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Oil Changed - Serious questions

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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oragex
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Re: Oil Changed - Serious questions

Post by oragex »

When changing to synthetic, I would keep a close look at the oil level. I'd check it no later than each week, even sooner at the beginning. My car drunk oil like crazy when I switched to synthetic, for the first 1-2 oil changes, then the level got stable back again

viper69
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Post by viper69 »

WhatAmIDoing wrote: 21 Sep 2018, 16:45 You can get Mobil1 full synthetic at walmart for $4 a quart, so I really don't see the need to cheap out on oil. I buy Mann filters, but K&N also makes really good wrench-off oil filters, IMHO.
What is meant by wrench off?? You don't need a tool to remove it?
Volvo 850 GLT 1995

5 Speed Manual transmission

122,500 miles and barely broken in

Previous:
'82 Volvo DL Wagon, 4 speed manual
'77 Saab 99 EMS, 4 speed manual

viper69
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Post by viper69 »

oragex wrote: 21 Sep 2018, 17:25 When changing to synthetic, I would keep a close look at the oil level. I'd check it no later than each week, even sooner at the beginning. My car drunk oil like crazy when I switched to synthetic, for the first 1-2 oil changes, then the level got stable back again
What do you attribute that observation to?
Volvo 850 GLT 1995

5 Speed Manual transmission

122,500 miles and barely broken in

Previous:
'82 Volvo DL Wagon, 4 speed manual
'77 Saab 99 EMS, 4 speed manual

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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

viper69 wrote: 21 Sep 2018, 18:17
WhatAmIDoing wrote: 21 Sep 2018, 16:45 You can get Mobil1 full synthetic at walmart for $4 a quart, so I really don't see the need to cheap out on oil. I buy Mann filters, but K&N also makes really good wrench-off oil filters, IMHO.
What is meant by wrench off?? You don't need a tool to remove it?
Yes, They come with a hex nut molded into the bottom. Just use a large box-end wrench to remove (I don't remember the exact size in mm). Some also have rubber grips built in.
oragex wrote: 21 Sep 2018, 17:25 When changing to synthetic, I would keep a close look at the oil level. I'd check it no later than each week, even sooner at the beginning. My car drunk oil like crazy when I switched to synthetic, for the first 1-2 oil changes, then the level got stable back again
If your seals are really worn out, I guess this could be true before the seal conditioners start to work. Another point, if your car leaks oil and you have been using conventional, consider switching to 10w-40 synthetic. Synthetic maintains it's viscosity much longer, while conventional oil tends to thicken up (leaks less the longer since your last oil change). So 10w-30 synthetic might leak more and not stop leaking.

Also, another point to mention. Synthetic oil from a reputable brand general contains more detergents than conventional oil and does a better job at cleaning. You may want to shorten your change intervals to every 2,000 miles for the first 2 or 3 oil changes. Though it doesn't sound like you drive much, so I guess that doesn't really matter.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
Knows enough to be dangerous :wink:

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