I replaced my outer CV joint, I had this weird clicking sound when going from D to R or R to D, upon closer inspection, when the car was rolling forward when in Park, the CV joint would do a click backwards, audible and with a jolt. I replaced it and this made the R to D and D to R much more quieter, though still a jolt, because of possible sticky solenoids.
However my inspection revealed that the right engine pad has failed, my upper torque engine mount also. This possibly also contributes to my worse shifting.
I would usually buy genuine Volvo, but these are hell of expensive, my next choice was Hutchinson but they are nowhere to be found in my country. I am currently left with Lemforder, Meyle as alternatives. Which should I go for?
What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?
- br0dy519
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 17 December 2019
- Year and Model: 2004 XC70
- Location: Windsor, ON
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Replaced wife’s XC70 muffler for the fourth time since ownership in 2016.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6233
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- Year and Model: 2001 V70
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I believe my 2001 V70 has the original muffler!
(But I live in southern Oklahoma where is dry most of the time and seldom snows.)
volvolugnut
(But I live in southern Oklahoma where is dry most of the time and seldom snows.)
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
-
scot850
- Posts: 14883
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- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Hey Br0dy519, what brand of mufflers are you using? We are probably getting to the EOL on our 2nd Volvo muffler (OE Volvo). The outer shell looks good, but I think the inner steel part is holey.
Car has 200,000km on it (actually almost exactly 100,000km each muffler).
Edit: Nearly fell off my seat when I see with taxes the rear muffler is around $1000 for an OE part!!?? For a muffler???
Neil.
Car has 200,000km on it (actually almost exactly 100,000km each muffler).
Edit: Nearly fell off my seat when I see with taxes the rear muffler is around $1000 for an OE part!!?? For a muffler???
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- Krons
- Posts: 1073
- Joined: 9 January 2022
- Year and Model: 08S60 05XC90 02S60
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Lemforder is typically a bit better than Meyle.dikidera wrote: ↑28 Jul 2024, 04:17 I replaced my outer CV joint, I had this weird clicking sound when going from D to R or R to D, upon closer inspection, when the car was rolling forward when in Park, the CV joint would do a click backwards, audible and with a jolt. I replaced it and this made the R to D and D to R much more quieter, though still a jolt, because of possible sticky solenoids.
However my inspection revealed that the right engine pad has failed, my upper torque engine mount also. This possibly also contributes to my worse shifting.
I would usually buy genuine Volvo, but these are hell of expensive, my next choice was Hutchinson but they are nowhere to be found in my country. I am currently left with Lemforder, Meyle as alternatives. Which should I go for?
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
- BlackBart
- Posts: 6501
- Joined: 10 December 2016
- Year and Model: 2004 XC70 BlackBetty
- Location: Over the far far mountains
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Todays we stuffed a bunch of dead tree branches in Betty the Volvo to take them to a City drop-off spot. We had a violent freak thunderstorm / microburst thing last week which knocked over trees and transmission lines and most of the City was out of power. Some overnight, some 4 and 5 days. Thousands of big snapped-off or blown down trees blocking streets, live power lines everywhere. "Don't float in the river, you could be electrocuted!" Neat. City says conserve water, we're using back-up generators for the pumps and we can't keep up.
Most people have trucks and dump trailers full of logs and branches. We've never seen sudden gusts like that....80 to 109 mph recorded.
Smushed is the technical term... that used to be a hip roof
Most people have trucks and dump trailers full of logs and branches. We've never seen sudden gusts like that....80 to 109 mph recorded.
Smushed is the technical term... that used to be a hip roof
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
- br0dy519
- Posts: 746
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- Year and Model: 2004 XC70
- Location: Windsor, ON
- Has thanked: 126 times
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Two of mine were walker at almost $400 and lasted about 2 years each. For a year I ran with a straight 2.5" pipe with a 90 deg angle on itscot850 wrote: ↑28 Jul 2024, 23:23 Hey Br0dy519, what brand of mufflers are you using? We are probably getting to the EOL on our 2nd Volvo muffler (OE Volvo). The outer shell looks good, but I think the inner steel part is holey.
