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2.5t timing belt broken need help with leakdown test

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

atikovi wrote: 02 Aug 2019, 14:44 How do you do a compression test if the intake valve won't open to let air in?
Move the piston to the bottom before installing the gauge. That will fill the cylinder with air.
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Post by atikovi »

Maybe I should have worded my post differently. Instead of ASKING how you can do a compression test with the valves disabled, I should have replied to the poster that you CAN'T do a compression test with the valves disabled, but pointing out someone's error like that seems rude.

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Post by cn90 »

For those who are short of budget, go to junk yard to get a water pump and TB for cheap.
Install them (don't even need antifreeze, just add distilled water for now).
Do a compression test and go from there.

PS: I wonder what brand of WP or TB that failed at 50K (the O.P. said the WP and TB were replaced 50K prior to the event).
Most local repair shops use parts from Autozone, Advance Auto etc. and you can guarantee that they use Chinese WP etc.
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Jeepers! Guess some people will miss the dead obvious even after a spell out.
All the valves must be closed to do a compression.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
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2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )

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Post by atikovi »

HAHA. Not sure if you’re deliberately being obtuse or just don’t understand the point. A compression test requires numerous revolutions of the crank and numerous compression events in the cylinder to get an accurate result. Why do you think the gauge needle keeps bumping up 5 or 6 times as you crank? If the valves were always closed, the piston would just bounce up and down compressing and expanding the same amount of air resulting in an inaccurate reading.

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Post by MoVolvos »

SuperHerman wrote: 03 Aug 2019, 01:04
Pulling the upper cam cover would close all the valves as the pressure holding them down is relieved. But a compression test would not work and could not be performed in this state. Only a leak down test as the cams are not moving.

I assume you already know this.
Hi atikovi,

SuperHerman qualified what it took to do a compression test if you can't turn the engine because of the potential of having stuck or bent valves.

EDIT: Not a real compression test in the since but at least whether the cylinder can hold pressure.
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Post by cn90 »

O.P.

I have the following set with only 90K miles on them, if you want, you can have them for the cost of shipping. These are factory items, still have a long way to go as they only have 90K miles:
- TB
- WP
- 2 TB pulleys


This way you can use them for the purposes of compression testing.
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Post by jonesg »

I would pull the head and take it to an auto machinist shop . They will tell you what it needs.
I've seen numbers around $600.

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