1997 850 start in subzero temps?

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 23 Jan 2014, 22:29

Thanks everyone, it is just to cold to be checking it right now. I do not have access to a garage and as I speak it is -16 (-35 with the wind chill). I don't think it has automatic fan speed I choose 0-4 for the speed. I don't seem to be getting any error codes, where would those display? My check engine light is on but it sent a "fuel emissions leak" code.

Post by **QuirkySwede** » 24 Jan 2014, 09:54

davolvo wrote:Question though, why would my car blow out warm air and then cold and then warm etc?

The ECC on a '98 will automatically switch from Recirc (warm cabin) to Fresh (cold outside) air depending on setting. Read up on your 850 to verify proper functioning in all the various conditions listed.
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1997/1997_850/97850_219.htm#2:22

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 24 Jan 2014, 10:17

Ok, thank you very much. Brrrr

Post by **jpr0204** » 25 Jan 2014, 06:07

FWIW, our 00' V70 X/C SE has fired up in this extreme cold without fail. She has fired up on a 1/2 to 1 full crank.

I will agree that with this cold, if anyone is having doubts about their battery, they will most certainly find out about them over the next couple weeks.

The first thing I did when I bought this car about a year ago was ditch the 3 year old AC Delco battery that was in there becuase I didn't want wifey and the kids to get left anywhere. The car originally called for a GROUP 47 battery which put out 590 CCA. I opted to go with the H.D. Canadian Cold Weather battery which was an Interstate MTP48/H6 which is good for 770 CCA. It fit with no problems and there was no hood clearance issues.

As all have stated here, if you keep your vehicle properly maintained, it should fire up WHENEVER you need it to.

One thing I'd like to point out, and I've seen a few posts on it and agree 110% is this...

When you start your vehicle, LEAVE IT RUNNING. Do not be one of those who start it and then about 10 seconds later go "Uh oh! I left "X" in house" then shut it off and go and get whatever you forgot. I guarantee that when you come back, the car WILL NOT start. The reason for this is:
Just like an older carbureted car, a cold engine needs more fuel to get going. When you start your vehicle when it's cold out the car is in what is known as it's "enrichment" cycle. What this means is that the PCM is injecting additonal fuel in the motor becuase it's cold out. If you turn the car off right after running for a couple of seconds, what happens is from being in it's "enrichment" cycle, 1.) the plugs are "wet" with fuel becuase they didn't have enough time to "burn off" from the car warming up, and 2.) from all the additional fuel that was being injected into the motor, there is "raw" unburned fuel "puddling/sitting" in the intake manifold. So, when you go to restart the vehicle, it is going to inject more fuel into the motor along with the fuel that's already sitting on the plugs and "puddling" in the intake manifold and is a definate invitation for a "flooding" condition to occur and it will be VERY difficult to start. A good rule of thumb is to let the vehicle run for a minimum of 5 minutes before shutting off if you have to so the above condition does not occur.

- Joe

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 25 Jan 2014, 10:08

WOW, so it is not a good idea to start the car a couple of times this weekend even though I am not going anywhere in the subzero temperatures. I should just let it sit and then start it when I am actually going to leave OR if I do start it let it run for at least 5 minutes? I feel like it would do more harm than good to start it for no particular reason than just to test it in these cold temps. I really appreciate your detailed description of what occurs. Thank you so much!

1.) the plugs are "wet" with fuel becuase they didn't have enough time to "burn off" from the car warming up, and 2.) from all the additional fuel that was being injected into the motor, there is "raw" unburned fuel "puddling/sitting" in the intake manifold. So, when you go to restart the vehicle, it is going to inject more fuel into the motor along with the fuel that's already sitting on the plugs and "puddling" in the intake manifold and is a definate invitation for a "flooding" condition to occur and it will be VERY difficult to start.

Post by **jpr0204** » 25 Jan 2014, 10:50

EXACTLY.

If, you are concerned about your battery going out on you, you could always pick up a battery maintainer/trickle charger and keep it on your battery so that your batter remains under a constant full state of charge. You can usually pick one up for between $15 and $30 bucks.

For example, lets say your battery is a little low from sitting in the cold, when you put a battery maintainer/trickle charger on it, it will slowly bring your battery back up to a full charge. Then, it will automatically switch into "float" mode so you don't have to worry about your battery overcharging. If for some reason your battery begins to loose it's charge, the maintainer will automatically switch back on and bring it back up to full charge.

Then, when you are ready to go out somewhere, you can be rest assured your battery will be ready to go.

- Joe

mfagus · Post by **mfagus** » 25 Jan 2014, 11:00

You can buy a trickle charger at Harbor Freight for about $8 and if you google harbor freight coupon you will find a 20-25% off coupon so you can get one of these for a little over $5.

Mark

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 25 Jan 2014, 11:13

Silly as it sounds, it has not been the battery I have been concerned about, it is the engine itself and the toll the cold weather would take on it. So, what I am gathering is that the engine was built for weather like this and it is only the battery that I would need to concern myself with in these temps. What a relief that is. Thank you so much!