Then grease the edge during insertion, go SLOW to be sure it is not caught anywhere.
Check the BORE side (Engine Side) to be sure it is smooth.
- oil_pump_oring.jpg (28.8 KiB) Viewed 1726 times
93 850 Oil pump leak... I'm out of ideas [SOLVED]
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cn90
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Re: 93 850 Oil pump leak... I'm out of ideas
The Black O-ring, just make sure it is seated all around.
Then grease the edge during insertion, go SLOW to be sure it is not caught anywhere.
Check the BORE side (Engine Side) to be sure it is smooth.
Then grease the edge during insertion, go SLOW to be sure it is not caught anywhere.
Check the BORE side (Engine Side) to be sure it is smooth.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
Interesting ... this looks like a perfect fit.
The last one I received (not the one in the mail today) was larger and somewhat loose.
No wonder it sliced off.
Hopefully the one I receive today will be snug like this one.
The last one I received (not the one in the mail today) was larger and somewhat loose.
No wonder it sliced off.
Hopefully the one I receive today will be snug like this one.
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cn90
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
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I am not sure where you got previous seal kit from but, PN 271439 is only $20 at local dealer.
For seals, gaskets, I always get them from dealer (where it is Honda, BMW or Volvo etc.) b/c:
1. They are inexpensive.
2. They always fit like factory.
3. Any seal job requires tons of time/labor, so even paying $5-$10 more at dealer, it is worth every penny.
http://thevpstore.com/parts/index.cfm?s ... eid=216778
Believe it or not, sometimes the pricing at local Volvo dealer is way better than some online prices. Also, you don't have to pay for shipping charge if you buy from local Volvo dealer.
For seals, gaskets, I always get them from dealer (where it is Honda, BMW or Volvo etc.) b/c:
1. They are inexpensive.
2. They always fit like factory.
3. Any seal job requires tons of time/labor, so even paying $5-$10 more at dealer, it is worth every penny.
http://thevpstore.com/parts/index.cfm?s ... eid=216778
Believe it or not, sometimes the pricing at local Volvo dealer is way better than some online prices. Also, you don't have to pay for shipping charge if you buy from local Volvo dealer.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
The dealer was going to take 7 - 10 business days to get it.
FCP took 2 days. It's showing as OEM Volvo on the sealed packaging and the website.
But it is good to have another website for parts, as well as for non time sensitive jobs to know the volvo dealer is competitive with his prices.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... kit-271439
But I for sure had an extra inch on the O ring on the last set I got.
I'll see if I can find the wrapper, so I can double check I received the right one the first time.
Just in case, I also ordered the http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-e ... inz-981204
FCP took 2 days. It's showing as OEM Volvo on the sealed packaging and the website.
But it is good to have another website for parts, as well as for non time sensitive jobs to know the volvo dealer is competitive with his prices.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... kit-271439
But I for sure had an extra inch on the O ring on the last set I got.
I'll see if I can find the wrapper, so I can double check I received the right one the first time.
Just in case, I also ordered the http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-e ... inz-981204
The parts are in, and at first glance this looks much better.
The last time I ordered this set the box looked in bad shape, and I recall the O ring being larger than the gasket, as mentioned before. This time it looks about the same size, which makes me much happier now that I know what I'm looking at
unlike last time, having never even heard of an oil pump.
It's currently about 6 degrees so I don't know if I'll be able to convince myself to dig into it today, especially as I want to be super focused on not messing up.
One additional question : Someone had mentioned adding an extra green gasket to add thickness.
Should I do this ? Should I replace the gasket that is currently (oil soaked) in there ? It's not damaged.
The last time I ordered this set the box looked in bad shape, and I recall the O ring being larger than the gasket, as mentioned before. This time it looks about the same size, which makes me much happier now that I know what I'm looking at
unlike last time, having never even heard of an oil pump. It's currently about 6 degrees so I don't know if I'll be able to convince myself to dig into it today, especially as I want to be super focused on not messing up.
One additional question : Someone had mentioned adding an extra green gasket to add thickness.
Should I do this ? Should I replace the gasket that is currently (oil soaked) in there ? It's not damaged.
Whose got 2 frozen thumbs and just successfully reassembled his engine without a leaking oil pump? This guy ! ... After working for 3 hours in the dark at -3°F/ -20°C it finally all came together... and now it's time for a drink.
I want to especially thank cn90.
Your patience, guidance and suggestions made for a much smoother repair than this has been the last few attempts.
I greased the O ring thoroughly to make sure it stayed in place and took multiple attempts and utmost care to very slowly place the oil pump. Used the bolts as guides, tightened them and tapped the pump back further, tightened them a bit, etc etc. I used tape to taper towards the square edge and it was amazing how easily the crankseal slid on. Slowly and carefully tapped the seal back. I probably took 3 to 4 times as long as I did the last few times, but it paid off. I was so relieved when it didn't start to drip. I kept rev-ing it up, waiting for it to happen, but so far it hasn't. I'll wait to reassemble the covers until tomorrow night, as it's starting to get too cold and late to continue. Also it'll give me a chance to check again tomorrow to make sure it's actually fixed before reassembling.
