1996 Volvo 850 GLT overheating MVSolved, bad new part

[npharper]

I send an email to FCP last night, detailing the problems and the tests I've done to check the relay. They called me back today, and they think the relay they sent might be bad, so they're sending a replacement. For now the fan is hooked up to the battery, with a switch and a fuse, so that I can make the commute to work and back. Seems to be working fine. I'll post an update on whether the new relay fixes the problem.

[npharper]

Update: I got the second replacement relay from FCP today, and...it works! Hooray! So they sent me a bad relay the first time, after all. Wish I hadn't paid for the rush shipping the first time.

Anyway, for anybody who might be interested, here's a link to my companion thread at volvoforums: http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... ing-63679/

And a link to a pictured tutorial on how to replace the relay: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=37034

[MoVolvos]

Update: I got the second replacement relay from FCP today, and...it works! Hooray! So they sent me a bad relay the first time, after all. Wish I hadn't paid for the rush shipping the first time.

Anyway, for anybody who might be interested, here's a link to my companion thread at volvoforums: http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... ing-63679/

And a link to a pictured tutorial on how to replace the relay: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=37034

Been following your post and rejoice with you!!!! That is quite a few days. It is one thing to take a long time to work on something but another not know if you'll ever get it figured out. Thanks.

Blessings,
BKM
-

[precopster]

Good to see it got sorted. You aren't the first KAE fan relay user to sing a tale of woes.

Generally they're not well regarded (though I took the risk myself and so far so good)

[rspi]

The needle position on the temp guage b/w warm (85deg C and 105deg C) is only a smidgen above middle. Volvo did a really bad calibration on these guages.

I disagree with this statement. The gauge is set to let you know the "normal operating range". If the motor is under 175 degrees, it's considered cold and will likely cause the car to run rich. If the car is above 230, it's considered getting pretty warm and near hot, so the gauge will begin to rise above the middle mark. If the temp is between 175 and 220, the gauge is locked at the 3 o'clock position, letting you know that the motor is within it's normal operating temperature. If the gauge moved every time you got on the freeway (where it would likely be 190deg F) or everytime you got stuck in some traffic (where it would likely be 215deg F) everyone that owns a car would call the dealer at least once.

So, I think it's great the way it is. If you find the needle low, find out why, if you find the needle high find out why.

@ Nick: Very happy for you. Our head is severly warpped from it overheating just once. The head is at the shop, they are trying to straighten it out.

[precopster]

I disagree with this statement. If the temp is between 175 and 220, the gauge is locked at the 3 o'clock position, letting you know that the motor is within it's normal operating temperature

175F or 79C is a smidgen too cold to be at halfway in my opinion, (it's 19F or 11C under thermostat opening temp) though I haven't hooked up the scanner to see exactly where the needle is at this temp.

I just recall 85C to 105C (that's 185F to 221F) having no movement and thinking that's strange; how is one to know how hot this thing really is?

[rspi]

I drive around all the time with my scan gauge hooked up. One of the displays I show is the temp gauge.

[jvb]

hi np harper i was reading your post about your volvo overheating i have the same car doing the same thing. i was just wondering if you ended up working the problem out?

[abscate]

Old thread alert

Up above, the problem was found to be a bad new part, the relay.