Thanks for the details. I always presumed flares where RPM drops, not spikes. I knew it wasn't slipping because the RPM wasn't spiking.
To get the solenoids displayed on VIDA do I select them on TCM?
Genuine Volvo ATF is NOT Mobil 3309...
- SuperHerman
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Here are my thoughts - no fluid regardless of brand is exactly the same unless it comes from the same lot production run. Same brands/type are almost identical. Likewise for brands coming out of the same facility that are rebranded. After that brands utilizing the same formula are extremely similar. After that different brands different formula, but identified as compatible, are close enough to work.
All the rest of the stuff and testing here has the following issues: 1) Adaptations must be reset; 2) Fuzzy Logic for driving style must be identical (rather hard to accomplish); 3) Mileage wear difference has to be nominal; and 4) the rest of the transmission has to be 100% functional.
Changing transmission fluid and making comparisons when one has a solenoid issue that is causing the shift issues is of little evidence regarding transmission fluid types. Changing transmission fluid when the adaptations are not reset shows the same - repeat for fuzzy logic. The difference in mileage, hence wear, has to be minimal as that adds another factor.
I fully understand some "compatible" fluids are different in specs, some of this difference impacts the solenoids, but via the adaptations it can be compensated. Exact fluids new and used/aged have different properties - that is what the adaptation feature is designed to adjust. Going further, sometimes the transmission maker changes the recommended fluid during production. Meaning you go to the dealer and they will put in the newer "correct" fluid which is different than what was originally installed.
I have had excellent results with MaxLife, Toyota IV and Castro in my Volvos - but the transmissions were well sorted out before hand. Meaning the solenoids, valve body, B4 servo were serviced or in working condition when the final fluid assessment was made. Sure I have done drain and fills with no success, hoping the magic bullet would work - only to have to go in deeper.
Bottom line changing fluid will not fix a bad part - BUT IT MAY help clean out some gunk which results in the needed fix.
All the rest of the stuff and testing here has the following issues: 1) Adaptations must be reset; 2) Fuzzy Logic for driving style must be identical (rather hard to accomplish); 3) Mileage wear difference has to be nominal; and 4) the rest of the transmission has to be 100% functional.
Changing transmission fluid and making comparisons when one has a solenoid issue that is causing the shift issues is of little evidence regarding transmission fluid types. Changing transmission fluid when the adaptations are not reset shows the same - repeat for fuzzy logic. The difference in mileage, hence wear, has to be minimal as that adds another factor.
I fully understand some "compatible" fluids are different in specs, some of this difference impacts the solenoids, but via the adaptations it can be compensated. Exact fluids new and used/aged have different properties - that is what the adaptation feature is designed to adjust. Going further, sometimes the transmission maker changes the recommended fluid during production. Meaning you go to the dealer and they will put in the newer "correct" fluid which is different than what was originally installed.
I have had excellent results with MaxLife, Toyota IV and Castro in my Volvos - but the transmissions were well sorted out before hand. Meaning the solenoids, valve body, B4 servo were serviced or in working condition when the final fluid assessment was made. Sure I have done drain and fills with no success, hoping the magic bullet would work - only to have to go in deeper.
Bottom line changing fluid will not fix a bad part - BUT IT MAY help clean out some gunk which results in the needed fix.
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XC70Rider
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All the drains and flush I did were worth it because the ATF is still coming out dark with a red tint. The PO might of followed Volvos advice and never changed the ATF.SuperHerman wrote: ↑30 Apr 2019, 13:34
Bottom line changing fluid will not fix a bad part - BUT IT MAY help clean out some gunk which results in the needed fix.
When you mention 'Adaptions must be reset' are you referring to after only a solenoid replacement? After changing ATF I have only reset the fluid counter.
- oragex
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In theory, the adaptations are reset (and relearned) only after replacing the valve body (or the whole transmission). New fluid only needs the fluid counter reset. I've seen some people resetting the adaptations as well without replacing any part, not sure how safe is this, some owners reported good changes. The thing is, the transmission will be forced to relearn the shift points with old parts some of which have wear to them or even don't work properly any longer (the solenoids for example)
In all cases, when the adaptations are reset, one should make sure to do the relearn procedure the correct way and have the transmission relearn all shift points properly, with the transmission fully warmed up, all this before shutting off the engine.
