Oil seal leaking? Topic is solved

[- Pete -]

Is that axial play you measured? That’s a butt-load of play, if so! When I measured mine back when I was tackling this it was far under 1mm. Unless you’re measuring something different? I measured how far the hub/sprocket was deviating AWAY from the head. Moot point, the bottom line is your inner o-ring wasn’t (entirely) the culprit. It’s unfortunate there isn’t a less expensive way to remedy this. A lot of people arrive at this juncture and simply throw in the towel & sell it. The cars are just too great to give up on though. I just love them! I got over the seemingly insurmountable cost & so will you eventually
Way to go RVolvos!

[Rvolvos]

That’s interesting that Bugatti ( car company or just coincidental) makes a water pump that fits Volvo’s?

I think it is a coincidence. I did googled this brand and found one post from someone asking about the reliability of this pump. According to the OP it was part of a timing belt kit.

[Rvolvos]

Is that axial play you measured? That’s a butt-load of play, if so! When I measured mine back when I was tackling this it was far under 1mm. Unless you’re measuring something different? I measured how far the hub/sprocket was deviating AWAY from the head. Moot point, the bottom line is your inner o-ring wasn’t (entirely) the culprit. It’s unfortunate there isn’t a less expensive way to remedy this. A lot of people arrive at this juncture and simply throw in the towel & sell it. The cars are just too great to give up on though. I just love them! I got over the seemingly insurmountable cost & so will you eventually
Way to go RVolvos!

I did measured in the car relative to the engine block (2mm intake & 1.5mm exhaust) and removed from the car. I measured the movement of the inner core( portion that mates with the cam shaft) and that was about 3mm. It moves quite freely and easier than mounted on the cam shaft.
I did ordered both hubs today from www.Volvowholesalepartsdirect.com slightly more than Tasca but shipping is less and takes 2 days. Total including tax and shipping $574.
You are right about about the car. We tried replacing it with a newer used Volvo but they have there own quirks.

[abscate]

It’s an Italian aftermarket part company. EU engineering amd execution is usually top shelf

http://www.bugattiautoricambi.com/en/water-pumps/

[Rvolvos]

I have a question regarding the final step in retiming the engine.
Attached the Vida step tightening the center plug while the 3 bolts of the timing gear pullies are loose. I expected that the bolts would move counter clockwise in the slots. Instead they moved forward. FYI the cam locking tools where removed in order to install the timing belt. This is the opposite of how they where installed.
I have attached the Vida procedure, the current vvt hub position and a picture of the old hubs and the back of the cams.
What did I miss?
Edit: Looks like a should have put the locking back on, before tightening the center plug.

[abscate]

You need the cam lock tool in place to get the VVT HUB LOCKING Torx to the correct torque, which is really high.

How to position the three screws in the hub is a bit ambiguous in the 1999 VIDA instructions, as I found out in this thread. I did document how you can read cam flank angles to get it set right if you pop the “ slightly off “ timing code

( stand by)


Can flank thread in P80 forum

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93792&p=541694&hili ... nk#p541694

[Rvolvos]

Problem solved no more leaks. I redid the last steps and now understand the retiming of this RN engine.
Main takeaways, make sure the hubs are fully rotated forward and start with the vvt gears in the middle of the oval slots, to allow for minor corrections (not like from factory, see pictures above).
Purchased a Craftsman T55 1/2” bit and it survived the 120Nm like champ.
Measuring the play of the hubs is only meaningful on the camshaft and and not when removed.
For the oil seal install, I used a rolled up laminated sheet and the old seal to retain the shape. Went on the first try.
As pointed out the play in the vvt hubs are the most likely source of leaks and not the oil pump.

Still need to do the rear seals, they where not leaking. Probably end up buying an angled drill and a very sharp drill to remove the old seals.

[- Pete -]

I’d avoid drilling. Just use a sharp punch or pick and tap just barely through the metal ring encapsulated in the seal. Stick a screw in the hole & off you go.

Congratulations on a repair well done!

[abscate]

...and put the screw near the top of the seal, where no oil pools, so if you do scratch themetal, there is no consequence.