Greg, long answer below, short answer here. Just kidding.
A lot of this I've learned in hindsight after multiple times with 3 of our P2's on the lift. I apologize for being so long-winded.
I would definitely remove the driveshaft completely, for multiple reasons. Take out the the 2 hanger bearing bolts (no need to remove exhaust, heat shields or fasteners). On the driveshaft, start at the bevel gear & get that CV joint free first. Then attack the rear CV joint/oscillation damper (I can elaborate on this if you have issues freeing yours). I’ve read where some oscillation dampers have a shallower cup to them & you can get the rear CV joint out without taking the front CV out of the bevel gear. 3 of our 4 P2 wagons I’ve addressed this on it was impossible as the depth of the cup on the oscillation damper was too great & freeing the front CV was mandatory to get the rear out. A bonus to having the driveshaft out is you can inject grease into the front and rear CV joints (I do the hanger bearing too) with a needle grease fitting.
I'm sure you know this, but Haldex is for the rear drive only & is just prior to the rear diff. Front wheels are driven straight off the trans. Transfer case/Bevel gear sits just right of the trans (passenger half shaft protrudes through bevel gear & into trans).
Bevel gear you definitely want to service while at the whole project. I don't run the Volvo stuff in the bevel gear or final drive, just Liqui-Moly or whatever synthetic 75-90 gear oil I have around & change regularly. I'm pretty sure proper fill procedure is fill to the point where it drips, then evacuate 100ish ml. It's a splash lubed type assy so if under or overfilled the bearings in the BG won't see adequate lubrication & you may have foaming (see Swedespeed link at bottom of this wordy reply). For Haldex you definitely don't want to deviate from Volvo AOC fluid. I know this is long, but I'm just trying to save you & anyone else some time based on my own toilsome experiences. Replace the filter with the updated one
It may be too early to tell (without Vida) if your DEM pump is getting flaky. I have Vida/DiCE but am computer illiterate so am clueless as to using it. If your luck is like mine you'll get it on the lift & the pump miraculously will be running & audibly strong & rear wheels kicking in equal to fronts. My DEM pump while failing, over 2-3ish months, would "shock" the driveline when it decided to kick on. This was the "hose skipping" sensation I would feel. IIRC it was initially mostly noticeable when everything was still cold. After everything was up to temp it was less so. As it progressed in its failure, operating temp seemed to affect this less and less, & it happened more and more. The odd thing is from the drivers seat I'd feel the driveline shock in the front wheels. In a weird way I suppose this makes sense since the rear drive is fed from the BG. If the DEM pump sporadically kicks in the shock to the driveline transfers up the driveshaft to the BG/front drive half shafts/tires. Blah blah blah. When it does fail completely the torque steer & lack of driveline shock/hose skip makes it pretty evident that you've lost your AWD.
I have gone with the OEM Volvo DEM pump from Amazon for $280ish pretax. Been tempted by the Dorman kit w/filter/fluid & pump for $250 but not sure it's worth gambling over.
Anyhow, there's a couple more thoughts & things I'd do as long as I had the driveshaft out. With the driveshaft out, take a close look at your front and rear driveshaft CV joint boots/belows type rubber seals. Sometimes they crack upon removal - especially the front one since it's literally 2” from the exhaust. At this point, removing the bevel gear is honestly pretty simple, no helper needed. Get your passenger side half shaft out of the way & BG comes out with 5 bolts removed. Drop it down, turn it on side with drain plug removed to void it of fluid contents. This is an excellent time to examine your Collar sleeve & bevel gear input splines. This is a well documented failure point. Also the seal on the trans where the collar sleeve exits it.
Past this, if you look up to your turbo, and see oil drops forming, you probably have the infamous turbo oil return pipe/gasket leak. This one is pretty easy, lots of write-ups on it. if yours is leaking, I'd drain some coolant from the hard nipple that is just above the oil cooler on the back side of the oil pan. If not, the coolant line you need to loosen on the turbo will spew at least 2 gallons of coolant.
Outstanding explanation of bevel gear construction, how to ensure they are filled accurately & why they fail HERE.