I want to especially thank cn90.
Your patience, guidance and suggestions made for a much smoother repair than this has been the last few attempts.
I greased the O ring thoroughly to make sure it stayed in place and took multiple attempts and utmost care to very slowly place the oil pump. Used the bolts as guides, tightened them and tapped the pump back further, tightened them a bit, etc etc. I used tape to taper towards the square edge and it was amazing how easily the crankseal slid on. Slowly and carefully tapped the seal back. I probably took 3 to 4 times as long as I did the last few times, but it paid off. I was so relieved when it didn't start to drip. I kept rev-ing it up, waiting for it to happen, but so far it hasn't. I'll wait to reassemble the covers until tomorrow night, as it's starting to get too cold and late to continue. Also it'll give me a chance to check again tomorrow to make sure it's actually fixed before reassembling.
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cn90
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
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M4rinus,
Glad you fixed the oil leak.
I admire the fact that you work in the dark at -20C for 3 hours! There is no way I can work under that condition.
Anyway, to recap the seal issue for future readers, below are my generic comments that apply for any vehicles:
1. If possible, get seal from dealer (whether it is Honda, Toyota, BMW, Volvo etc.) b/c as I mentioned above: they fit properly and will be fine for a long time. They may cost more but considering the time/labor/effort involved, it is worth every penny.
2. Over the years, I found that as an alternative...SKF is a very very good seal maker. In fact, SKF makes seals, bearings for millions of vehicles out there from factory.
3. Removal Note:
- Although the sheet metal screw trick is good for removal, one must be absolutely sure not to nick any mating surfaces. Once you damage the mating surfaces, game is basically over!!! It is then a nightmare to deal with.
4. Installation note:
- Grease both the OUTER edge and INNER lip of the seal.
- Go SLOW, in fact very SLOW and check the INNER lip during insertion. It has tendency to fold over!
- Use old seal as cushion to tap it in.
- Use appropriate socket and/or PVC Pipe to tap it in.
- Tap it in EVENLY all around.
5. If possible, install everything except for some cover(s), let's say upper timing belt if you are replacing the Front Cam Seal, for a few days while you monitor for any leak.
- Once you are happy with the work (no leak), re-install the cover.
Replacing seal(s) is always a tricky business. It seems easy but it is very very easy to mess it up.
It basically boils down to:
1. Good part (preferably dealer)
2. Good technique
Glad you fixed the oil leak.
I admire the fact that you work in the dark at -20C for 3 hours! There is no way I can work under that condition.
Anyway, to recap the seal issue for future readers, below are my generic comments that apply for any vehicles:
1. If possible, get seal from dealer (whether it is Honda, Toyota, BMW, Volvo etc.) b/c as I mentioned above: they fit properly and will be fine for a long time. They may cost more but considering the time/labor/effort involved, it is worth every penny.
2. Over the years, I found that as an alternative...SKF is a very very good seal maker. In fact, SKF makes seals, bearings for millions of vehicles out there from factory.
3. Removal Note:
- Although the sheet metal screw trick is good for removal, one must be absolutely sure not to nick any mating surfaces. Once you damage the mating surfaces, game is basically over!!! It is then a nightmare to deal with.
4. Installation note:
- Grease both the OUTER edge and INNER lip of the seal.
- Go SLOW, in fact very SLOW and check the INNER lip during insertion. It has tendency to fold over!
- Use old seal as cushion to tap it in.
- Use appropriate socket and/or PVC Pipe to tap it in.
- Tap it in EVENLY all around.
5. If possible, install everything except for some cover(s), let's say upper timing belt if you are replacing the Front Cam Seal, for a few days while you monitor for any leak.
- Once you are happy with the work (no leak), re-install the cover.
Replacing seal(s) is always a tricky business. It seems easy but it is very very easy to mess it up.
It basically boils down to:
1. Good part (preferably dealer)
2. Good technique
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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rspi
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- Location: Cincinnati OH
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Please replace your PCV before you blow a RMS.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
I have the parts from FCP for the PCV service.
Do you think I have a few weeks ?
I spent so much more time on the other job that I need a little break, and I would rather wait till the new year... say somewhere in January. My wife will kill me if I steal her car again for a couple weeks. I only commute to work, 20 minutes both ways. I definitely don't want to blow my RMS. One of the few worst car nightmares.
Do you think I have a few weeks ?
I spent so much more time on the other job that I need a little break, and I would rather wait till the new year... say somewhere in January. My wife will kill me if I steal her car again for a couple weeks. I only commute to work, 20 minutes both ways. I definitely don't want to blow my RMS. One of the few worst car nightmares.
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