2nd Head Gasket in 12 Months | Rant and Advice Wanted Please Topic is solved
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
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Re: 2nd Head Gasket in 12 Months | Rant and Advice Wanted Please
Timing will be easy on this car! Especially since you are pulling the head. Full speed ahead.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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jeffs850
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 11 July 2017
- Year and Model: 1994 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Portland , Oregon
I've done more head gaskets than I can count on both hands and never had a problem .. I didn't really see it listed .. But .. with all work being done when doing the head gasket , not one person listed replacing the head bolts ... When a head gasket goes , you have to remember the bolts are being stretched . So if you do all the work / or shop does , put it together you are using already stretched bolts .. so how is it that it can be torqued correctly ??? Regardless weather you have had or never had a problem , go the extra mile and replace the head bolts .. Just my 2 cents ... 
- RickHaleParker
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When a head gasket goes , you have to remember the bolts are being stretched .
Head Bolts are stretched when they are installed. Stretching Head Bolts a second time will streach them past their design limit. That is why you should never reuse head bolts. Doing so is one way to end up with snapped Head Bolts.
Head Bolts are stretched when they are installed. Stretching Head Bolts a second time will streach them past their design limit. That is why you should never reuse head bolts. Doing so is one way to end up with snapped Head Bolts.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
Yes good point jeffs850, always replace the head bolts. It should be a given but definitely worth it to state the obvious.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- nickelghandi
- Posts: 68
- Joined: 30 March 2017
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT
- Location: Frankfort, KY, U.S.
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Resurrecting this thread.
The HG leak is officially back. I am blowing exhaust and oil into my cooling system. Just failed the bubble test with the magic color changing fluid.
No overheating and no misfiring yet though it does feel a bit rough if let sit overnight after running the evening before. Thinking some coolant is coming back and making its way into the combustion chamber, but not enough to set a code yet. I will likely do this job myself this time and use only Volvo parts. Looks like $800-$1200 by the time I get a few tools and account for other miscellaneous things.
I have other vehicles so this one is not being driven so as to prevent damage.
The HG leak is officially back. I am blowing exhaust and oil into my cooling system. Just failed the bubble test with the magic color changing fluid.
No overheating and no misfiring yet though it does feel a bit rough if let sit overnight after running the evening before. Thinking some coolant is coming back and making its way into the combustion chamber, but not enough to set a code yet. I will likely do this job myself this time and use only Volvo parts. Looks like $800-$1200 by the time I get a few tools and account for other miscellaneous things.
I have other vehicles so this one is not being driven so as to prevent damage.
-Nick
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BlackBrick
- Posts: 31
- Joined: 10 September 2018
- Year and Model: 1997 850R
- Location: Washington
- Been thanked: 3 times
I am about to do this job myself. My head gasket is fine, but I need to have the head serviced because my valve stem seals are leaking pretty badly. Also, 174,000 miles, may as well inspect/clean those valves.
I keep reading that the Victor Reinz is the OEM, but I've also heard issues with VR, and some guys have seen a distinct difference between VR and OEM. It's expensive, but I've bought all Volvo OEM parts. (Tasca has the best prices, IMO) $75 for OEM head bolts, $75 for OEM head gasket, $75 for OEM valve stem seals. Plus all the other parts. $300+ I've spent just on parts, which is way more than those $100 VR kits, but I don't want to do this job twice.
That mechanic probably used a cheap head gasket, and that could easily be the issue. Or not torqued the bolts correctly?
Sorry for your $2000 loss. I've lost probably $1000 over the years not buying OEM. Lesson learned.
I keep reading that the Victor Reinz is the OEM, but I've also heard issues with VR, and some guys have seen a distinct difference between VR and OEM. It's expensive, but I've bought all Volvo OEM parts. (Tasca has the best prices, IMO) $75 for OEM head bolts, $75 for OEM head gasket, $75 for OEM valve stem seals. Plus all the other parts. $300+ I've spent just on parts, which is way more than those $100 VR kits, but I don't want to do this job twice.
That mechanic probably used a cheap head gasket, and that could easily be the issue. Or not torqued the bolts correctly?
Sorry for your $2000 loss. I've lost probably $1000 over the years not buying OEM. Lesson learned.
- RickHaleParker
- Posts: 7129
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- Year and Model: See Signature below.
- Location: Kansas
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One can replace valve stem seals without removing the head. One uses compressed air through the spark plug hole to hold up the valves up as one removes the springs and replaces the seals. If compressed air blows up through the valve guides, something else is not right down lower, the head does need removed and checked.BlackBrick wrote: ↑11 Sep 2018, 10:10 I am about to do this job myself. My head gasket is fine, but I need to have the head serviced because my valve stem seals are leaking pretty badly. Also, 174,000 miles, may as well inspect/clean those valves
If compressed air comes out the dipstick or the PCV, it is getting past the rings, stuck or worn piston rings.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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BlackBrick
- Posts: 31
- Joined: 10 September 2018
- Year and Model: 1997 850R
- Location: Washington
- Been thanked: 3 times
Thanks, I know that, but not sure if I'm comfortable with doing that, since I could mess up and drop something down in the cylinder. I also figured I may as well pull the head with 174,000 miles and check the valves and get them cleaned/fixed up. This also gives me an excuse to replace my exhaust manifold with an R type as I get ready to go stage 2.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑12 Sep 2018, 00:59
One can replace valve stem seals without removing the head. One uses compressed air through the spark plug hole to hold up the valves up as one removes the springs and replaces the seals. If compressed air blows up through the valve guides, something else is not right down lower, the head does need removed and checked.
If compressed air comes out the dipstick or the PCV, it is getting past the rings, stuck or worn piston rings.
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