'94 850 Wagon - Mechanic Quote

[wizechatmgr]

I'm not sure I could get it quite that cheap, but a pick and pull might get it close.

There should be one in Marcy, NY (Utica area) by the name of Vince's U-Pull-it. Used to get my old VW parts there.

Suggested items for every trunk on a scheduled visit there - full set of ratchets, a booster pack, and a cutting torch.

[rspi]

ECT, PCV, and cam seals. If oil is leaking into the cap, it can cause the car to die but usually only causes a misfire.

You can always monitor the oil leak at the RMS after the PCV is done.

[FLXC90]

Yep.

Do the PCV, the ignition stuff, ECT sensor, and the thermostat. All in, maybe $300 in parts.

No point in doing the seals until you have cleared the PCV as that is what blows them out. Clean the engine block PCV drain path too - see threads.

Also agree, do this! And then cam seals when you have time, even the fronts are not very hard.

And then put a bottle of ATP AT-205 in the crankcase, its the only genie in a bottle I will ever recommend but its great stuff, has saved several leaky RMS and valve stem seals in these cars. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp ... 11071183-p?

+1 to this and RSPi's comment above. Stop the hemorrhage first, then treat the slow bleeding. I did this two years ago on my 200k+ 98, and no RMS, no return rear cam seal leaks. PCV, ATP, ECT-drive it. Buy two cans of AT-205, it may take a second treatment depending on condition of seals, and rate of leakage.

Do the FULL pcv including port cleaning, this can be overlooked by parts-change focused maintainers, and result in pressure blockages.

[ir637113]

For example,

Our car was listed at $1200. We able to negotiate $850. The only stick 5-speed, MT for sale I'd seen in over six months around here.

Plus...

- Front end was completely shot (struts, control arms, inner, outer tie rods, subframe bushings, sway end links). ($650)
- All fluids ($75)
- Shocks, mounts ($75, Gabriel all the way baby!!!)
- Brakes all around were shot. ($250)
- Tune up (plugs, wires, rotors). ($250)
- PCV (non-URO style!) ($200)
- Tires (all bald!) ($400)
-Timing Belt ($150)

Approximately: too damn much...

If you know how to do similar work for $250, please share your secret!!

I could probably get parts for it for $250 (minus tires - those are expensive), and do most of it myself.

I may have just been lucky tbh. My FIL and I are somewhat of grease monkeys with these old 850s. We've also learned over time how to pick up on issues. So we'll find them in the $1000 range and drive em. Look for a few months until we find something. He just bought a 98 V70 for $900 and it just needs rotors, calipers, and brakes. Granted, he looked for 5 months and bought it off a well-off old lady that was just trying to get rid of it (people with money will let stuff go for nothing sometimes)

I am also talking specifically the older 850s. I'm gonna be upgrading to a newer V70 or an XC model. Roughly the same under the hood but newer. I can't find those for under $2000 unless I want big problems. The ones around $2000 seem to have some minor work needed. Stuff I can live with doing.

So the current plan is I'm gonna stick it in my garage, do all the work I can (spent $100 on parts, so I can live with the investment) and dump some blue devil in there (heard good stuff about everything, but blue devil is apparently the best according to the most people) and see what happens. Once taxes come in, I'll have had time to look around, and I'll grab a $2000 car that was made this century. Might need a couple hundred stuck in it, but I can live with that.

[ir637113]

Got it done. $200 in parts and about 10 hours of labor all said and done. Everything but the seals behind the timing belt and the RMS. Saved myself $1100 based on their quote. Which is a hell of a lot more than I make an hour

[scot850]

Probably a lot more than most make in 10 hours! Well done that person.

If the PCV has been done successfully, worth trying the Blue Devil RMS sealer product next time you are going for a long run and see what happens. Only do this if you are showing no pressure at the oil filler with a rubber/latex glove over it and it is not inflating.

Neil.