In all cases, when the adaptations are reset, one should make sure to do the relearn procedure the correct way and have the transmission relearn all shift points properly, with the transmission fully warmed up, all this before shutting off the engine.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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XC70Rider
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I just read those solenoid currents while driving with VIDA and they are within range.
After draining the ATF yesterday I took her for 45 mile ride. It was dropping 500prm while shifting into 4th and 5th gears. It was also dropping ~500rpm when the TC locked in 4th gear. I just took her for a 24 mile ride and it was notably smoother. It was only dropping 500rpm when engaging in the 5th gear. When locking up in 4th gear I only noticed a slight rpm drop. I guess it takes a few rides for the TCM to adapt to the new ATF.
Sure is awesome!. Much safer than leaning over a laptop while driving.
- SuperHerman
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Question: Is Adaptation needed after doing a fluid change? Answer, which is consistent with what I understand, is yes. Being lazy rather than boot up VIDA, I searched. See here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... Adaptation
On the flip side, I can understand the concept of not doing it if all is shifting fine before hand, especially with a drain and fill. It is more trouble than it is worth and the incremental change is offset by the hassle for no perceivable improvement (ignoring fuzzy logic one has trained).
As I have stated before the car's transmission computer will figure it out, Adaptation just resets the entire computer and then in learn mode sets the shift point - after that the fuzzy logic takes over and learns the driver's driving habits and makes more adjustments.
Dirty old fluid has different characteristics than new fresh fluid - so the solenoids will act differently. If the car is having shift problems, as a result of the dirty fluid, an adaptation is warranted. If parts changed, like a new solenoid, it would make sense to reset the system.
For example, one has a sticking solenoid that needs loads of pressure to engage, the computer has learned this need and adjusts accordingly. Replace the bad solenoid and the adjustment is no longer needed, but the added pressure comes at a cost. Hence the need to reset.
I swapped out a valve body and didn't do an adaptation for the first 10-20 miles. It drove fine, no slamming, but after the Adaptation and relearn it was much better.
Adaptation can best be seen as a reset and base level calibration. After that the computer will adjust, it just takes time. Use that concept to decide if an adaptation is warranted.
On the flip side, I can understand the concept of not doing it if all is shifting fine before hand, especially with a drain and fill. It is more trouble than it is worth and the incremental change is offset by the hassle for no perceivable improvement (ignoring fuzzy logic one has trained).
As I have stated before the car's transmission computer will figure it out, Adaptation just resets the entire computer and then in learn mode sets the shift point - after that the fuzzy logic takes over and learns the driver's driving habits and makes more adjustments.
Dirty old fluid has different characteristics than new fresh fluid - so the solenoids will act differently. If the car is having shift problems, as a result of the dirty fluid, an adaptation is warranted. If parts changed, like a new solenoid, it would make sense to reset the system.
For example, one has a sticking solenoid that needs loads of pressure to engage, the computer has learned this need and adjusts accordingly. Replace the bad solenoid and the adjustment is no longer needed, but the added pressure comes at a cost. Hence the need to reset.
I swapped out a valve body and didn't do an adaptation for the first 10-20 miles. It drove fine, no slamming, but after the Adaptation and relearn it was much better.
Adaptation can best be seen as a reset and base level calibration. After that the computer will adjust, it just takes time. Use that concept to decide if an adaptation is warranted.
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vtl
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Seriously, add couple of oz of Lubegard HFM.
Did I tell my mini-Dice can put transmission into adaptation mode? I often do it while waiting for a green light, just switch to a neutral and press the button
Too labor-intensive to make it profitable, too boring as there's no research/reverse engineering bits left, and I have a job that pays my bills already
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IslandV70
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So given this whole thread and the $25/liter price for ATF at the Volvo dealer, it seems OK to me to get T-IV at the Toyota dealer for a drain and fill.
Also I so want to build that display. I don't want to make 100s of them, but I do want one
Also I so want to build that display. I don't want to make 100s of them, but I do want one
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