Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Post by **abscate** » 19 Apr 2018, 19:57

You can feed a VIN or a model into Volvo parts lisle website and pull up the part numbers for each to compare

Post by **scot850** » 19 Apr 2018, 20:30

From what I can see on my copy of Vida is there are 2 part numbers listed depending on emissions code. What totally doesn't make sense is it lists part #: 9142514 for FWD cars with emissions code 3 or 4, but whan you check where it is used is only lists C/S/V70 from 1998-00?? No 850's listed??

Then the other part # is: 9141101. This is listed for emissions codes 0, 1 and 5. Emissions code 2 has something unintelligible about " see product sign blah, blah,,,,.

When you check where used it lists all 850's from 92-97 (excluding AWD).

When you compare the drawings they look the same, but that does not always transfer in actuality.

Maybe worth checking with a dealer, or pulling one from a junkyard from a V70/S70 and see if they are the same.

Neil.

Post by **erikv11** » 19 Apr 2018, 20:54

I don't think I have ever seen a leak in the actual P80 tank, not sure I would bother to prep for that. The tank is plastic, FWIW. I'd be happy to send you for $10 plus shipping!

Don't forget to consider the gasket at the top of the fuel pump, you well see gas leak when full (only) if that is the problem. The way you are refreshing preemptively, I would do that too.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 19 Apr 2018, 21:11

erikv11 wrote: ↑19 Apr 2018, 20:54 I don't think I have ever seen a leak in the actual P80 tank, not sure I would bother to prep for that. The tank is plastic, FWIW. I'd be happy to send you for $10 plus shipping!

Don't forget to consider the gasket at the top of the fuel pump, you well see gas leak when full (only) if that is the problem. The way you are refreshing preemptively, I would do that too.

I will certainly keep that offer in mind, however I can get one at a pick n pull for $35.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 09 May 2018, 20:26

Lots of stuff planned for next week. Timing belt/water pump kit, pcv inspection etc. Today I checked for any parasitic power drains. I found a constant drain of 32mA with everything off and unlocked. I pulled and replaced fuses one at a time and found the fuse for "central locking" cut the drain in Half. Is this a normal amount of power usage?

Post by **abscate** » 10 May 2018, 03:47

0.050 Amp or 50 milliAmp is the “ accepted value” for normal current draw.

I suspect the Central locking circuit has something listen8ng for the key fob all times

Post by **ZionXIX** » 17 May 2018, 21:58

Just finished day 2 of my timing belt/ water pump job. Partially stripped the tensioner pulley bolt but still managed to break it loose without drilling the rail. I bought the aisin pump and tensioner since they are listed as "OE". The tensioner is identical in every way. The water pump has a few differences which leads me to question it's "OE" status. The Volvo pump has an intermittent interruption in gear teeth, where as the aisin one is a complete gear. I cleaned the block surface until shiny using a razor and steel wool. So far that has been the most grueling task. The aisin gasket fit over the guide pins and sat flat against the block with no problems but sticks out a bit around the edges. I hope it doesnt leak. Every thing else for my kit is blue box Volvo. Hoping to get the belt fitted and finished tomorrow.

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Not sure if this is evidence of leaking

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I put enough leverage on that rachet to move the whole engine and the bolt was still trying to strip out. Such a poor design, a hex head bolt would dramatically improve the success rate of this job.

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Post by **ZionXIX** » 18 May 2018, 09:55

So I got the tensioner, tensioner pulley and idler pulley back on this morning since I had a few minutes. I couldnt get my torque wrench into a usable position for the tensioner torx bolt so I used a different style torx socket that looks like a driver bit pressed into a socket with an 8mm closed end socket wrench around it. I tightened it as much as I could with the little 6 inch wrench and gave it another 1/16 of a turn using a pipe. That should be good enough right? I also maneuvered the belt through the tiny gap behind the crank pulley, there is definitely just enough space to accomplish that.

My biggest issue now is trying to get the belt over the tensioner pulley. Do you guys remove the hydraulic tensioner for this part?

Post by **abscate** » 18 May 2018, 16:46

Try putting over the water pump last

Post by **erikv11** » 18 May 2018, 16:54

You can "cheat" the cam sprockets 1/8 of a tooth clockwise to keep the belt tight on the right side, then put the belt over the water pump last as suggested.

EDIT: Corrected "1/8 of a turn" (incorrect) to "1/8 of a tooth" (correct).

Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Re: Bringing her out of the Mothballs