Login Register

Let's talk turbochargers

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Let's Talk Turbochargers: New or Rebuild
Post Reply
j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Re: Let's talk turbochargers

Post by j_cd »

I just ordered the PCV kit from IPD. I'm sure this turbocharger isn't sparkly clean inside, but as far as I know it works just fine. I felt inside the air intake and that little wheel there spins cleanly. I'm assuming that's the turbine wheel. Hopefully the compressor wheel is still good too. There are no grinding sounds, so I doubt it's developed any excessive play yet, etc...

I never disconnected the coolant or oil lines, so it should be an easy job. Just pull the manifold, replace the PCV, then install new vacuum and intercooler hoses on the turbo. I'll cover parts that could be damaged and spray the turbo housing with some engine degreaser, after I scrape some more gunk off it.

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

I cleaned the Compressor Bypass Valve and Idle Air Control Valve really well inside and out. Both appear to be in good shape so no need to replace them. I would like to pop a new actuator on that turbo though. It's too rusted to be able to adjust the wastegate.

The actuator is right on top, so I think I can change it without removing the whole turbo. Can someone who's rebuilt their turbocharger confirm or deny? The round actuator housing side has only two bolts, but I don't want to start prying up on the other end (the actuator rod) without knowing what I'm doing. How does that come off?

In other news, I've got most of the intake manifold bolts off, but it's still not budging. I'm following the PCV replacement thread for guidance. I'll get it eventually. I've actually removed the more tricky bolts underneath. Still tracking down the remaining few...

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14043
Joined: 8 June 2008
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by jblackburn »

In other news, I've got most of the intake manifold bolts off, but it's still not budging. I'm following the PCV replacement thread for guidance. I'll get it eventually. I've actually removed the more tricky bolts underneath. Still tracking down the remaining few...
You got the two up under it? Then there's only 7 up top - other than that, it should come right off. I remember tugging on it and being like why the HELL won't it come out, then realized i missed the main one that holds it to the bracket underneath :mrgreen:

It looks to me like you're right about the actuator. Did you try spraying the heck out of that nut with PB blaster? Mine was pretty rusted, but it came loose within 2 shots of that stuff.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

I just got it! I had missed the bolt behind the PCV oil line that runs to the head. So it looks like I have to remove that hose at the top and route the manifold up and over it. I see the oil trap.

User avatar
pkc303
Posts: 600
Joined: 30 April 2009
Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
Location: Houston, Texas
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by pkc303 »

That is so much fun, I did it twice recently on both of our 850's. It's a great feeling when you get it all back together.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

Looks like I should detach the wires and take this manifold out for a thorough Seafoam cleaning. How do you remove the fuel injectors? It didn't seem like a great idea to just pull up on the rail until the gaskets popped out of the manifold. so I didn't do that. :mrgreen:

Image

Image

Image

vjaneczko
Posts: 1550
Joined: 27 March 2006
Year and Model: 2006 S60R
Location: San Antonio, TX
Been thanked: 6 times

Post by vjaneczko »

Since you have it apart already, might as well use carb cleaner first, then run seafoam for the rest of the system once its back together.
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams

1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

OK I've removed the intake manifold completely from the engine. I put some tape over the electrical connections, then sprayed with carb cleaner and scrubbed with a toothbrush. Drain, spray again, etc...

Looking at this picture of a new turbo actuator, it's easy to replace. For some reason I thought you had to remove the pop rivet on the end of the actuator rod, but you just pop the clip and that's all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... K:MEWAX:IT

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

Just went to pick up my Complete PCV Kit from IDP. The box felt suspiciously light. Sure enough, there is no oil trap in there. Ugh. I was hoping to get this baby on the road asap. Now it's gonna be well into next week. Plenty of time to clean parts I guess. Had I not cracked the lower left bolt off the old oil trap removing it I would use it. Major setback. Now I'm gonna start forgetting how this thing goes back together.

I was going to get an oil trap from the Volvo dealer today, but I've also got a t bolt clamp that doesn't have a bolt. I'll just wait until next week when the correct parts are all here.

Strangely, my PCV kit has a bag with 10 small black o-rings. These are not listed in the kit, and I removed no o-rings when I took the pcv apart. Maybe whoever shipped my kit didn't know and got that part number mixed up with the oil trap.

j_cd
Posts: 474
Joined: 24 April 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by j_cd »

I found this page here with a wealth of information on volvo turbos.

http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/EngineT ... eplacement

According to this, the way to remove a Mitsubishi turbo is to undo the band clamp and separate the turbo from the wastegate, leaving the wastegate attached to the exhaust. That seems a lot easier than removing the whole thing. I tried this, but it didn't budge. I think you have to pry the sections apart. I don't want to break the turbo, so I re-tightened the band clamp for now.

Let's see, what else? I've lost 1 of the 3 little hex bolts that hold the CBV. Autozone has some flanged hex bolts in that size that aren't identical, but should work if necessary. I may replace the stock CBV with this Forge Recirculation Valve anyway. I'll find out Tuesday if it comes with new bolts. One place sells it for $135.

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content. ... t=FMMIEREC

The actuator moves just fine, so I'll probably leave it alone. I may replace the lines that go from the turbo to the oil cooler though. I don't want to, but probably should.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post