2000 v70XC 1171/1174

[abscate]

Are you sure you have a fuel problem? I doubt the damper will cause a no start.

Have you evaluated cam and crank sensors ?

Didn't jumping the relay fix the problem earlier??

[kahl]

Everything you are going through we just did in my nephews 1999 V70 XC. The last part was the antenna ring in the ignition. From what I have read it is a common failure. If you hear hooves it could be zebras not horses.

[DrJammer]

Thanks for more replies. I must have been a bit hasty in thinking jumping the relay fixed the problem, rather it just started a bit better that time.

I will admit, I don't know much of what I'm doing, but I could get the car started and upon turning it off the fuel rail pressure would drop to zero immediately.

Put the in line check valve and haven't been able to start the car. It turns over good and gets close but it sounds like it gets flooded out. and the fuel pressure at the rail is strong (I suppose I should get a gauge). I checked all the plugs for fouling, nothing there.

So I don't know enough to know what to do next, I am looking up crank sensors and antenna ring

[DrJammer]

It seems I am at another road block. I replaced the fuel damper on the fuel rail. Put everything back together and tried to start the car. The car turned over on the first the crank. On the 2nd turn the car started as normal, held idle around 1100-1200, then slowly puttered down to 800, 600, 200, shut down. This same sequence was repeated 3-4 more times before I stopped out of caution. So anyone have any next steps? I know I have jumped around and don't have the diagnostic tools, but am looking for saving grace before a tow.

any time the car does engage and start, if I give it any throttle, it shuts down quick. I don't have many more details, other than there is oil around my coil packs. would pcv system failure cause these issues?

[Ozark Lee]

If you still have the fuel pressure gauge take another look at the fuel pressure and let us know what you see. This still sounds fuel related.

...Lee

[DrJammer]

My fuel rail is holding high pressure for 24+ hours, doesn't seem right. I will be picking up the fuel pressure gauge today to get something more concrete to work with.

Maybe a dumb question, the in-line check valve, I installed that between the fuel filter and the schrader valve in the back. I have the arrow leading the same direction as on the fuel filter. Is this correct or possibly backwards?

[abscate]

That sounds right on the check valve. If you have good fuel pressure at the rail it's hard to see how it can backwards. Your symptoms sure fit a blocked fuel system though...idle ok for a bit, immediate death on opening throttle.

Buying the fuel pressure gauge is the right next step though.

Just on a whim, have you tried unplugging the MAF? If it's gone wacky, it is the other part of the car that respons directly to throttle opening.

[DrJammer]

I have tried starting with the MAF unplugged with no luck, but I will try that again. I will also put in the back up fuel pump relay I have, since I am trying with the original in there.

It really looks like my pcv system is dumping oil near my coil packs, can that induce a no start?

Should I be looking for a stuck throttle flap? I will be looking into the cam sensor and maybe taking the top off to look for oil seepage?

I've been reading too much, I'm starting to muddy the waters

[abscate]

I think I'm calling for a new fuel pump relay to eliminate that.

I doubt the oil on the top is doing anything...do make sure all of your coil pack hold Dow n screws are tight and clean. That's the ground circuit!

Coil packs are funny things and can induce a no start. Is it idling smoothly when it starts briefly or rough?

[DrJammer]

Well I'm a fool and couldn't even get the fuel pressure gauge to operate correctly. It looks like I am at the same spot. I had a bit of trouble getting the valves to seat since there was so much pressure in the rail still.

The car wants to start, and sometimes it does, revs on, holds around 1100 rpm smooth for a few seconds then slowly cuts off. Again the fuel pressure is still strong at the rail after sitting with the battery disconnected for close to 24 hours. I don't have much more to divulge without proper fuel pressure readings. I tried starting the car with the MAF unplugged, no difference. I tried a used OEM fuel pump relay with no difference. So it seems the fuel is getting up front but too much? What are some checks I can do to look for issues in the return line? still may be a vacuum leak I suppose

I did notice a ton of crud on the back end of the turbo intake? and back down past the air inlet, doesn't look like a good thing.

I tried putting a tennis ball air leak tester (from an audi), but don't even know where to put that for a snug fit