'99 S 70 Rear Shock Change

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Jun 2015, 16:13

That's incredibly disappointing about the nut splitter. Well, the thing Advance Auto is selling that is shaped like a nut splitter.

I realize you know this Evan but I have to say it: be super careful if you go to the Dremel. You don't want to damage those threads.

Post by **E Showell** » 29 Jun 2015, 19:34

Thanks, Eric. Dremel would be my absolute last resort. I'm going to turn up the heat and see if I can find a real nut splitter.

Post by **MrAl** » 29 Jun 2015, 20:10

Hello again,

You dont have to cut all the way through with a Dremel, just enough to crack it with something else, or just unscrew it as it gets looser when it is cut. That saves the threads. I've had to do it a number of times and it's not difficult or dangerous, except watch for where the sparks fly.

I have also cut through a couple hose clamps now, and you know how thin they are, and didnt even put a scratch on the hoses.
A light touch does the trick

Post by **abscate** » 30 Jun 2015, 02:33

You can put a huge nick in a thread of an 18mm stud without affecting function. Just spin your new nut down with lots of lube to chase the threads.

The degree of control with a Dremel is very empowering. Once you start seeing the tops of the threads in the slot, move to a new part of the slot.

I remove swages from SS boat rigging on 19 core soft SS shrouds where you must not cut a single strand or else you just killed the shroud with Dremel.

The only problem with it is the post-Dremel addiction.

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Jun 2015, 04:38

Bought a used KD 715 nut splitter on fleabay. It will be a few days before it arrives. I'll probably keep at it in the interim. As a first resort, I'm going back to heat. I'm using a small butane touch as opposed to my propane plumbing torch since the butane torch is much smaller and easier to maneuver in the tight space, but I'm not sure the butane torch gets as hot as propane would. In any event, I'm betting I can apply more heat than I have thus far. So far, I've been backing off when the residual PB Blaster starts to smoke figuring the last thing I need is something igniting under the gas tank while I'm down there. I'll keep assembled company informed. I'm likely to stay at it though since my mechanic is on vacation this week and I'd like to get the job done. This has not been a royal struggle though. I've spent about a half hour tops on it daily since starting the post.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Jun 2015, 05:29

Yeah..you need propane turned up high, butane torch won't do it. The strut is a big heat sink pulling your heat away from that nut. Your PB and rubber will be melting and burning when you have it hot enough.

I had trouble sweating 3/4 inch copper pipe with propane over weekend and found out from plumbers that isn't rare.

Keep a couple of pails of water nearby as well as fire extinguisher and/or hose

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Jun 2015, 07:40

I'm not generally squeamish about using the plumbing torch to loosen frozen nuts/bolts, but this time I'm not jacked up very high, the working space is pretty tight and all is taking place within 10-12" of my face and in close proximity to the gas tank so I've been a bit reluctant to just fire up the big dog, but that may be coming.

Post by **MrAl** » 30 Jun 2015, 08:16

abscate wrote:Yeah..you need propane turned up high, butane torch won't do it. The strut is a big heat sink pulling your heat away from that nut. Your PB and rubber will be melting and burning when you have it hot enough.

I had trouble sweating 3/4 inch copper pipe with propane over weekend and found out from plumbers that isn't rare.

Keep a couple of pails of water nearby as well as fire extinguisher and/or hose

Hi,

That reminds me of the time i "had" to solder a new battery terminal on for my 1964 Pontiac Catalina 389.cu.in. V8. I had replaced the battery terminal and didnt like the fact that it was bolted to the wire and back then i didnt know that a crimped connection can sometimes be better than a soldered electrical connection so i decided to solder it. It took a propane torch, plenty of heat, and a lot of solder to solder to that #4 AWG wire. It worked though, and was solid after that, but took a while to heat up because that big wire conducts a lot of heat away from the joint just like the pipe.

I dont think ES is a very big fan of the Dremel. I got my first Dremel way back in maybe 1974 or thereabouts. I used it for circuit boards because i built a lot of my own PC boards and needed to drill accurate, tiny holes with bits as small as #75 (almost a hair's width).
Since then i've updated to a new model and used it for so many things i cant even remember all of them now. I do remember one though...on my old Hyundai, where one of the pollution control valves rusted out and there was no replacement to be found on this earth. I had to use special epoxy to glue on a new cap, which was made from a 1.25 inch diameter steel pipe cap. I had to grind all the threads out so it would fit onto the old valve. What a job that was. Took a good hour with the Dremel because there was so much metal to be removed.
Removing nuts is so fast though because even the larger ones only have a small amount of steel to cut through. That's one reason i am so surprised that ES is so reluctant to try this. I would think it would be safer than a torch too so close to the gas tank.

The newer rotory tool i got was from Harbor Freight. It is battery operated though, not plug in like the other models. It can be taken out to the car without a cord. Drawback is that it is not as powerful as the Dremel so it takes more time to cut through something big.
Came with a bunch of bits and stuff for less than $30 USD.
I have collected so many bits and cutters and stuff over the years now though i cant count them all. Some of them i never use, some of them i use over and over again.

Post by **mecheng** » 30 Jun 2015, 10:38

Has anyone tried an Impact gun, I have a electric one and the impact causes vibration which can loosen the rust and allow the lube to penetrate.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 30 Jun 2015, 11:16

E Showell wrote:So I got out the brand new, never-been-used before Autocraft brand "heavy duty" nut splitter (lifetime warranty) -- anyone see where this is going? . . . and after about three turns with my 19mm socket, both sides of the nut splitter --the ram and wedge -- promptly broke off. In case you hadn't guessed -- Made in China.

Read the fine print on the box..
"Only to be used on nuts made in China"

Sorry for your problems. Was looking under mine during an oil change and have a hard time finding the rust you guys have up in the north.
If there is anyway to soak it in a mixture of trans fluid and acetone, do it.
Some on the best rust buster I have found.
Shane