freeze up (failed boot, rusty piston) on my 99 XC. Lucked out and smelled hot brake dust smell before overheating rotor. I pulled the caliper, checked run out on rotor. Thankfully no warpage.
Purchased a remanufactured caliper from OReillys and had the next morning for only $39.99. The unit is an original Volvo part, with new piston, bleeder valve, and mounting bolts/caps. Was cleaned and primed, went ahead and painted with caliper paint I had bought for future project. For the price, I will purchase this way instead of spending time and trouble to overhaul an old unit. Also gave me time to clean and inspect all the other suspension parts while waiting. I will be replacing the other side soon.

99 XC
2003 Ranger Edge 4.0
69 Mustang 302
Multiple Harleys

[cn90]

I need to update this thread re "Vise-Grip 7LW Locking Wrench With Wire Cutter", about $12 on amazon.com.
Someone in this forum recommended this tool to me and it certainly saved the day.

My 98 V70 was totaled, so I acquired a 98 S70 GLT with 147K.
Guess what, from reviewing P.O.'s old service records, the Volvo dealer changed the brake pads but failed to see that the front brake hoses were cracked!

Anyway, I ordered new FTE (OEM) front hoses, about $11 at rmeuropean.com.
The rear hoses are still OK, and I left them alone, plus they are so difficult to replace anyway (tight space!).

Even with PB Blaster, Propane heat, the 10-mm nut was rounded.
Luckily I had this "Vise-Grip 7LW Locking Wrench With Wire Cutter". This tool is worth every penny.

So, don't even start replacing brake hose until you have heat (Propane Torch) and THIS TOOL:

visegrip.JPG (76.56 KiB) Viewed 2598 times

[xHeart]

I have all four guide pins exposed, could I use Scantech caliper repair kit for replacement?
Or, is local O'reilly good enough?

caliper guide pin exposed

[98T5]

I can't imagine how hard you guys that live in wintry salty areas can deal with seized nuts. I was repairing my wheel hub assembly last week and hit one of the nuts on my brake lines just to see if it would budge and it just loosened up so fast I couldn't believe it. so I'm hoping the rest of the nuts on my car are this easy. this car has spent it's entire life in Texas and I'm the 2nd owner. *fingers crossed* I'm sitting hear gazing at the braided brake lines right now as we speak.

Saldy my photoshop is down so posting pics of my last few jobs that I took pics for (wheels hub assembly on my V70, O2 sensor replacement and A/C unit repair and on my 940, front/back brake pad replacement on both cras) all won't be seen until I can get my photoshop back online somehow. I'm still taking the pics though.

[abscate]

The nastiest bolt I've found on the brake jobs is the Phillips screw holding on the rotor. They get nasty rusted in place. All they do is locate the rotor in place, thy have no holding power of consequence so in salty areas a lot of people leave them off. I treat them with Never Seize then just finger tighten with the Phillips and haven't had to impact wrench them out for a few years.

[98T5]

Just put in the braided brakes lines today. only needed to put in the front since they were cracked toast, but the back hoses were practically brand new rubber ones.. I remember taking it to the shop for a rear disc brake job so I guess I had those hoses done then. I checked them thoroughly and no cracks, no binds, no nothing. And I haven't bled the system yet since it's getting dark outside and I want full sun when I do it. so first thing in the morning I will bleed the system and take it for a spin.

So for the record I have braided brakes lines on the front and the volvo rubber ones on the back.

I should be good right?

[cn90]

Update on my other car 1998 S70 GLT with 160K miles.

- Car pulls to the right even after an alignment. Turned out the RF brake caliper is seized. It has been going on for a few months b/c the brake pads wear down to 2-3 mm on the seized side (RF), but the LF caliper is still good with 8-9 mm.

- Somehow the protective rubber boot OUTER Lip is out of the groove.

- For RF seized caliper, got a rebuilt caliper from local Napa for $45.

- The "good side", i.e. LF caliper, I rebuilt it anyway using ATE seal kit as written in this thread.
During the rebuilt, I got "lazy" and did not want to run the air compressor, so:
* Clamped the brake hose (used card board as cushion).
* Open the bleed valve a bit, grabbed the foot pump that my kids use to pump basketballs.
* A few foot pumps later, the brake piston come out nicely.

- Installed new TEXTAR brake pads, all is good now.

The morale of the story: not all alignment problems come from worn tierod, suspension issues, sometimes it is a seized caliper!!!

VolvoSeizedCaliper01.JPG (96.24 KiB) Viewed 2486 times

VolvoSeizedCaliper02.JPG (119.29 KiB) Viewed 2486 times

VolvoSeizedCaliper03.JPG (161.59 KiB) Viewed 2486 times

[oragex]

The most important thing is to replace the front flexible lines, they crack and sure will blow off (it happened once when I did a moderate braking on the highway, luckily the hand brake was working). Replace both front ones.

To keep the oil from leaking once a line is disconnected, prepare something like a small piece of eraser and insert it to stop the leaking. I much prefer this instead a clamping a rubber hose.

When greasing caliper pins, also remove the sliding rubbers, shim off the rust underneath and put some silicone grease. The rust thickens and restricts the pin from sliding freely.

Don't forget to grease the caliper sliding pins every 3 years with silicone grease.