Man am I having a heck of a time getting off the 36mm nut

[wheelsup]

Thanks,
Was just wondering that when I get new axles if I need new nuts or that the outside dia. doesn't matter..
Hope you are successful in your adventure.

You need new nuts because you have to stake them. You could probably get away with reusing the old ones but we might replace an axle once in our cars lifetime (if using a quality axle), so I would err on the side of "doing it right".

[obayha]

Thanks Wheelsup.. New nuts added to list for axle replacement. They may come with the new axles anyway. Didn't know they were staked.
Well I just went out and looked at my nuts and they are not staked. No grove in the threads like in you picture. Maybe aftermarket parts. I don't know the history of replacement parts.
I see you be another N.C. person on here.
Shane

[rmmagow]

I sort of remember laying the pie/breaker bar on the ground then using the car itself to break the axle nut. I did have the bar on a heavy piece of wood. This was on a Subaru but axle nuts are axle nuts.

[wheelsup]

Thanks Wheelsup.. New nuts added to list for axle replacement. They may come with the new axles anyway. Didn't know they were staked.
Well I just went out and looked at my nuts and they are not staked. No grove in the threads like in you picture. Maybe aftermarket parts. I don't know the history of replacement parts.
I see you be another N.C. person on here.
Shane

Hmm that's weird, maybe they are aftermarket or maybe Volvo stopped doing it? That pic is from my 95.

Where are you in NC?

[Nevada1906]

This is how I did it.

Pull the wheel and jam a screwdriver into the brake rotor fins so that it when the wheel rotates, it hits the caliper bracket. Then use a floor jack under the end of the breaker bar and PUMP IT UP.

Mine broke free in five seconds.

[obayha]

Hmm that's weird, maybe they are aftermarket or maybe Volvo stopped doing it? That pic is from my 95.

Where are you in NC?[/quote]

I live in Salisbury , Heading to Chapel Hill and Cary this weekend.
I'm thinking aftermarket and could be the reason for 30mm not 36mm.
Still no post as to weather or not the nut has been removed.
What was/is the reason for the removal?

[precopster]

Nevada 1906 wrote:
"Pull the wheel and jam a screwdriver into the brake rotor fins so that it when the wheel rotates, it hits the caliper bracket. Then use a floor jack under the end of the breaker bar and PUMP IT UP.
Mine broke free in five seconds."

Love this method, thanks for the tip will use it next time around.

The 99s and over have a simple 14mm long bolt with huge washer going through and into the CV stub. Much easier.

[SpeedyPete]

I used a Makita electric 1/2 in impact gun on mine with great ease and success! There is also a hand impact socket designed for use with a breaker bar. While under pressure from the breaker bar you hit it with a big hammer. They work well also. I would stay away from Big Cheater Pipes if you like your tools. Get the right tool for the job. Safety First, Frustration Not! Best Regards, SpeedyPete

[matthew1]

Went to a "Brakes Plus" today, informally paid the mechanic $10 to break it loose. Took him 3 seconds with a 3/4" air wrench. Then he torqued it back on to 160lb/ft. and I went home.

Last night. Nobody else was around. This was very dangerous.

36mm-wheel-nut.jpg (65.98 KiB) Viewed 1623 times

What an ordeal. Real tools = real time savings. I bought a large pipe that fits over the breaker bar today and a propane torch. Not that those are substitutes for real tools, but they would have saved me hours.

Matt, no stake, no pin. Just nut. I thought of that and reverse threading before all my toil. At least I got the "think first, act second" part right.

[wheelsup]

I'm just impressed that 60 year old breaker bar took it like a champ. Love old tools, I try to hit estate sales whenever I can. I picked up a few -V- Craftsman stuff the last time around, two ratchets that had oil holes I'm guessing mid 60's and a breaker bar that feels a lot stouter than the stuff they sell nowadays.