PCV time means question time! Topic is solved

[hu5ker555]

I put some tape across the backside of the stubby ratcheting wrench to retain the banjo bolt head. It helped to have my son (the vehicle owner) lift up the intake manifold just a bit while I kept trying. Again...it took an hour or two of trying over and over again. When I got frustrated/tired, forced myself to step aside and take a quick break. I refused to drop the banjo bolt and washers for fear of never finding them again. Eventually we got it. An experience we shall not forget.

[br0dy519]

About to tackle this myself. Actually got a kit from rockauto, SKP, aftermarket at a great price. just looked at a horror thread of someone's aftermarket oil trap exploding. What kit did you buy?

[abscate]

It helps me to price anchor the cost of Volvo parts as 6 hours of my life saved by not having a breakdown and repeat job experience rather than the money saved with aftermarket.

[TisMe]

It helps me to price anchor the cost of Volvo parts as 6 hours of my life saved by not having a breakdown and repeat job experience rather than the money saved with aftermarket.

A lesson often learned the hard way years ago I nearly threw my E30 into a cement highway divider, at 75MPH, due to a money-saving tie rod. We'll see if I'm still a sucker, because...

About to tackle this myself. Actually got a kit from rockauto, SKP, aftermarket at a great price. just looked at a horror thread of someone's aftermarket oil trap exploding. What kit did you buy?

I got this aftermarket kit from IPD, which I trust due to the overall integrity of IPD, and them stating it's "better or equivalent" to OEM. Again, time will tell if I'm a sucker.

One awkward notation, is that the hose routing from the oil trap to underneath the engine shroud, is 1" longer than OEM. Not seemingly a big deal, but it rests slightly against the fuel rail and managed to irritate me after a long day. Despite this, all injectors seemed to line up fine.

Want to know what I did to align the passenger side banjo bolt?

If I were to do this again for the first time (which is now impossible, as it is now complete), it's probable I'd have chosen to remove the alternator for additional clearance. Additionally, removing the leftmost t-joint hose offers extra play, but I learned from my method that it was not necessary, because once I had it threaded... and the hose reattached... I turned the wrench the wrong direction and the bolt came out.

I nearly cried, yet I held back my tears and within 30 seconds, I had the banjo bolt threaded again. Turns out the magic trick is to snake your left arm underneath the wide radiator hose, support the bolt from underneath with your right hand, and twist with the left.

I spent double the amount of time anyone else seems to have taken, if not more. Yet apparently if I had simply used my non-dominant fingers to twist that friondinsdgk bolt in, I'd have been finished within minutes. For whatever reason, this provided the proper angle for the threads to align. I have 2 witnesses that would vouch for the integrity of my sanity.

Currently working on dropping my oil pan, clogged vent chimney I was wondering if I needed to bleed my coolant system, turns out she's getting new fluids!

[abscate]

Its amazing how a hand change can make a thread starter easier. See the trick above about installing the banjo copper washer fitting copper washer combo on, then securing it with a sacrificial oring so you can focus on just starting it to make this job easier

You can also walk away from it when the bile comes up, and it will remain there

[Blacklab467]

I'm in the process of ordering a PCV kit from IPD and wondering if it's feasible to clean out the small hose and other bits such that you don't have to replace that large hose assemblage? I'd like to keep the cost down and it just seems unnecessary to have to replace what is mostly coolant pipe for $180 extra. Thoughts? Thanks.