Oil - What weight do you use? (Please forgive me for asking...)

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Jul 2019, 02:19

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Comment from Youtube Video
Jared P
2 years ago
I can vouch for Rotella T6 5w40. Don't be scared from the infamous "it's a diesel oil!!" I run it in my jdm 300zx (fairlady z) twin turbo. I'm on the second oil cycle now and it's running extremely quiet and hasn't burned an ounce. Very cheap compared to the others. If you don't want to run rotella for whatever reason, I also recommend penzoil platinum. Mobile 1 is over rated.

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 27 Jul 2019, 05:15

MoVolvos wrote: ↑27 Jul 2019, 02:19 -
Comment from Youtube Video
Jared P
2 years ago
I can vouch for Rotella T6 5w40. Don't be scared from the infamous "it's a diesel oil!!" I run it in my jdm 300zx (fairlady z) twin turbo. I'm on the second oil cycle now and it's running extremely quiet and hasn't burned an ounce. Very cheap compared to the others. If you don't want to run rotella for whatever reason, I also recommend penzoil platinum. Mobile 1 is over rated.

My old air cooled Suzuki motorcycle used diesel oil. There's something in it that air-cooled engines love, I want to say it's magnesium. But it's been awhile. So I don't remember hahahaha

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Jul 2019, 09:04

I'm in Texas and I do a little heavier oil in summer than in winter. 10W30 has less chemical additives to get its 20 point spread than 5W30 would have to get the larger viscosity "spread". As a result the 10W30 is a little higher base viscosity. The test temp viscosity "acting" performance is 30 wt for both but when temp of oil gets hotter than the test temp the 10W30 is hanging in there a bit more so that is why the different suggestions for the temp bands.
I have been in the car fixing biz for over 45 years. I was an oil elitist for a long time. I bought a new diesel pickup 25 years back that used engine oil to operate fuel injectors. The 15 quart engine would get lumpy idle due to oil aeration after 3200 miles. I tried all sort of "The best diesel oils money can buy" including synthetics and none did better than 3500 miles before trouble started. I decided that if the damned engine was going to need those 15 quarts changed at 3000 miles (it was still clean) then I could use the cheapest stuff I could find and it would be fine for 3000 miles spread over 15 quarts. I bought Wall-Mart Super Tech or whatever it was called in 1995. It went 4000 miles before lumpy idle the first time and again every time until I traded the truck. By the way, they added a bleed orifice and let the air out on later model year engines to fix the problem. My point is the same as someone has already posted. 99.5% of us here will not ever need the best oil money can buy, if there really is a difference, because we aren't dragging 3 tons of trailer up a 8% grade in 115F heat with 10,000 miles on the engine oil since last change. Most would probably get 99% of maximum possible engine life using re-refined 30 weight non-detergent since we are nutty obsessive oil changing gear heads. I'm not really recommending that re-refined stuff as you'd likely do a lot more crankcase vent box services.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Jul 2019, 11:43

jimmy57 wrote: ↑27 Jul 2019, 09:04 I'm in Texas...
I have been in the car fixing biz for over 45 years. I was an oil elitist for a long time.

Hi Jimmy57,

Not sure how far you are but have you hear of these folks. I didn't realize till today they were in Fort Worth or I would have arranged to take a tour when I visited both nephews when they attended TCU.
http://www.swepcolube.com/lubricants

Had used them exclusively (306 15W-40, 308 5W-40 & Trans fluid 714 20W till about 6 years ago when I discovered Rotella T6 by accident. Being 3 times cheaper also helped to make the change. Got my neighbor to use it and I'll purchase a bottle or two from his case of 24 and added to the Rotella from time to time.

My rep in CA use to sell $7K worth of product to Chevron. The dad who I started doing business with and him had been selling this for a long, long time. Though the dad has passed away his son continues to be the local rep for a large area in CA. They know the products so well and sees so many varieties of applications that the company offend refers the customers to this rep for field support.

They use to have a page on their website with all the customers that use their products. UPS, Coast Guard, United, Dow... The motor oil can have a 100,000 change interval in the big rigs as long as they use their oil analysis program. Years ago the kit was around $20 for four tests. Not sure what it cost today or how much do you need to buy?

"Sampling Supplies

Test Package Kits come with all consumable supplies needed for the number of pre-paid tests ordered, including Sample Bottles, Shipping Containers and Labeling Sheets that include bar-coded component registration forms, prepaid bar-coded sample labels, tracking labels and shipping container labels."
http://www.swepcolube.com/labtec-fluid-analysis-program

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Jul 2019, 13:01

Yes, I've heard of them and I have used their lubes in gearboxes and other equipment when the owner wanted it. There are some pieces of ag equipment where a geared component is marginal and Swepco lubes make them last when nothing else will.
I have not used their lab. I have used Blackstone when I got UOA done.

