What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Jun 2019, 08:21

Speaking of CVVT, I swapped the hub finally last night on the R. It's amazing how relaxing and easy that job is compared to pulling the intake manifold for seemingly no reason or cramping my hands up trying to remove the CBV screws. And to think just a few years ago the CVVT was such a big trial and error on my cousin's S70.

It made a little grinding on first startup, but it's less than before. Significantly less play than the old one after checking on the bench!
I pulled the replacement off a 2000 C70 on Tuesday, it looked really clean and had minimal play.

KHolden · Post by **KHolden** » 01 Jun 2019, 09:27

Yesterday I finally got around to fixing some of the leaks on my 150k mile1998 V70 GLT.

Replaced the rear cam seal (which was a snap), the pcv breather system (which was a pain), and both oil cooler lines (which somehow was way harder than the pcv breather and way more of an oily mess). That killed a bunch of leaks but I still have a nasty one on the drivers side that I haven't been able to pinpoint yet.

Anyone know a reputable Volvo shop in the Colorado Castle Rock/Castle Pines area that can help me diagnose this? I think this one is going to be outside my abilities...

Rear Can Seal was totally popped out

PCV Breather after 150k miles

Rebuilding the lower oil cooler line

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jun 2019, 11:59

For sale

Tested and matched front brake rotors and pads for P80 Volvo.

Custom olfactory warning system warns on heavy braking

Send a stamped self addressed box for more pictures taken on a 1995 KODAK disposable camera. Prospective buyer pays development

Shipping free to first $100 buyer

These are hot , sought after items

No skateboard trades

Scots need not apply ( brakes , get it?) with an exemption for Calgary residents.

Free oil with purchase.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 01 Jun 2019, 12:33

KHolden wrote: ↑01 Jun 2019, 09:27 Yesterday I finally got around to fixing some of the leaks on my 150k mile1998 V70 GLT.

Replaced the rear cam seal (which was a snap), the pcv breather system (which was a pain), and both oil cooler lines (which somehow was way harder than the pcv breather and way more of an oily mess). That killed a bunch of leaks but I still have a nasty one on the drivers side that I haven't been able to pinpoint yet.

Anyone know a reputable Volvo shop in the Colorado Castle Rock/Castle Pines area that can help me diagnose this? I think this one is going to be outside my abilities...

Rear Can Seal was totally popped out

PCV Breather after 150k miles

Rebuilding the lower oil cooler line

Nasty leak on drivers side could be rear main seal or turbo oil lines. Clean everything up and monitor closely.

KHolden · Post by **KHolden** » 01 Jun 2019, 14:55

Rear main seal is what I fear most - it would be the end of that car. Way too expensive to fix that. The turbo looked ok.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Jun 2019, 17:27

abscate wrote: ↑01 Jun 2019, 11:59 Free oil with purchase.

If that doesn't seal the deal, I don't know what will!

KHolden wrote: ↑01 Jun 2019, 09:27 Yesterday I finally got around to fixing some of the leaks on my 150k mile1998 V70 GLT.

Replaced the rear cam seal (which was a snap), the pcv breather system (which was a pain), and both oil cooler lines (which somehow was way harder than the pcv breather and way more of an oily mess). That killed a bunch of leaks but I still have a nasty one on the drivers side that I haven't been able to pinpoint yet.

Anyone know a reputable Volvo shop in the Colorado Castle Rock/Castle Pines area that can help me diagnose this? I think this one is going to be outside my abilities...

Definitely a possibility that it's the rear main, but the best thing to do is give everything a good cleaning and check it in a couple days. It could be residual oil from the rear cam seal.

I've seen Matt mention a shop that specializes in Volvo and BMW, but I believe they're located in Denver. I can't remember the name, but I know they have a very good reputation.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 02 Jun 2019, 03:21

KHolden wrote: ↑01 Jun 2019, 14:55 Rear main seal is what I fear most - it would be the end of that car. Way too expensive to fix that. The turbo looked ok.

If it is the RMS, best short term solution is ATP-205 or switch to 40 weight oil. And I say short term, but I switched to Mobil1 10w-40 HM over 2 years ago to prolong repairing my leaking RMS, and this summer I swear I'm actually going to replace it (which is what I've said for the last 2 summers).

Post by **manovlov** » 02 Jun 2019, 06:32

Replace the old gearbox oil by new one. Color dark brown. I'm sure, this color mustn't be in the Volvo owner manual...
Nothing special to say about the caps states.

Manov.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 02 Jun 2019, 18:29

abscate wrote: ↑01 Jun 2019, 11:59 For sale
Tested and matched front brake rotors and pads for P80 Volvo.
Custom olfactory warning system warns on heavy braking
Send a stamped self addressed box for more pictures taken on a 1995 KODAK disposable camera. Prospective buyer pays development
Shipping free to first $100 buyer
These are hot , sought after items
No skateboard trades
Scots need not apply ( brakes , get it?) with an exemption for Calgary residents.
Free oil with purchase.

I'll turn those and toss them on =P

Post by **amblerman** » 04 Jun 2019, 16:40

This weekend I tackled an AC clutch re-shim on my 1999 s70.

I had the classic symptoms of AC being cold for a few moments and then it would get warm. I measured the gap and it was greater than my larger gauge which was .866 mm.

The job wasn't too bad. I basically followed many of the online videos for removing the alternator .
Some of the videos I watched have people remove the fan shroud and removing the alternator by moving it across the front of the engine and out where this is more space. On my 99 s70 I didn't have to do that. It just comes out near the ECM. Pretty darn easy.

For the puller, I follow the template here;
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downl ... AC-Fix.pdf

However, I just made it out of plywood. Worked like a charm. I did hot melt glue a fender washer onto plywood where it would make contact with the bolt screwed into the clutch so it wouldn't just sink into the plywood as I tightened the 3 5mm bolts. Popped the clutch right off. I threw the tool out by accident and never took a picture of it. Stupid me. Just a square of plywood with 3 holes drilled into it based on the template in the link above.

it turns out that someone had already been in there and had removed the medium sized shim . That's probably the one I needed as using any of the remaining shims would have left me in a Goldilocks scenario: Thick shim would have left the gap too big and the thin shim would have left the gap too small.

So I made one out of some aluminum gutter flashing.

Gap is now .4 mm and AC is cold.

Two tips.

1) Watch out for holes in the frame. There is a hole in the subframe just below the center bolt for the AC clutch. I dropped the bolt and of course it fell into the frame almost to be lost forever. So tape over the holes first.

2) I was able to feel the bolt inside the frame but I couldn't grab it. So I stuck a rare earth magnet inside my glove. Worked well

: magnet.png (512.39 KiB) Viewed 988 times

(edited for spelling)

What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

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