Who has turned rotors?

[MoVolvos]

Warped rotors is a myth.

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Turned a few rotors on the machines and you can see and hear warped rotors. Acura and Honda suspension tolerance are very high so they can't tolerate aftermarket Rotors. Can't speak for high performance rotors but have not found one Standard rotor that has not warps on passenger cars. After many tries only use Honda Rotors and Pads.

Blessings,
BKM
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[1997volvo850]

This topic couldn't have come at a better time. My rear rotors are rusted pretty good and the rotor surface is pitted.
They've been like this for many years and since there has been no problem stopping and no vibration I've been slapping
new pads on every so often. I can't remember ever changing the rear rotors so these rotors have been on for several years.

Recently the brakes have started making a grinding noise which I'm attributing to the pitted rotor surface. The noise
only occurs during braking. I decided to replace the rotors with a set of OEM rotors I've had sitting around waiting for
these rusted rotors to warp. They still haven't warped.

So I removed the rusted right rear rotor and it seems like it still had quite a bit of thickness left. When I compared to the new
rotor they appeared very similar. The new rotor measured 0.39 inches and the rusted rotor measured 0.38. Very close.

After so many years I was expecting the rotor to be much thinner. The Haynes manual gives the wear limit at .331 so
I believe I still have some life in these rotors and am thinking to turn them. How much does turning remove from the
rotor?

Someone earlier mentioned $10 to turn rotors at O'Reillys. We don't have them in this area so I'm wondering if places
like Pep Boys or Napa do this? Other recommendations?

Thanks

[erikv11]

Napa should offer rotor turning service, most auto parts stores do. I'd give them a call. Definitely turn them, they still have plenty of life left. Turning removes a few hundredths, like maybe .02 from each side. But they can tell you that on the phone, ask them. And they will of course measure the rotors themselves before turning, hopefully they measure out the same numbers you saw.

[1997volvo850]

Update...

I took one rotor to a local PB shop and they refused to turn them saying there would be nothing left when they were done.
I was a little surprised given the thickness .38 (close to my new OEM rotors) but I guess the rust and pitting was too much.
They immediately offered me after-market rotors for $35 each which started me thinking...the rotor are not warped...and
there appears to be a lot of brake pad material on the rotor...seems a thin turning would bring them back to life...but I'm
not experienced enough...

For now I'm installing the new OEM rotors I've had sitting on the shelf for a year or so.

[cn90]

Buy a micrometer and measure the rotor thickness yourself.

I think the shop did not want to turn your rotor b/c they want to sell you a new rotor LOL.

[MoVolvos]

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When measuring the Rotors with the Mic measure up and down the surface to see if the thickness is the same. You can have uneven wear and the car will still stop smooth if it is not warped. Go to a Local Parts Supply or other Big Box Parts Store and see what they say. Pepboys is very conservative when it comes to repairs and always err on the side of up selling. I worked at Pepboys in the Mid 90's. A local repair shop should be able to tell you also as measuring should be free.

Blessings,
BKM
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[rmmagow]

Me personally, I've never had much luck turning rotors, drums, yeah, but rotors always acted up soon afterwards. I can go through 3 to 4 sets of pads before replacing the rotors on most of my cars. My MB diesel had frozen rear brakes and I did rotors, calipers and hoses to fix that. Still had a grinding sensation and threw on a set of new front rotors I had and all is peaceful now. My V70 is going to need rear pads in the spring and I am planning to just do a quick mic of the rotor and put in new pads. I am a little surprised how expensive rotors are for the Volvo. My other cars run around 30 bucks or so each.
FWIW, I have always done the gentle break-in rather than the hard stop method. No noise generally and that RTV like stuff works great.