I always try to convince people to do shorter drain intervals. The failures of things I have seen are so overwhelmingly from oil related causes. For engines the residue from combustion is not dealt with by filtration and for many shorter distance driver it does not evaporate and leave through ventilation. On same make vehicles with high milage that I can compare the ones with more frequent intervals just don't have failed seals and gaskets and timing chain component wear like the long drain ones do. synthetic oil doesn't do much, maybe nothing, to offset the damage of gasoline and combustion to internals. If I put $10/quart oil into something my frugality would force me to leave it longer. Race engines and BMW M engines are a whole 'nother thing though.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Jul 2019, 23:18

jimmy57 wrote: ↑27 Jul 2019, 13:01 Yes, I've heard of them and I have used their lubes in gearboxes and other equipment when the owner wanted it. There are some pieces of ag equipment where a geared component is marginal and Swepco lubes make them last when nothing else will.
I have not used their lab. I have used Blackstone when I got UOA done.

I always try to convince people to do shorter drain intervals. The failures of things I have seen are so overwhelmingly from oil related causes. For engines the residue from combustion is not dealt with by filtration and for many shorter distance driver it does not evaporate and leave through ventilation. On same make vehicles with high milage that I can compare the ones with more frequent intervals just don't have failed seals and gaskets and timing chain component wear like the long drain ones do. synthetic oil doesn't do much, maybe nothing, to offset the damage of gasoline and combustion to internals. If I put $10/quart oil into something my frugality would force me to leave it longer. Race engines and BMW M engines are a whole 'nother thing though.

In the early 2000's I had a mechanic who could fix anything but was not a car enthusiast. He kept stock of the transmission fluid and motor oil for the half a dozen vehicles and trucks I was in charge of. One day a customer gave him his Ford truck because of the cost to fix the lifters. Told me he had exhausted every trick up his sleeves short of dismantling. Told me he tried the Swepco due to my constant telling him of it's magic bullet effect on problematic engines.

Another experience (I have many) was with a manufacturer that I dealt with. They produced tunnel fryers and other USDA equipment. Swepco lube was the only product that could help keep their bits cool during SS drilling. Glad to know another person who have had experience with Swepco. Cost has gotten so high unless I have a problematic issue I just change the oil more often using Rotella T6.

Interesting though their bread and butter and renown is their roofing and waterproofing material. Tried some cement sealant and it good stuff.

Post by **j-dawg** » 28 Jul 2019, 01:13

I'm not sure the controversy over what constitutes a "full synthetic" motor oil matters. Seems like a semantic distinction. The "group 3" synthetics are synthesized from crude oil; that the base from which they're made happens to be what comprises conventional oil seems pretty irrelevant to me. Everything "synthetic" in the world was synthesized from precursors. For motor oil, whether that be crude oil or something else seems a meaningless distinction, and I don't see any convincing evidence that the group 4 stuff is much better for performance or longevity.

Besides, change even conventional oil every 5000 and you're not going to have any oil-related issues. We're fretting about whether our oil is capable of protecting our engines to 2,000,000 or 2,005,000 miles.

I swap in Rotella T6 diesel synthetic in my other car before I head to the track for a weekend. Oil pressure stays healthy at idle after a session, and the mechanicals stay quiet.

projectsmorol · Post by **projectsmorol** » 28 Jul 2019, 08:07

Driven Racing oil DT40

Post by **MoVolvos** » 28 Jul 2019, 23:47

callahanoffroad wrote: ↑27 Jul 2019, 05:15
MoVolvos wrote: ↑27 Jul 2019, 02:19 -
Comment from Youtube Video
Jared P
2 years ago
I can vouch for Rotella T6 5w40. Don't be scared from the infamous "it's a diesel oil!!" I run it in my jdm 300zx (fairlady z) twin turbo. I'm on the second oil cycle now and it's running extremely quiet and hasn't burned an ounce. Very cheap compared to the others. If you don't want to run rotella for whatever reason, I also recommend penzoil platinum. Mobile 1 is over rated.
My old air cooled Suzuki motorcycle used diesel oil. There's something in it that air-cooled engines love, I want to say it's magnesium. But it's been awhile. So I don't remember hahahaha

Canadian Rider confirms that the Rotella T6 Diesel Oil is a staple for motorcycle riders.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jul 2019, 05:55

I'm not sure the controversy over what constitutes a "full synthetic" motor oil matters. Seems like a semantic distinction

It’s like filling up at Sunoco, the official gas of NASCAR, to get that extra 15 HP

Pretty much any oil over Crisco, with a good interval, will make a Volvo engine outlive the car.

Oil - What weight do you use? (Please forgive me for asking...)

Re: Oil - What weight do you use? (Please forgive me for asking...)