First Time Brake Bleeding

[JDS60R]

Clamping done correctly (with a proper line clamp) will not damage the hose in any way.

Clamping off the line is needed to stop the fluids natural tendency to follow the rules of physics. The fluid will flow out due to gravity's effect on the fluid being stronger than the surface tension between the fluid and the line. The fittings are lower than the MC and the fluid will drain over time.

[cn90]

I understand that mfg's (Honda, Toyota, Volvo etc. etc.) specify sequence of bleeding etc. I have followed them over the years.

However, to be honest with you guys, there were times that I did not have the technical book, so I simply bled the brake in an "X" pattern and have never had any issues at all.

the reason for the "X" pattern (RF <---> LR and LF <---> RR) is that many cars out there have this design. The brake circuit is diagonal in case there is leak in one circuit, then you still have braking effect in the other circuit in a diagonal manner. Basically a safety design.

[LamboSE5]

Clamping done correctly (with a proper line clamp) will not damage the hose in any way.

Clamping off the line is needed to stop the fluids natural tendency to follow the rules of physics. The fluid will flow out due to gravity's effect on the fluid being stronger than the surface tension between the fluid and the line. The fittings are lower than the MC and the fluid will drain over time.

And indeed it did (drain) as I hurried to swap one caliper and then one line from one car in the air to another. The res's never got below min though. I made sure I kept an eye on that.

I then used the tecnique described (bottle) to bleed. It seemed to go fine. Except next time I'll use a shorter clear tube, as all the fluid in the tube afterwards had to be discarded and it was a waste.

Note, I'd prefer any job to do with with the exterior parts (engine, brakes, suspension, hell even paint and maybe body) than the difficult interior trim stuff - I mean like door locks and window regulators! And that's saying something. Cause I had to heat and 'cool' the brake fittings, spray penetrating oil, and repeat so many times. I'd still rather that kind of patience than the "careful, caaareful...patience-careful - oh-it-snapped" type of interior stuff (which I've done really well with in all honesty). Or the "it's just not meant to come out!!!" work of door locks and regulators etc.
Lil rant there.



Thanks for all the helpful input on bleeding and stuff. I learned a lot doing the caliper(s) and lines, and the one bleeding I did.

[Jono51]

I believe there is a wheel order to do. LF, RF, LR, RR.

That is the correct sequence...
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... bs-brakes/

should I just put the bottle on the ground. I would require less new brake fluid (shorter tubing). And really, I think the bubbles will still be pushed out - but I dunno.

The bottle should be at or higher than the bleeder valve so that no air would escape back into it.

1) The backwards sequence is only for 1987 and prior years with ABS. The normal RR, LR, RF, LF sequence is for all other Volvos. Since your car is well past 1987, use the normal sequence.
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/ ... html#Brake Bleeding Sequences

I've actually never noticed that bleeding order makes much difference in practice, but for what it's worth the Haynes manual for 96 to 99 70 series cars says do the back ones first in either order, then RF then LF. That's what I've done and it seems to work fine.

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