Major problem, Radiator leak?

Post by **E Showell** » 28 Jun 2016, 20:11

I can highly recommend my local independent -- Valley Center Automotive in Long Valley (a bit of a drive for you, I know). You might be able to arrange for them to do the work while you have a very leisurely beer and/or lunch at the Brew Pub across the street. Call them up (908) 876-9628 and ask for John or Jay. Tell them Evan Showell suggested you call them for the work and see what they quote you. In my experience, they do very good work for a reasonable price. I have been using them for approximately 20 years and never found a reason to go elsewhere. If you ask nicely, they may install a radiator you supply. Nothing to lose by calling them and seeing what's what.

Post by **MrAl** » 28 Jun 2016, 20:50

Hello again,

Thanks for all the informative replies here. I was pretty much totally lost on this. It's not like i never replaced a radiator before, but in my old cars it was 1-2-3 it was out and 3-2-1 the new back in. No fuss at all. This one seems to be very different. For one thing, apparently there are different kinds of connectors on this thing, when with the old rad's i would have screw in fittings similar to kitching plumbing. I dont even know how to work those connectors.

How much more complicated is it to get out from the top? I ask because i dont want to have to jack the whole front end up. I dont trust ramps either, unless maybe they were the very expensive kind which i hate to have to buy too

So it is actually possible to get out the top rather than the bottom? That could help a lot. What else has to be removed or whatever?

Oh yeah, would it help to use rust penetrator on the trans connectors? If so, what is the best brand?

Yes i understand that the garage has to make money and that is why i hate to ask him to go lower, but i did suggest that there are cheaper ones like at AZ, and he is looking into it. There is a chance he can find one for 200 or less, which i think would meet my budget. I have to get the struts done at some point too or i would not worry as much about this.

Thanks again for all the replies with all the ideas and suggestions. I cant tell you how much this helps.

I think i mentioned the car type, but here: 1998 v70, 2.5L on the Vin but i see it is really 2.43L, and no turbo "naturally aspirated", base model, engine i think is the B5254FS, 20 valve 5 cyl inline.
Automatic trans (dont know the gender of the fittings on the rad yet though).

Post by **tryingbe** » 28 Jun 2016, 21:52

The extra connections are oil cooler and atf cooler.

ktuuri · Post by **ktuuri** » 29 Jun 2016, 00:52

I Recently bought a Rad for my 98 S70 T5. It is made by OSC.
They sell it at rock auto as well as other places.
here is a link to a video for dealer info on OSC products
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 97&jsn=364

I ended up getting one from a dealer who sells on ebay. I paid about $150 Canadian including shipping.
It came in the OSC box in good shape. Everything looks great and I should say the core is much bigger than other, it is a 26mm core.

That's a lot more cooling, the build quality looks very good. I am doing a few things on my S70 and should get the Rad in , in the next week or 2. I will be using all new hoses as well as thermostat. I will use the Stant SuperStat Thermostat. I put one in my RV last year.

Post by **MrAl** » 29 Jun 2016, 06:43

Hello again,

This car has no oil cooler lines, just transmission cooler lines.

Does anyone know how much more complicated it is to get the radiator out from the top of the vehicle rather than from the bottom?

Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2016, 06:54

Non turbo right??
With no intercooler this shouldn't be too bad.

Start hitting the two M8 bolts/nuts on the radiator ears NOW with PB Blaster, Kroil, Magic Wrench or other. Those are known to be frozen and nasty to get off. I snapped them both and replaced with SS

Post by **tryingbe** » 29 Jun 2016, 06:57

MrAl wrote: Does anyone know how much more complicated it is to get the radiator out from the top of the vehicle rather than from the bottom?

Intake manifold will need to come off to give you the room you need.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2016, 07:14

Al - in Alldata this job lists as 2.6 hours with Auto and AC. Thats probably dropping out the bottom, on a lift. It might be easier to bring it up but I would expect the time to increase, maybe double?

Post by **MrAl** » 29 Jun 2016, 09:44

Hello again,

Oh ok, sounds too hard to get out the top then with the intake manifold having to come off.
I got a new price on the rad, 218 dollars USD, 2 years warranty.
The bottom connector looks a little rusty, but it mainly looks like the clamp itself.

Thanks again.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 29 Jun 2016, 09:59

Why do you want to take it out the top? On ramps, I had no issue getting mine out the bottom and mine is a turbo! Sure, it's a tight fit, but wiggling and angling, it's not too bad!

Edit- I just re-read...I have Rhino ramps (plastic) that have worked flawlessly for years and they are not expensive. I trust them but if you don't, then put a jack under the car where the oil pan is (block of wood) for extra support, just in case. I don't recall having to jack the car up at all- I did mine on ramps.

Major problem, Radiator leak?

Re: Major problem, Radiator leak?