Newbie Frustration S70 GLT Engine Overheated CLASSIC LMS Topic is solved

[Ozark Lee]

Blowby around the rings is going to escape out of the block (one way or another), not back through any other cylinder. Cracks in the waterjacket might get you there but you should see that in the coolant overflow tank bubbling.

...Lee

[denraden03]

Forgot to add, but no air is coming out thru the cooling system. This one has me stymied. Any thoughts as to why I am getting that air coming back thru another cylinder? I know that it is going to be a lot of work, but I am not one to give up easily. I will get this fixed. I am retired and have all the time necessary, but not the funds to do a complete rebuild. My options are:
a) find another engine. B5254T's are hard to find. Is there another engine I can use without having to modify the electronic system?
b) Drop the oil pan, remove the head, remove pistons and if everything checks out with the cylinder walls, re-ring the engine.
c) pull the engine out and have the block deck checked.
If I did go for another used engine, who is to know what I will be getting. Salvage yards want a lot of money for their engines and if its no good you have maybe 30 days to get another which may be just as bad. I have nothing available here in Florida within driving distance, so cost of the engine plus shipping comes out to what I may have to spend on rebuilding mine if the block is good. I honestly think I am overlooking something straightforward and I am working with blinders on. Just going to reassess the situation and start over by pulling the head and going from there.
BTW I screwed up yesterday by not disabling my ignition and shorted out three of my ign coils. I verified that by testing them on a working Volvo at my friends shop and they are dead. I will now have to purchase 3 coils due to my STUPID mistake. I guess I had a brain fart.

[precopster]

There is a thing called limited cylinder pressure do to lack of cylinder wall lubrication. Every Volvo whiteblock owner has experienced it at least once, especially if cylinder bores are worn slightly. We call it Lawnmower Syndrome because it occurs when we move the car only 2-3 feet to move the lawnmower which doesn't allow cylinder walls to be lubricated.

In your case this could be the issue. Because pressures are varying with the same guage and with a different guage this seems the case to me.

Pooring oil on top of pistons can sometimes fail unless it reaches the cylinder wall. Your GLT has dished pistons which may be storing that oil. By the time you poor enough oil in there to flow down the cylinders you have already spoiled the spark plugs with oil.

So here's my idea and it could save you the 30 hours plus of disassembly and testing:.

Drop.the sump and turn the engine by hand. At the same time squirt oil into each cylinder bore FROM BENEATH.

You should be able to do a quick compression test on at least one cylinder with the sump off to see if you've improved that cylinder.

Make certain that the spark plugs are not fouled by oil. Buy some new ones before you do this. You could also poor some petrol down at least the one cylinder to clean off the piston top followed by some compressed air to dry it out. THEN start the procedure as above. While you're in there you could fit a new set of O rimgs for oil supply and clean the PCV port; so not a total waste at all.

[denraden03]

Thank you Lee and Precopster.
I thank you all for your suggestions. I will drop the sump and try your suggestion. Of course, I will fit a new set of o-rings when I reinstall same. I will keep you updated on my progress

[denraden03]

@precopster and everyone else: I dropped the sump and followed Precopster's advice. I had someone crank the engine while I sprayed the bottom of the cylinder walls with pressurized oil. I checked the cylinder with the lowest compression and lo and behold the compression went up. Not wanting to wait, I went to the Volvo dealer and purchased the o-ring kit for the sump. I put it all back together and the car started. I replaced all 5 coilseating. I ran the car for about an hour. No overheating, so I think the problem is resolved. Thank you all so much. Don't know if I would have done it without the input given by all.
However I have a small problem: Idle speed misfire on #1 cylinder. When I disconnect the #1 coil at idle (700rpm) there is no change in RPM. However if I increase the engine RPM to around 1000 RPM and I disconnect the #1 coil the RPM drops as it should. Any idea as to why this happens? Driving the car it has good power and no misfire, but at idle speed I can hear and feel the misfire.

[denraden03]

Tried to edit my post unsuccessfully. It should read "I replaced all 5 coils"

[precopster]

Hopefully just some residual oil from all that "Lawnmower oil" fouling the plug. Did you gap to .028" ?

Swap the coilpack to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves.

[denraden03]

I did swap the coils around and replaced the spark plugs with a new set. I doubt it is residual oil, as I had the car running for more than an hour. I will look into it sometime today and post results.

[Sommerfeldt]

So basically, aside from the misfire, this could have all been solved by the 6th post in this thread.

- S

[scot850]

Yes maybe it could, but part of owning an old car or a brand new to you is to learn about the quirks. Heck after 45 years of owning Volvos I still count myself as green in terms of knowledge. I have a saying, " the more I know the less I know". Basically, as you learn, you realise how little you really know!

So well done getting the car to run, and maybe there are still some tweaks needed, but you have learned about one of the strangest problems these cars can get. It is like when people have split the trans and the engine and then can't get the car to start after re-build. How did someone figure out it is caused by oxidisation preventing earthing of the trans and engine? It can sometimes defy what may seem logical, and the only way to learn is to go out and beat on the car to figure it out.

Neil.