Car has 200,000km on it (actually almost exactly 100,000km each muffler).
Edit: Nearly fell off my seat when I see with taxes the rear muffler is around $1000 for an OE part!!?? For a muffler???![]()
Neil.
I always maintain my brackets and rubber isolators, and have installed numerous repair brackets upon noticing any sort of deterioration.
This one I purchased the cheapest possible option. Check with your local Carquest for P/N 50012073955. It was $225 for me.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
-
dikidera
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: 15 August 2022
- Year and Model: S60 2005
- Location: Galaxy far far away
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Well not today, but hopefully tomorrow, as per Krons's suggestion, I have ordered Lemforder top torque mount and the engine pad(right engine mount aka passenger mount). I also plan to do some DIY stuff and fill the strut brace mounts with some filler material to make it a bit stiffer. I just hope my two front and back engine mounts which were Hutchinson have not failed as well.
Most importantly, and I do hope I can take some picture, I will use a standard non-magnetic Honda transmission filter 25430-PLR-003 and add it in-line with the return hose. Because this isn't a magnefine filter or its generic variants, VAI, MAPCO and so forth, I have ordered two neodymium magnets. It isn't the same , but I plan to attach it to the filter housing, it may not clean as efficiently as direct contact with the magnetic particles, but I am sure it would have an effect. But notice I said two magnets, I am wondering if and where to place the second, I was thinking of putting it on the outside of the sump, however it may negatively impact the solenoids, them being electromagnets.
It will be a nice experiment to see if installing a filter and adding magnets affects shift quality in the long run. I have not seen anyone do it after having complaints, most people install the filters before any issues come up. I don't expect miracles, but who knows.
The magnets I have bought are grade H so will have a max working temp of around 120C.
Most importantly, and I do hope I can take some picture, I will use a standard non-magnetic Honda transmission filter 25430-PLR-003 and add it in-line with the return hose. Because this isn't a magnefine filter or its generic variants, VAI, MAPCO and so forth, I have ordered two neodymium magnets. It isn't the same , but I plan to attach it to the filter housing, it may not clean as efficiently as direct contact with the magnetic particles, but I am sure it would have an effect. But notice I said two magnets, I am wondering if and where to place the second, I was thinking of putting it on the outside of the sump, however it may negatively impact the solenoids, them being electromagnets.
It will be a nice experiment to see if installing a filter and adding magnets affects shift quality in the long run. I have not seen anyone do it after having complaints, most people install the filters before any issues come up. I don't expect miracles, but who knows.
The magnets I have bought are grade H so will have a max working temp of around 120C.
-
dikidera
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: 15 August 2022
- Year and Model: S60 2005
- Location: Galaxy far far away
- Has thanked: 67 times
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The finished result

It's no Magnefine/MAPCO but I think it will help. Hopefully the magnets will not lose their magnetism so easily. Placement might need to change. I may need to put the magnet on the filter on the lower side and not the top.
I also installed Lemforder top torque mount and right engine pad, there is less of a kick, but I still think other mounts have failed. And the others are the Hutchinsons.
Addendum: The kicks have returned, I need to find the real culprit. Basically I know it's an engine mount, I am suspecting the front one which was a hutchinson installed like a year ago. Symptoms are that when I blip the throttle whilst the car is running, I get a jolt. As you know, when driving forward, the engine wants to counter-rotate backwards.

It's no Magnefine/MAPCO but I think it will help. Hopefully the magnets will not lose their magnetism so easily. Placement might need to change. I may need to put the magnet on the filter on the lower side and not the top.
I also installed Lemforder top torque mount and right engine pad, there is less of a kick, but I still think other mounts have failed. And the others are the Hutchinsons.
Addendum: The kicks have returned, I need to find the real culprit. Basically I know it's an engine mount, I am suspecting the front one which was a hutchinson installed like a year ago. Symptoms are that when I blip the throttle whilst the car is running, I get a jolt. As you know, when driving forward, the engine wants to counter-rotate backwards.
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