What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[Cookeh]

Mildly concerned about the proximity of the CTS and plastic power steering pump, but could give it a stab. Worth trying whilst waiting for the extractors to arrive!

[bmdubya1198]

Went to replace the thermostat. Had to drill the heads off both bolts, then use a crowbar to get the housings separated. After all that, the studs are completely stuck to boot. Couldn't back it out with the double-nut method, couldn't get it out with molegrips... Have now ordered some stud extractors, but that leaves me stuck for days!

Exactors are the way to go, I picked up one from Autozone and it's awesome, but the specific sized extractors are way better for tight access. My cousin has a set from Mac and they work great.

Hitting it with heat wouldn't be a bad idea either, just don't go too crazy with it.

[kallekula]

Put more sound proofing in my bimmer.

[MoVolvos]

Put more sound proofing in my bimmer.

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More? Is it worth it in terms of cost to effectiveness? Yesterday son and I were talking about insulating the spare tire well / trunk area of our C30 due to the muffler delete. Went from no muffler, a walker flex pipe, a solid pipe and lastly flex pipe slipped over the solid pipe to act as an open / inside out resonator. Was not planning it but the parts just happen to come together as such.

Around $18 for the experiment. Now it's bearable till we decide whether to buy a welder to fabricate our own dual exhaust. How much sound will insulating the spare tire well further bring down the remainder of the livable drone?
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[Cookeh]

Huge case of diminishing returns when you get above 25% panel coverage. Those products typically only work for vibrational dampening (naturally), so will reduce structural-borne noise but won't do anything for wind or tyre noise.

If you're looking to reduce airborne noise (like wind and tyre mentioned above), then you'll need to add absorbers - thicker foam or fibrous products.

The drone from your exhaust is caused by resonances in the system, the dampening types of product used in the doorskin above will not do anything for that. You can reduce the audio of the drone by using acoustic absorbers, but you won't eliminate it through such treatments.

[kallekula]

Put more sound proofing in my bimmer.

.
More? Is it worth it in terms of cost to effectiveness? Yesterday son and I were talking about insulating the spare tire well / trunk area of our C30 due to the muffler delete. Went from no muffler, a walker flex pipe, a solid pipe and lastly flex pipe slipped over the solid pipe to act as an open / inside out resonator. Was not planning it but the parts just happen to come together as such.

Around $18 for the experiment. Now it's bearable till we decide whether to buy a welder to fabricate our own dual exhaust. How much sound will insulating the spare tire well further bring down the remainder of the livable drone?
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It reduces vibration and outside noise. Also gives a nice, heavy safe-like thump sound when you close the doors.I don't cut any mufflers off so I wouldn't be able to tell you the difference in sound if you decide to insulate the wheel well.

[MoVolvos]

Huge case of diminishing returns when you get above 25% panel coverage. Those products typically only work for vibrational dampening (naturally), so will reduce structural-borne noise but won't do anything for wind or tyre noise.

If you're looking to reduce airborne noise (like wind and tyre mentioned above), then you'll need to add absorbers - thicker foam or fibrous products.

The drone from your exhaust is caused by resonances in the system, the dampening types of product used in the doorskin above will not do anything for that. You can reduce the audio of the drone by using acoustic absorbers, but you won't eliminate it through such treatments.

The one material is dense and like someone holding / supporting you while you are being tossed to and fro / jointed so is a mechanical / physical restraint while the muffler is sound vibration requiring air pockets to reduce / filter like insulation?
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[Cookeh]

Precisely. Dampers add mass and elasticity, reducing vibration - stopping the noise from transmitting along the panel. This won't stop noise passing through or being reflected.
Absorbers prevent transmission of airborne sound through viscous and thermal losses as the wave travels through a medium. Essentially they reduce the energy of the sound waves, so needs to be thicker and porous.

In the case of exhaust drone, the exhaust is already insulated vibrationally through rubber hangers so you'll need absorbers along trunk or floorpan to reduce the drone itself.

[Cookeh]

Went to replace the thermostat. Had to drill the heads off both bolts, then use a crowbar to get the housings separated. After all that, the studs are completely stuck to boot. Couldn't back it out with the double-nut method, couldn't get it out with molegrips... Have now ordered some stud extractors, but that leaves me stuck for days!

Exactors are the way to go, I picked up one from Autozone and it's awesome, but the specific sized extractors are way better for tight access. My cousin has a set from Mac and they work great.

Hitting it with heat wouldn't be a bad idea either, just don't go too crazy with it.

Still truly stuck. Drilled studs out to 4.8mm, stuck an no.2 (M6) extractor in it and nothing. Blasted it with heat, tried again (repeatedly for 3 hours!), no movement on either stud. Think I'm getting to the point where its either new lower housing time (bet you the 3x T40s there strip too...) or drill and helicoil.

[Stu70]

Have a google for ‘ Wurth Time-serts’- In my opinion more robust than helicoils in this situation.