97 850 - How to replace A/C compressor pulley bearing?

[combatkarl]

Very good thread...

a. Re-grease the bearing b. Install new bearing as in this thread

Regarding option "a." has anyone used a grease needle? I used to use them on the farm as a teen-ager on farm implements, but never tried it on any automotive bearings. Here's an example from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubricati ... B0002SR6XE

[cn90]

Yes,

I re-grease my 1998 BMW 528i pulleys on and off. Detail in link below.
- Scroll down to see the update in thread #53.

- Basically a syringe and an 18-gauge needle. I file the needle tip a bit so it is blunt.

- Then I gently lift the rubber seal lip (where it meets the stationary part of the pulley), slide the needle underneath the seal's lip, inject grease:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showth ... p?t=555526

This works great because all the bearings need is some grease.

[abscate]

If you go to the trouble of getting the pulley off, you probably should reshim the clutch clearance to minimum spec, after removing any bread clips or zip ties from the fingers

[cn90]

I need to replace the bearing in the pulley, questions for the gurus re options:

1. Option 1 as in this thread, the O.P. posted the procedure with PS Pump and Alternator removed.
Then you have a lot of room to work.
This is a lot of work to undo the PS Pump and Alternator but you have a lot of room to work on it.

2. Option 2: can I undo the mounting bolts and angle the AC compressor downward and work through that small space?
Has anyone done it this way?

[kahl]

I have removed the compressor from the bottom. I also had the bumper cover removed because I changed out the dryer. It was a pain.
I have a compressor and dryer coming from FCP for the new to me 98 V70XC I got two weeks ago. Having changed out at least 6 compressors instead of fighting I remove the intake manifold then fan shroud then P/S then ALT. It's like working in the Grand Canyon. Being a Passat owner I'm use to taking stuff off to service various oil leaks on the 2.8.

[cn90]

I think I found the answer after searching MVS database.
Nathan Bryant showed us how to adjust AC Clutch gap the kosher way.
So replacing the bearing inside the pulley is the same procedure.

It is doable from below, i.e., no need to remove PS Pump or Alternator.

Nathan Bryant Clutch Gap Fix:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downlo ... AC-Fix.pdf

[cn90]

Just replaced the AC pulley bearing in my 1998 S70 GLT with 185K miles.

- The Bosch AL0752X alternator was replaced at 120K, and the bearing starts to have very slight play, which might have been the source of the noise, but I will keep the alternator for now and will replace it only if it makes way more noise. Right now, the bearing is still good.

- The AC pulley has very very slight play and has been free-wheeling for a few years. Glad I replaced it, but if I ever do this agin, I'd get a brand-new Zexel compressor, I would NOT do it this way (replacing only the bearing) again b/c:

* I had to d/c tyhe upper radiator hose.
* The setup is very stupid, this bracket, that bracket, hidden bolts on the alternator. The alternator BOTTOM bolt is hidden under the I.M. with very very tight space, I scraped my hands and used quite a few gloves doing this.
* The AC compressor mounting bolts are also a pain.
* Prying the clutch is a nightmare, the M5 bolts slowly bend the metal tabs on the clutch and it did not even budge! I had to use screwdriver etc. to get the clutch off. Then the clutch was bent, I had to hammer it back as close to factory as possible. The Honda Denso compressor clutch had a better design, it comes off without issues. The Zexel AC clutch has a very very tight fit, it is close to impossible to remove the clutch. The worst part of the job is to get the Clutch off and to get the Pulley of the shaft.

Anyway, it is done, brand-new Nachi bearing, it is somewhat quieter now.

But again, don't bother with this job (AC Pulley bearing), it is not worth the headache. Get a new compressor and move on.