Question for Oil Experts

Post by **j_cd** » 07 Jul 2012, 09:57

I haven't purchased the Haynes yet either. Does anyone know if those DVD's on ebay are any good?

volvo repair dvd on ebay

KlubMarcus · Post by **KlubMarcus** » 07 Jul 2012, 13:21

I use whatever name brand 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil is cheapest, especially if it's synthetic. The most important part is changing your oil regularly. Twice a year minimum or every 5k miles is my interval. Regular motor oil, blended, full synthetic, high mileage, etc... I didn't notice a difference after several changes. Based on the owner's manual 10w-30 synthetic should cover most driving conditions and additives are not recommended. In other words, I changed the oil before it got used up and something broke. I've used all kinds of oil filters too. But I stick to Purolator, Mann, or Mobil1 based on multiple ratings, internal pictures, and local availability.

Post by **j_cd** » 09 Jul 2012, 12:35

Soon I'll be pulling the cylinder head and sending it out for a valve job. I'm thinking some Swepco or Liqui Moly w/ MOS-2 might help reduce friction on any new valves, for a smoother break-in.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 10 Jul 2012, 00:34

j_cd wrote:Soon I'll be pulling the cylinder head and sending it out for a valve job. I'm thinking some Swepco or Liqui Moly w/ MOS-2 might help reduce friction on any new valves, for a smoother break-in.

No don't, I would use a generic motor oil and run it for 100 miles with a new filter then change it out to your quality motor oil of choice. Make sure the Liquid Moly w/MOS-2 is not like the Teflon stuff that use to clog the filters if you choose to go that route.

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **MoVolvos** » 10 Jul 2012, 00:34

j_cd wrote:Soon I'll be pulling the cylinder head and sending it out for a valve job. I'm thinking some Swepco or Liqui Moly w/ MOS-2 might help reduce friction on any new valves, for a smoother break-in.

No don't, I would use a generic motor oil and run it for 100 miles with a new filter then change it out to your quality motor oil of choice and another new filter. Do some search online and Youtube and you'll find WIX to be a good filter. O'Reilly sells it behind their counter to local shops. Once in while they will put a few out to let people know they have it. Make sure the Liquid Moly w/MOS-2 is not like the Teflon stuff that use to clog the filters if you choose to go that route.

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **j_cd** » 10 Jul 2012, 02:26

BKM98 S70 T5 wrote:
j_cd wrote:Soon I'll be pulling the cylinder head and sending it out for a valve job. I'm thinking some Swepco or Liqui Moly w/ MOS-2 might help reduce friction on any new valves, for a smoother break-in.
No don't, I would use a generic motor oil and run it for 100 miles with a new filter then change it out to your quality motor oil of choice and another new filter. Do some search online and Youtube and you'll find WIX to be a good filter. O'Reilly sells it behind their counter to local shops. Once in while they will put a few out to let people know they have it. Make sure the Liquid Moly w/MOS-2 is not like the Teflon stuff that use to clog the filters if you choose to go that route.

Blessings,
BKM
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See, that's why I post my crazy ideas here. Thanks for the good advice. I did order this however. It's a new Red Line engine break-in oil additive that contains phosphorus and zinc. Supposed to protect valvetrain parts as they break in.

Red Line Engine Oil Break-In Additive

They also say their assembly lubricant doesn't clog, so I got some of that for the cams too.

Red Line Assembly Lube

Post by **MoVolvos** » 10 Jul 2012, 23:27

[quote="j

It's a new Red Line engine break-in oil additive that contains phosphorus and zinc.

[/quote]

Like the old Ragu commercial says "IT'S IN THERE"! And in QUANTITY!

Both of those are in abundance in the Swepco Products. It is not an additive as some think additives wear out. Take a look at Page 2 of this Post and see the my attachment for their transmission. That is way it has repaired some of the bad transmissions I've encountered.

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **JimBee** » 11 Jul 2012, 06:05

Soon after I bought the '93 850 I changed the oil to Amsoil. The difference in engine performance was quite noticeable. I also drained and filled the manual 5 speed with Amsoil ATF. That engine does consume oil through the rings I think, since seals are dry, so after about 6 months I switched to any full synthetic that was on sale. At 165k miles it's a great performer. I don't put a lot of miles on it so change once per year. The transmission shifts smooth as silk with the Amsoil in there. That probably never will be changed.
BTW: on a fresh engine or rebuilt head, an engine rebuilder told me they always use engine assembly lube on all contact parts that move. So the first turns are never dry. I've just used oil but I bought some, it's very viscous and stays on the part, yet not so heavy it should clog. That tech builds racing engines, too, and said he's always used that lube on his projects.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 11 Jul 2012, 21:36

JimBee wrote:
That engine does consume oil through the rings I think, since seals are dry, so after about 6 months I switched to any full synthetic that was on sale. At 165k miles it's a great performer. I don't put a lot of miles on it so change once per year.

BTW: they always use engine assembly lube on all contact parts that move.

Since you drive very little it may take time for the blowby to subside. The Swepco will eliminate a lot of that problem quicker. Yes, regardless of any rebuild upper of lower end all moving parts are lubed with a special grease for the first start up

Examining Increase Oil Consumption At Change Over
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/lubepdf/TG_199708.pdf

http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/techtalk.htm

Blessings,
BKM
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Question for Oil Experts

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