[ir637113]

Already checked the pressure with the new oil trap and hoses. Added blue devil. It's gonna end up being a spare car. We're getting a new one once taxes come in. Wife and I both easily put 30k miles on a car yearly, so we can't be driving something that needs a quart a week (what I've heard based on a bad RMS and crank seals)

So we'll keep it either as a spare or for parts. Looking to upgrade either to a v70, xc70 or something in that family. I really enjoy working on this engine, so I'd like to stay close to it, but still upgrade

[ir637113]

Already checked the pressure with the new oil trap and hoses. Added blue devil. It's gonna end up being a spare car. We're getting a new one once taxes come in. Wife and I both easily put 30k miles on a car yearly, so we can't be driving something that needs a quart a week (what I've heard based on a bad RMS and crank seals)

So we'll keep it either as a spare or for parts. Looking to upgrade either to a V70, XC70 or something in that family. I really enjoy working on this engine, so I'd like to stay close to it, but still upgrade

On that note, I think I'll make a new post and see what people recommend

[jtp]

Got some issues with my 850 NA Wagon. Took it down to a shop and got a quote. Want to know what y'all think.

Current issues:
- oil leak from pcv breather hose
- starts and runs while cold. Won't start or drive if engine is hot.
- blowers are strong and I can change direction, but absolutely freezing. No heat.

Here's what the mechanic said:
- oil leak is a clogged oil canister. Wants to replace that and the hoses that split. $404
- all cam seals replaced (I'm calling tomorrow to see if they're busted or it's preventive). $1600
- Rear Main Seal. Same deal - calling tomorrow to ask. $1038
- ECT wires are screwed, thermostat stays shut. $213.
- replace distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs. $541.

Grand total of $3796

All the items under $1000 I could do dirt cheap and it would take me a day. I have two main questions - first, for a Volvo shop, is this reasonable/worth it? And second, do the cam seals and RMS sound like reasonable things to change?

The second one is a little more important, cus it answers the first. If I need it done, the car is toast because I can't do it and even running perfectly, I can buy one for $1500-$2000 around here.

Thoughts are appreciated. TIA!

Pricing is going to vary regionally, I’m in Maryland and those prices are more than fair here. Very reasonable.

Whether or not they are worth it is up to you though.

I’d knock the PCV and ignition parts out yourself, use the additive, and go back for the Cam Seals and RMS if it doesn’t fix the issues.

[ir637113]

Got some issues with my 850 NA Wagon. Took it down to a shop and got a quote. Want to know what y'all think.

Current issues:
- oil leak from pcv breather hose
- starts and runs while cold. Won't start or drive if engine is hot.
- blowers are strong and I can change direction, but absolutely freezing. No heat.

Here's what the mechanic said:
- oil leak is a clogged oil canister. Wants to replace that and the hoses that split. $404
- all cam seals replaced (I'm calling tomorrow to see if they're busted or it's preventive). $1600
- Rear Main Seal. Same deal - calling tomorrow to ask. $1038
- ECT wires are screwed, thermostat stays shut. $213.
- replace distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs. $541.

Grand total of $3796

All the items under $1000 I could do dirt cheap and it would take me a day. I have two main questions - first, for a Volvo shop, is this reasonable/worth it? And second, do the cam seals and RMS sound like reasonable things to change?

The second one is a little more important, cus it answers the first. If I need it done, the car is toast because I can't do it and even running perfectly, I can buy one for $1500-$2000 around here.

Thoughts are appreciated. TIA!

Pricing is going to vary regionally, I’m in Maryland and those prices are more than fair here. Very reasonable.

Whether or not they are worth it is up to you though.

I’d knock the PCV and ignition parts out yourself, use the additive, and go back for the Cam Seals and RMS if it doesn’t fix the issues.

Thanks for the input! Im just not sure I can justify $2600 in repairs for a car I've only got $1500 in between purchase and parts. My MIL lives with us, so we're more than likely going to keep it as a spare so she has something to putt around town with.