Replacing rotors

Post by **wheelsup** » 29 Aug 2009, 16:31

I was actually able to just push the calipers back with my bare fingers/hands. If you have an Advance Auto parts store nearby they will loan out a disc brake kit with the 8mm hex and the caliper compression tool for a refundable deposit. Channel lock pliers (Lowes/Home Depot) work really well too, I used them on my fronts and it was a lot easier than using my fingers on the rears!

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Aug 2009, 17:10

Yeah when I did my front brakes I just used my hands to compress the piston. I was just wondering about a tool that would do that simply because I was worried about breaking something if I used my hands. This isn't entirely related to rotors, but anybody know anything about bleeding brakes or is there a thread about that on here already?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Aug 2009, 17:17

Unless you opened the bleeder valves there is no reason to bleed them unless you suspected air in the lines before the pad change or you want to flush the brake fluid. Changing brake pads, in and of itself, doesn't require bleeding since the system was never opened.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Aug 2009, 19:55

Yeah I know. I did my brake pads last week. I was thinking about bleeding them tomorrow though, because my pedal feels a bit spongy. Thats why I asked. haha

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Aug 2009, 20:02

The cool way to bleed them is with a Motive power bleeder. I am cheap and bought a $20.00 Mityvac from Harbor Freight and it has worked fine for me.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Aug 2009, 20:18

Hmmm...I was going to follow the Haynes manual to do this. I really just want to know where the bleeder screws are, what size wrench to use, and what diameter the rubber hose should be that will go from the screw into the jar/container...

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 31 Aug 2009, 00:27

Bled all four brakes today. Not a tough job. I haven't felt a huge difference in the way my brake pedal feels, however. I think I might invest in a power bleeder and try my hand at bleedings the brakes again.

mister_merl · Post by **mister_merl** » 07 Dec 2009, 19:00

Do you have to change the rotors when you change the break pads? A mechanic at the local import repair shop said the rotors need to be changed with the pads because the European cars use softer metals for their rotors. He gave me an estimate of $500 and some dollars to change my break pads and put new rotors on. Once again, is this necessary?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 07 Dec 2009, 19:14

mister_merl wrote:Do you have to change the rotors when you change the break pads? A mechanic at the local import repair shop said the rotors need to be changed with the pads because the European cars use softer metals for their rotors. He gave me an estimate of $500 and some dollars to change my break pads and put new rotors on. Once again, is this necessary?

If they are not warped or they are still of sufficient thickness there is no reason to change them. I normally get two sets of pads for every set of rotors on my Volvos. I have been replacing the rotors with drilled rotors as I go and I have not put on sufficient mileage to say if you can actually get three sets of pads out of them.

Turning the rotors is a bad idea. I tried that on my '94 on the rears and they only lasted another few thousand miles before they warped again. You can buy new rotors for about the same price as getting them turned anyway.

The Chinese Brembos have a terrible reputation if you are replacing the rotors.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 08 Dec 2009, 01:47

Zimmermans are also a good option for rotors.

Replacing rotors

Re: Replacing rotors