What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 06 Mar 2020, 08:33

All the highway driving I've done lately has paid off... I've hit a record high MPG in my R!

Post by **smacknab** » 07 Mar 2020, 17:40

I replaced rear springs, bump stops, shocks and shock mounts. I'm glad i splurged for the springs as i found my back right spring was snapped at the top, just inside the spring seat. Unfortunately, in the process i broke the bolt that holds the drivers side strut on which was a very sad moment for me. As for right now it's held on with a bunch of the biggest zip ties I've ever seen (photo of when I was about halfway through adding zipties), and my plan is to have someone weld something on the end to hold it on. If its more than $100 I'll consider sourcing a new trailing arm I guess.

I also replaced the front suspension (the full Sachs kit from FCP) including new springs, to match the new tie rods and end-links i did last month. While i was in there I replaced the front left knuckle, which i had accidentally drilled into the caliper bolt channel when trying to free a seized bolt.

Other than my broken shock stud bolt issue, my ABS light has turned on, and the tracs-off light as well. I unplugged my battery while i was working so i'm not sure what tripped it. I've heard going to the dealer the only way to resolve this issue, any chance they'll clear the code for free/cheap? Can an Indie do it?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Mar 2020, 22:17

Maybe it’s just the picture, but what’s going on with the spring? It looks like it’s taking an aggressive bend.

Changed the passenger side engine mount and lower torque rod in my brother’s S60 yesterday, and discovered that the brake line somehow curled itself up. No idea how this is even possible... I feel I would have noticed it before if the brake caliper had been flipped around. So I took care of that.

Also discovered the worst lower torque rod I’ve ever seen... the bushing on the transmission side was totally failed, it allowed the rod to flop around with zero resistance.

These two new mounts solved the nasty vibration the car had. Now it just needs struts, shocks, and brakes! Lowest mileage Volvo of the fleet and it needs the most work, meanwhile the highest mileage one is practically brand new... go figure!

Post by **abscate** » 08 Mar 2020, 04:39

Yeah, someone gorillaed the caliper around during a brake job.

You guys in NC suck with your dusty bolts, real toxic man eat rust!

Btw, here is sone guidance on how to install your E83 drivetrain in case you need.......not....

Post by **smacknab** » 08 Mar 2020, 06:42

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑07 Mar 2020, 22:17 Maybe it’s just the picture, but what’s going on with the spring? It looks like it’s taking an aggressive bend.

My buddy was asking the same thing, i think its just because the wheel is off the ground in the photo. To me it seems like the trailing arm drops a bit on a pivot, so it's pulls the lower spring seat away at an angle. Or its totally busted and i have no idea why!

Post by **abscate** » 08 Mar 2020, 08:28

Unloaded suspension, exactly. Even worse with the HD blue IPD springs I have on the T5

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Mar 2020, 08:52

smacknab wrote: ↑08 Mar 2020, 06:42
My buddy was asking the same thing, i think its just because the wheel is off the ground in the photo. To me it seems like the trailing arm drops a bit on a pivot, so it's pulls the lower spring seat away at an angle. Or its totally busted and i have no idea why!

Ah, yeah, probably just the unloaded suspension.

abscate wrote: ↑08 Mar 2020, 04:39 Yeah, someone gorillaed the caliper around during a brake job.

You guys in NC suck with your dusty bolts, real toxic man eat rust!

Btw, here is sone guidance on how to install your E83 drivetrain in case you need.......not....

Pretty sure those splines should be fully engaged...

Funny you should mention rust, the E83 has been a little bit of a pain to deal with in the rust department. The struts had to come out to get the axles out, and the bolt head on the driver side sheared off. Those things were seized up!
PB blaster did nothing, hammered the $%*% out of it with my biggest hammers, didn't budge. Finally had to go buy a torch (didn't have one yet because, you know... southern cars

) and heat the hell out of it, then hit it with the air hammer. It slid right out like butter!
Heat is the magic ingredient! The air hammer didn't do anything before that. I flattened the tip of my punch attachment and didn't move that bolt a millimeter.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Mar 2020, 09:01

The splines are ok, but the center carrier bearing is installed upside down. See the nice arched piece of the frame it would fit into it it were right? That as just after two stage torquing of the rear differential ZNS TTY ONE use bolts

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 08 Mar 2020, 17:56

abscate wrote: ↑08 Mar 2020, 09:01 The splines are ok, but the center carrier bearing is installed upside down. See the nice arched piece of the frame it would fit into it it were right? That as just after two stage torquing of the rear differential ZNS TTY ONE use bolts

Carrier bearing looks like it hasn't had enough personal attention (after several hours working on it) and has flipped just to get some attention =P

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Mar 2020, 18:31

Now just how did that happen?

What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?