Motor Seized? Next steps?
- RickHaleParker
- Posts: 7129
- Joined: 25 May 2015
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- Location: Kansas
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Re: Motor Seized? Next steps?
The project would be a good excuse to buy more power tools. 
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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IronMike
- Posts: 87
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- Year and Model: 2007 S80 3.2
- Location: NorthEast
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Suppose I could replace the rod bearings assuming the crank isn’t toast, only sounds like one rod based on cadence. But concerned about all the bits that are now in the engine and it’s not the best specimen of care from before we bought it.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑05 Aug 2018, 13:01 The project would be a good excuse to buy more power tools.![]()
- RickHaleParker
- Posts: 7129
- Joined: 25 May 2015
- Year and Model: See Signature below.
- Location: Kansas
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Just replacing the rod bearings would be high rolling.
I cannot say if this would work for you but I'll toss it out there. My son's first car was the typical first car, old and with issues. The engine was not running too well so he ask me for the money for a overhaul kit. Because my job at the time took me all over the country, his grandfather walked him through the overhaul.
By the time it was finished I had more in the car then the car was worth. However the education he received from the experience is still paying dividends to this day. If you can get the kid involved, an overhaul or a engine replacement would be a investment in him not the car.
I cannot say if this would work for you but I'll toss it out there. My son's first car was the typical first car, old and with issues. The engine was not running too well so he ask me for the money for a overhaul kit. Because my job at the time took me all over the country, his grandfather walked him through the overhaul.
By the time it was finished I had more in the car then the car was worth. However the education he received from the experience is still paying dividends to this day. If you can get the kid involved, an overhaul or a engine replacement would be a investment in him not the car.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
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My daughter hates our 2004 XC90 as the turning radius is supertanker level. Our newer 2016 XC90 is a vast improvement. The XC70 is a much friendlier car to navigate especially when in a parking lot. Have her try an XC90 before buying. XC90 eats suspension at twice the rate of the XC70 and XC90 parts are more expensive. They are the same to work on.
I would not rebuild that engine for two reasons: 1) Cost of parts are unknown and most likely will add up to more than a good used motor; and 2) oil starvation could have also damaged the top end.
Price out a direct swap motor with decent miles, and price out a shop doing the swap if you don't want to do it your self. You may save $500 buying an engine that needs to be modified to work and then have issues with the modifications. If you are doing the work yourself this is acceptable, but if you pay a shop it will eat that $500 fast.
Not sure if I mentioned it in this post, but I have two shops I use that will do a straight remove and replace for $500 labor. Fluids and additional parts are extra and I usually supply. Shop around and you may find someone that will do the swap for you at this price.
Once the numbers are in you can decide if you want to keep it or sell it as is.
If you are going to keep it, pull of what you can from your original engine that may transfer over in the future like hoses, coils, plugs ...
I would not rebuild that engine for two reasons: 1) Cost of parts are unknown and most likely will add up to more than a good used motor; and 2) oil starvation could have also damaged the top end.
Price out a direct swap motor with decent miles, and price out a shop doing the swap if you don't want to do it your self. You may save $500 buying an engine that needs to be modified to work and then have issues with the modifications. If you are doing the work yourself this is acceptable, but if you pay a shop it will eat that $500 fast.
Not sure if I mentioned it in this post, but I have two shops I use that will do a straight remove and replace for $500 labor. Fluids and additional parts are extra and I usually supply. Shop around and you may find someone that will do the swap for you at this price.
Once the numbers are in you can decide if you want to keep it or sell it as is.
If you are going to keep it, pull of what you can from your original engine that may transfer over in the future like hoses, coils, plugs ...
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IronMike
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 3 September 2009
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- Location: NorthEast
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Good feedback, thanks. Herm... that you (from Swedishbricks)?
I'm going to do exactly that. The engine is toast, went to start it and I'm pretty sure a rod is broken, or the bottom bearing cap came off and the rod is flopping around. Crank hit it once or twice and I shut it down quickly before I wound up with a mess out the bottom.
Lots of new parts on this car so I think I will add them all up and determine "worth" against slapping in another used engine. Where can I look up which engines go into a 2007 without mods?
I'm going to do exactly that. The engine is toast, went to start it and I'm pretty sure a rod is broken, or the bottom bearing cap came off and the rod is flopping around. Crank hit it once or twice and I shut it down quickly before I wound up with a mess out the bottom.
Lots of new parts on this car so I think I will add them all up and determine "worth" against slapping in another used engine. Where can I look up which engines go into a 2007 without mods?
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
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I looked on Wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Mod ... ne#B5254T2
States you have a B5254T2. I believe you can confirm this by looking under the hood at one of your engine stickers, usually on the hood.
Wiki lists all the models that use that engine - almost every car in their lineup with the 2.5T option.
States you have a B5254T2. I believe you can confirm this by looking under the hood at one of your engine stickers, usually on the hood.
Wiki lists all the models that use that engine - almost every car in their lineup with the 2.5T option.
- RickHaleParker
- Posts: 7129
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- Year and Model: See Signature below.
- Location: Kansas
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Surest way to the identify the engine. Timing belt covers and stickers can be moved around.


⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- oragex
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There may still be a sticker on the side of the timing belt cover (a sticker with code bar on it). Otherwise, the only other place is as shown in the pic above - I have to mention that on some engines the block stamping can wear in time and get barely visible - I barely got the first 2 digits on mine, after spraying the area with some water and using a small mirror
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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