98V70 NA low oil pressure follow up

[cn90]

Couple thoughts.

1. Your engine may be OK still. Best bet is to re-install the new oil filter, add oil, then fire it up for just 5-10 sec.
Listen to the noise (post the video if you can), if it comes from the front, then likely bad oil pump.
No need to buy new, used oil pump is $50 on ebay.

2. Now, if you decide to replace the oil pump, then buy the oil pump gasket kit for cheap, use only Volvo OEM gaskets.
Front Crank Seal: Corteco is OEM.

3. At this mileage of 170K-180K, consider dropping the oil pan, clean it all out. This is great opportunity to replace all the infamous O-rings. Again, use only Volvo O-rings.

I guess you can do the whole thing for < $100.

[RickHaleParker]

As I recall, OP has a base V70, hence B5254S motor, application from 95 to 98 N/A 850s and 870s.

Hum no idea why I thought he had the XC.
Need him to clarify if the NA in the subject title is for Naturally Aspirated or North America.

The four engine options for the North America (AME partner group) 1998 V70 are

• B5234T
  B5234T3
  B5234T6
  B5234FS M4.4.

Correction: B5254FS M4.4 not B5234FS M4.4.

When he clarifies what he has. I'll revise my previous post and upload the repair procedures.

[mrbrian200]

Couple thoughts.

1. Your engine may be OK still. Best bet is to re-install the new oil filter, add oil, then fire it up for just 5-10 sec.
Listen to the noise (post the video if you can), if it comes from the front, then likely bad oil pump.
No need to buy new, used oil pump is $50 on ebay.

2. Now, if you decide to replace the oil pump, then buy the oil pump gasket kit for cheap, use only Volvo OEM gaskets.
Front Crank Seal: Corteco is OEM.

3. At this mileage of 170K-180K, consider dropping the oil pan, clean it all out. This is great opportunity to replace all the infamous O-rings. Again, use only Volvo O-rings.

I guess you can do the whole thing for < $100.

I concur. If you're going to try replacing the pump go with a used one. You stated in the original thread by the time you pulled off and stopped the engine it was running rough. The question is whether the roughness was due to the hydraulic tappets on a '98 collapsing because they were full of air or if it was the pistons-rings/bearings beginning to overheat break down and seize, in which case the engine is toast.

Can you be more specific how far you continued after the oil light came on steady before you got the vehicle stopped and keyed off? A couple thousand feet or a couple thousand miles?

[cn90]

CORRECTION on my previous photo, I showed a YELLOW arrow as "excess oil bleeding"...but not sure.

According to this DIY by ecbsykes, that port is for the external oil cooler for models from 1999 onward:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31236

[98v70dad]

As I recall, OP has a base V70, hence B5254S motor, application from 95 to 98 N/A 850s and 870s.

Hum no idea why I thought he had the XC.
Need him to clarify if the NA in the subject title is for Naturally Aspirated or North America.

The four engine options for the North America (AME partner group) 1998 V70 are

• B5234T
  B5234T3
  B5234T6
  B5234FS M4.4.

When he clarifies what he has. I'll revise my previous post and upload the repair procedures.

My car is a non-turbo.

[RickHaleParker]

My car is a non-turbo.

Per Volvo Vida the 1998 V70 Base Non-turbo for AME partner group is B5254FS M4.4.

B5254FS
The B5254FS, sometimes referred to as B5254FS LH 3.2 or B5254FS M4.4, is a 2.4 L (2,435 cc) straight-five. Compression ratio of 10.5:1. It is naturally aspirated with a power output of 170 PS (125 kW; 168 hp) with 220 N⋅m (162 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3300 rpm.[75] It is equipped with Bosch LH-3.2/EZ-129K engine management for model year 1996; and Bosch Motronic 4.4 engine management for model years 1997 and 1998.

Applications:

1996–1997 Volvo 850 badged as 850
1997–1998 Volvo S70 badged as S70
1997–1998 Volvo V70 badged as V70


Attached are three procedures to help you decide which option to take.

[98v70dad]

Further inspection of the two large chunks that came out of the top of the oil filter reveals the following (refer to photo posted Friday):

a) The two large parts fit together - no real significance there
b) There is a casting line on the largest part - you can see it in the photo I posted Friday
c) The two pieces are about 1/10 inch thick.
d) There is a golden hue (shellac like deposit?) on both sides of both pieces - presumably the part was in a position to have oil on both sides.
e) one side of both parts has a speckling of dark deposits. Its a fairly thin film but distinctly different than the "beautiful golden hue" of the other side.

The photo of the inner workings of the oil pump perplex me. The gears themselves are too big to be the parts I found in the oil filter (see photos above). There is nothing in the photo of the opil pump that looks thin enough to be 0.10" think except maybe the housing. Of course, the other side of the oil pump housing may have some directional vanes, etc .. .don't know. However, if the housing failed and pieces split off I would probably have an oil leak from the oil pump area and I didn't see anything like that when I inspected the undercarriage of the car.

[98v70dad]

Can you be more specific how far you continued after the oil light came on steady before you got the vehicle stopped and keyed off? A couple thousand feet or a couple thousand miles?

I drove no more than two miles with the oil light full on as far as I recall. It wasn't running too bad when I shut it off. However, when I started the V70 up a few days later to assess the situation it was pretty bad. Sounded like metal in a garbage disposal. I only let it run like that for about 10 seconds. That said the gears in the oil pump would function quite well as a grinder for metal.

I've located a used oil pump and may buy it. Its probably worth the risk since I'll I'll lose is about $100 and a Saturday or two. That said if I end up with a beast that runs and furiously burns oil - I really don't want to bother with it since its a spare car and I've got my use of it for 10 years and very few dollars. My plan for now is:

1. Do a compression check - if its fairly good go ahead to item 2. Bad compression = send car to junk yard or install used engine.
2. Drop the pan and see what I find - clean out any crud - clean sump screen. If item 2 didn't reveal any BIG problems go ahead to item 3.
3. Remove oil pump and see what I find.
4. Somehow ensure that the internal oil passages between oil pump and oil filter aren't blocked with shrapnel and remove if they are. I'm at a loss about how to achieve this step. Fishing a stout wire through would reveal any blockages but probably wouldn't dislodge them.
5. Replace the pan and O-ring seals.
6. Replace the oil pump with a used replacement pump and new oil pump seals.

That's about it - thoughts anyone??????

[RickHaleParker]

I'm at a loss about how to achieve this step. Fishing a stout wire through would reveal any blockages but probably wouldn't dislodge them.

Compress air, pressurized water or stout wire in the opposite direction of oil flow has the best chance of dislodging.