Wouldn't pass State Inspection

[MDK]

State of Ohio flag... I'm in Cincinnati Mr Detail...I don't know what part of Pennsylvania you're in. I just hate seeing someone jerked around because the think they"gotcha". if you had all your parts together and came to Cincinnati ... I'd fix it. The dealership here cringes when I come in... I'M TAKING IT ALL APART!! RAHHHH!!!! hahaha

[Mr. Detail]

MDK, I live in suburban Philadelphia. far enough outside the city that I have wild foxes running thru my back yard.
I may just come and see you.

[XC70Rider]

Changing rear brake pads is exceedingly simple. Drive out two pins with a drift, remove pin retaining clip in the process, wiggle out old pads. Compress piston with a big pair of channel locks or large c clamp. Wiggle in new pads and drive in new pins with clip.

Of course, car is on jackstands with rear wheel removed.

Remount rear wheel and bed in new pads. Voila.

+1

Changing pads is easy. Of course you need the proper tools, brake grease, and brake cleaner. I installed Autozone's Duralast Maxi Ceramic pads 13k miles ago and they're still thick & smooth. Nice gripping power with very little brake dust. Another good factor is with the Limited Lifetime warranty I can swap them at Autozone with no questions asked.

Front: DGC794

Rear: DGC795

[E Showell]

I might want to hunt up a video on the rear brake pad change if I hadn't done it before. Wiggling the old pads out and the new in is second nature if you've done it before, but if you haven't done it, or seen it done, it might be nice to see someone do it before you attempt it. Nonetheless, it is dead simple, but don't forget to compress the caliper piston to make wiggling the pads in and out much easier, since the new pads are going to be thicker than the old ones they are replacing and you will need the extra clearance.

[Mr. Detail]

Thank you XC70 Rider and E Showell for your tips. I think I will attempt it.

[E Showell]

Just edited my post above with a little extra info.

[abscate]

You can make the piston compression easier by easing the brake bleeder screw a turn and catching the small amount onto a paper towel. A screwdriver can pry the piston back with the pads still in with a bit of lever force.

If the bleeder snaps, don’t fret, just crack the line at the caliper slightly, push the fluid out, retighten.

When all done ,flush with water , dry off, look for leaks.

Also, don't be afraid to scrape the top and bottom of the caliper where the pads slide in, HARD with a stiff screwdriver. In the NE, the metal will corrode and swell, and the new pads might appear to be too wide up-and-down. Ive even had to chip away some rust to make new ones fit, in chunks.