trouble is that I do not have Vida. nearest volvo shop is some 280 Km away.
I'll check the soldering and voltages and hope for the best
mine ETM is white labeled so in case that i need to change ETM, is it possible to get one form breakers and just mount it without programming?
Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures
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precopster
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The voltages at the sensors are not indicative of how the board is processing the signal.
On the output side there are 2 wires going back to the ECM coloured yellow/green and blue/red found at the connector.
These should have varying voltage ranging up to approximately 1.0V depending on throttle position and they should be more or less equal.
Same model year throttle with same engine may give you a match but no guarantee of that. Turbos have less programs available than non turbos.
On the output side there are 2 wires going back to the ECM coloured yellow/green and blue/red found at the connector.
These should have varying voltage ranging up to approximately 1.0V depending on throttle position and they should be more or less equal.
Same model year throttle with same engine may give you a match but no guarantee of that. Turbos have less programs available than non turbos.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
I think i found what was the problem.
took ETM out and checked voltage on 5 pin side.
voltage between pin 2 and 4 was 1.15V.
then i had to dig out all the epoxy on the sacer side and on that side it was also 1.15V
took of sacer just to find out that the magnet got loose from the vibrations or it was me who forgot to tighten it up properly.
it was real PITA setting up voltage again but after 45 minutes of adjustment I managed to get it on 1.30V
Put it all back together, resolder everything and the car runs fine. yellow triangle and engine system warning are gone for now.
I'll be driving the car with ETM opened for couple of days just to test it out
thanks for the great help precopster
took ETM out and checked voltage on 5 pin side.
voltage between pin 2 and 4 was 1.15V.
then i had to dig out all the epoxy on the sacer side and on that side it was also 1.15V
took of sacer just to find out that the magnet got loose from the vibrations or it was me who forgot to tighten it up properly.
it was real PITA setting up voltage again but after 45 minutes of adjustment I managed to get it on 1.30V
Put it all back together, resolder everything and the car runs fine. yellow triangle and engine system warning are gone for now.
I'll be driving the car with ETM opened for couple of days just to test it out
thanks for the great help precopster
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precopster
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1.3 is a little on the low side. It will shut down at under 1.24 volts and over 1.55 volts. Xemodex set them up at 1.4-1.42 V which is the exact middle. As long as you've tightened that nut properly it should be fine.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
well I had it right there on1.42V and thought that it is too high.
what could be the reason for rpm oscillation while braking ( it is automatic ), when i release throttle it goes down to 600 and than back to 900-1000 for couple of times before it set it's self up to 900 rpm
when i installed sacer in the first time i set it up at 1.42. engine was running fine, there was no oscillation or anything unusual.
what could be the reason for rpm oscillation while braking ( it is automatic ), when i release throttle it goes down to 600 and than back to 900-1000 for couple of times before it set it's self up to 900 rpm
when i installed sacer in the first time i set it up at 1.42. engine was running fine, there was no oscillation or anything unusual.
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precopster
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Have you got a faulty Brake pedal position sensor? (you'll need Vida or a high end scanner to read that one anyway)
That may cause that or a large vacuum leak at the booster.
That may cause that or a large vacuum leak at the booster.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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precopster
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Volvo's latest new non turbo ETM 36050564 preprogrammed with software numbers 8675184 & 30785867 which suits 2002 non turbo V70 and S60.
They are new (example here had 2015) January stamp, are Made In Sweden and have a re-badged contactless sensor.
Unlike the turbo version and pre 2001 version part number 36050563 which are rebuilt in Italy and can be early 1999 builds these ones are BRAND NEW. Also they can be programmed to suit all ETM cars regardless of year or aspiration.
They are new (example here had 2015) January stamp, are Made In Sweden and have a re-badged contactless sensor.
Unlike the turbo version and pre 2001 version part number 36050563 which are rebuilt in Italy and can be early 1999 builds these ones are BRAND NEW. Also they can be programmed to suit all ETM cars regardless of year or aspiration.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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doublebug
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I still think that BRAND NEW Etm has no firmware. Because i've seen ETMs like this with old software uploaded.
So I think that all "NEW" ETMs with working firmware are refurbished ones.
So I think that all "NEW" ETMs with working firmware are refurbished ones.
If you have questions about Volvo firmware ask me. I may know an answer 
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precopster
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Yes that's right Henry, the brand new ones were blank but new ones are no longer available under part number 8644347, 8644344, 36001821 & 36001822 so we have to buy these now or a XeModex.
This is the first 36050564 I've ordered. It was ordered directly from Volvo.
All the other ones under 36050563 have firmware for turbo 2001 cars. One day Volvo will run out of them totally and we will only have XeModex as an option unless I can work out how to rebuild the boards.
This is the first 36050564 I've ordered. It was ordered directly from Volvo.
All the other ones under 36050563 have firmware for turbo 2001 cars. One day Volvo will run out of them totally and we will only have XeModex as an option unless I can work out how to rebuild the boards.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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LiThiuMElectro
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 19 October 2017
- Year and Model: 2002 V70
- Location: Canada
Got A Space ETM Yesterday and I started to take everything apart it was getting late so I resumed today.
So today I had pretty much all the connection cleared up from the hard goo that covers the contacts inside the ETM. The only thing left was to cut the long bolt, clean the hard goo a little bit, install the contactless ETM and solder everything.
SSSSSOOOOOOOO yeah.... did all that and now the car starts, rev up super high then die... The car is just like "Fuck idleing I don't understand what this is anymore".
The ETM makes a high pitch noise, I can hear the flat open and close for the self test?
Here's a video of the rev up https://youtu.be/C0v2kh0r01s and some not soooo clear of my jankie soldering.
https://imgur.com/a/fEfR8 Note that the wire in the first picture is not solder to the pin lol
If ANYONE have any idea they are welcome...
So today I had pretty much all the connection cleared up from the hard goo that covers the contacts inside the ETM. The only thing left was to cut the long bolt, clean the hard goo a little bit, install the contactless ETM and solder everything.
SSSSSOOOOOOOO yeah.... did all that and now the car starts, rev up super high then die... The car is just like "Fuck idleing I don't understand what this is anymore".
The ETM makes a high pitch noise, I can hear the flat open and close for the self test?
Here's a video of the rev up https://youtu.be/C0v2kh0r01s and some not soooo clear of my jankie soldering.
https://imgur.com/a/fEfR8 Note that the wire in the first picture is not solder to the pin lol
If ANYONE have any idea they are welcome...
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