questions about estimate for broken front coil spring

[enotslim]

Removal looks easy enough with adequate clearance in online videos from fcp and elsewhere:



One tip was to insert a thin rod in place of one of the strut/knuckle bolts to prevent the strut from falling, then loosen the spring plate bolts, return to the wheel wheel to remove the rod and work the strut out. Still need to support the steering/brake assembly, correct?

Examined further and some consequences of the broken spring are in the photos here. Lacerated tire is due to friction and pressure I believe, not a direct puncture. Looks to me like the abs and brake lines are OK, right?

Any specific tips about freeing the broken spring? Would cutting the spring using a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder make sense? I'm concerned about how to release the tension safely and whether the brake rotor/shield might be at risk for further damage - perhaps just from removing the tire/wheel. Spring compressor tool (sticks, not clamshell) might work if access allows. Dealt with the same on the rear coil spring repair but the displacement and damage was less due to the smaller diameter spring. No need to cut the rear spring.

Related: I'm wondering if the car might be movable with the spare tire in place of full size lacerated tire. I would only use this to better position the vehicle in my home driveway or garage car for repairs, not for any real on-road driving. Currently moving is a touch and process with grinding presumably from spring/wheel contact.

[MoVolvos]

Pictures are a little small but the spring broke and came off the perch. Remove the tire slowly to be sure the remainder of the spring on top will not bounce off also otherwise the tension has been considerably reduce.

While working on freeing the two large steering knuckle strut bolts make sure the spring will not pop further down and injuring your hand(s).

[MoVolvos]

Can you double check the spring to see if it is indeed broken rather than having "somehow" slipped off the perch? Is picture 1 and 3 the same but mirrored? Regardless there seems to be quite a bit of pressure on the tire. Not sure that the spring is broken?
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Spring Pressue.png (181.5 KiB) Viewed 784 times

[enotslim]

I guess the images are consistent with spring being off perch rather than broken. How does that happen. Broken porch?

Could the spring now be running from the upper strut mount to the tire pinched against the wheel/rim? Seems that would preclude or at least complicate removing the wheel in the usual way. The strut would still eventually restrict further movement of the spring, correct?

As close as I could get with car on the ground in the indie lot awaiting a decision about its fate. I relied on zooming. Those images are mirrored due to rotating the camera. I thought I posted the "corrected" version. Sorry.

[enotslim]

Edited the images to un-flip and add higher resolution. What is the grey/white part with a straight border with the black portion? Don't think it's a spring coil.

[MoVolvos]

Tow it home! Carefully remove the wheel and purchase the Quick Struts.

The arrows indicate possible:
Rust around the spring perch weld attached to the strut
Bent spring perch where spring slipped off due to weakening from rust
Rubber isolater between spring and perch
Grey Vibration Damper as you see on many quick struts (see link to strut below)
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Quick Strut with black dampening wrap for vibration or bottoming out

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Assembl ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

[enotslim]

Tow it home! Carefully remove the wheel and purchase the Quick Struts. snip ...

Very sensible, thanks. Is it fair to say this? Fcp Sachs quick struts use well-sourced components (especially compared to other and previous vendors), appear well-built, are well-reviewed and are a safe bet due to the lifetime warranty but have not been in the field long enough to know their performance over extended time and mileage. For low mileage drivers they make a lot of sense. They may also be good for high mileage drivers but the jury is, necessarily, still out. One concern is the strut mount that might not support a 100,000 mile expectation.

[MoVolvos]

Both Amparts and 1AAuto do not have quick struts.

Amazon has a few.
https://www.amazon.com/s?bbn=3150552011 ... a898d543d1
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The SenSen's also have a lifetime warranty at half the price. FCP Euro is probably a better bet as they will be easier to work with and Sach may be better in the long run.

Let's say you have to change a Quick Strut every 25 ~ 50K miles. Once you have done the work it's really that much easier than with a Spring Compressor. The time involved to take it apart and determine which part(s) to replace before ordering is just too long.

[azureblue]

the lower spring plate looks to be rusted out and your spring has broken through - it is not supposed to come down that far. The strut assembly is unusable. You'll have to replace the whole thing, plus the strut mounting bolts. You should start now soaking them in penetrating oil every day.Yo can turn the steering wheel lock to lock and get in behind the wheel without having to lift the car. But be prepared for some major heave ho or cutting the bolts off.

[MoVolvos]

Tow it home! Carefully remove the wheel and purchase the Quick Struts. snip ...

One concern is the strut mount that might not support a 100,000 mile expectation.

Wouldn't worry about any single component. If one component goes out, the warranty covers the entire unit.