Trying to get the ball joint out, bolt is out, sprayed with PB Blaster opened
the slot a bit. Tricks?
Perhaps I should do it once the new strut is in to hold the top?
Strut is back ordered until Friday, thinking of putting in a Sachs since they
will give it as a replacement.
Son's 850 and Ford Taurus Totaled by drunk driver last night
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PeteB
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This thread suggests a pickle fork to get it out:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82371&hilit=ball+joint+stuck
Also mentions that some LCA's are aluminum (cast?) those would surly bend.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82371&hilit=ball+joint+stuck
Also mentions that some LCA's are aluminum (cast?) those would surly bend.
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Pete - looks good per VOLVO OEM website
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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scot850
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To confirm wagon and sedan doors are the same. Aluminum control arms were fitted to 93 and possibly 94 850's only, and had a replaceable ball-joint so easy to identify. Some owner prize these and I sold a set in good condition to one of those owners. Personally it is nice to be able to replace the ball joint, but they are softer and more likely to bend, I still prefer the good old steel ones.
Have you removed the bolts from the sub-frame end of the control arm? I have never been able to get the ball-joint out without removing then and then the ball joint will release. Open the slot first and then soak with PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil and I then gently tap down on it with a hammer to remove it. Rust tends to build up on the top of the ball joint shaft and acts as a brake to removal if they have been on there for some time.
Pickle fork may work, but if you are re-using the control arm, then be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.
Neil.
Have you removed the bolts from the sub-frame end of the control arm? I have never been able to get the ball-joint out without removing then and then the ball joint will release. Open the slot first and then soak with PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil and I then gently tap down on it with a hammer to remove it. Rust tends to build up on the top of the ball joint shaft and acts as a brake to removal if they have been on there for some time.
Pickle fork may work, but if you are re-using the control arm, then be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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I found Volvo would not sell me the single use ball joint bolt/nut to reinstall my LCA, so I had to reuse and monitor on the 99. It is a difficult one to source locally.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- erikv11
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Not sure if you got this out yet but, oftentimes it helps to drop the LCA at the subframe first, otherwise the ball joint binds up.PeteB wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 11:45 This thread suggests a pickle fork to get it out:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82371&hilit=ball+joint+stuck
Also mentions that some LCA's are aluminum (cast?) those would surly bend.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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Door is for an S70. Not sure it will interchange. Hey Pete. I have a black driver's side front door you can have. I replaced it with one from Harry's in Hazelton because the paint was a bit scratched up and I could get a complete replacement for $35 which was considerably cheaper than repainting the existing one. There's no rust on it and integrity, other than paint scratches, is fine. I'm in western NJ and work in Newark. I have to be in Poughkeepsie, NY in a couple weeks, probably on a Friday evening. You can drive to Long Valley, N.J. or Newark, or meet me in Poughkeepsie, choice is yours. I'll take some karma points and a six pack of good beer for it. You'll have to swap the door handle and lock. PM me and we'll work out details if you're interested.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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