What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by **Blacklab467** » 06 Feb 2025, 07:31

BlackBart wrote: ↑05 Feb 2025, 12:54 We're having a mini-blizzard over here, mostly due to one of those North Dakota cold blasts spilling over the mountains. Hard-packed slippery streets, deep drifting snow. I'm getting the odd sensation I am not getting any AWD. You know that FWD feeling with wheel spin and the front end wandering sideways? - it's not grabbing and moving forward. And it has new Blizzak snows on it.

I'm not sure yet, I need to find an empty place I can goose it and turn and see if the rear is kicking in, or if it's delayed somehow.

And the garage is of course filled with old cars and loose engines and axles, so I can't pull it in.

I discovered that my AWD stopped working within the last 2 months also. I lifted the back end up and crawled underneath and tested the Haldex pump, It's not working. You can put 12 Volts to it and see if it spins. If you don't have any codes or CEL, and your angle gear and collar are good, you probably need a new pump. If you're going to make to investment in repairing yours, order a filter kit and a litre of fluid {Volvo Pn: 31367941}. There's plenty of aftermarket pump options available for <250 bucks. I just bought a Volvo blue box one for $600CDN and the filter kit was about $40. The labour involved in changing it isn't worth risking an aftermarket pump, I did this about 6 years ago with a Dorman unit that only lasted a few months.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 06 Feb 2025, 08:23

In the last couple weeks I found my 2001 V70 T5 was leaking at the right side of the block. It appeared wet with coolant and maybe oil. I ordered a water pump (OEM brand Aisin). When I started to replace the water pump, I removed the right hand front wheel, the timing belt cover, and tied back the inner fender. I ran the engine and watched for the leak. I found the source of the leak was higher and forward of the water pump. It appeared to be at the thermostat housing area. I ordered a housing gasket and started driving my Mercedes E320.
When the thermostat housing gasket arrived, I drained coolant and tried to keep a measure of coolant removed. I removed the aux. drive belt, thermostat cover with hose attached, loosened clamps for the power steering pump lines, and power steering pump itself (just moved to the right side). This gave fair access to the thermostat housing. A 6 inch long magnetic hex drive extension is the best tool for the Tork head housing screws. I used a Gear Wrench ratchet closed end wrench to turn the hex extension.
Sure enough, the removed gasket looked to be leaking at the top, outside edge. I used some HiTack gasket cement on the new gasket and put things back together. Getting enough coolant back in the engine was the usual pain. Fill, squeeze hose, fill more, run to open thermostat, and repeat as needed.
After getting roughly the same amount of coolant back in the engine, I have a stable level of coolant and no coolant leak. I did not replace the water pump as it was only 40K miles old and not leaking.
However, I still have a slight oil leak on the right side of the engine. This is likely a cam seal leak.
volvolugnut

Post by **vtl** » 06 Feb 2025, 08:42

Blacklab467 wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 07:31 I discovered that my AWD stopped working within the last 2 months also. I lifted the back end up and crawled underneath and tested the Haldex pump, It's not working. You can put 12 Volts to it and see if it spins. If you don't have any codes or CEL, and your angle gear and collar are good, you probably need a new pump. If you're going to make to investment in repairing yours, order a filter kit and a litre of fluid {Volvo Pn: 31367941}. There's plenty of aftermarket pump options available for <250 bucks. I just bought a Volvo blue box one for $600CDN and the filter kit was about $40. The labour involved in changing it isn't worth risking an aftermarket pump, I did this about 6 years ago with a Dorman unit that only lasted a few months.

FCP sells BorgWarner's one (who owns Haldex now) for $257.99.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 06 Feb 2025, 08:45

I have a spare AW55, this means I can experiment with my own. I will try and see if overfilling with ATF can produce any positive side effects. Yes I am aware of the dangers. In normal circumstances I would not attempt this.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 06 Feb 2025, 09:22

dikidera wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 08:45 I have a spare AW55, this means I can experiment with my own. I will try and see if overfilling with ATF can produce any positive side effects. Yes I am aware of the dangers. In normal circumstances I would not attempt this.

I think the high detergent levels of ATF may cure some problems. Worth a try if you have no options left.
volvolugnut

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 06 Feb 2025, 11:36

Well, it most definitely will not. It's a valve body issue, but my torque converter is also worn out. However truth be told, when I first bought this car, it only had a bump on 2-3, it was flawless despite the dark brown to nearly black ATF. A few accidents + going for different ATF brands reduced it to it shifting bad both cold and hot, and every gear is now perceptible.

Plus I've already flushed it with 30-40+ liters(quarts as well) over it's lifetime, if anything it became worse and worse each time. Now I will simply test what happens WHEN I overfill it, and keep resetting adaptations.

Post by **vtl** » 06 Feb 2025, 12:41

dikidera wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 11:36 Well, it most definitely will not. It's a valve body issue, but my torque converter is also worn out. However truth be told, when I first bought this car, it only had a bump on 2-3, it was flawless despite the dark brown to nearly black ATF. A few accidents + going for different ATF brands reduced it to it shifting bad both cold and hot, and every gear is now perceptible.

Plus I've already flushed it with 30-40+ liters(quarts as well) over it's lifetime, if anything it became worse and worse each time. Now I will simply test what happens WHEN I overfill it, and keep resetting adaptations.

What ATF is in it now?

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 06 Feb 2025, 12:47

about 30-35% Volvo original fluid. It's beyond fixing with fluids now, just experiments to see what happens with more ATF.

Post by **vtl** » 06 Feb 2025, 13:05

dikidera wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 12:47 about 30-35% Volvo original fluid. It's beyond fixing with fluids now, just experiments to see what happens with more ATF.

I forgot, did you add Lubegard HFM?

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 06 Feb 2025, 15:31

vtl wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 13:05
dikidera wrote: ↑06 Feb 2025, 12:47 about 30-35% Volvo original fluid. It's beyond fixing with fluids now, just experiments to see what happens with more ATF.
I forgot, did you add Lubegard HFM?

Sort of...the sales rep of Lubeguard convinced me to use Lubeguard Platinum, not HFM so that is why I got. It did not improve much tbh.

Wait till you see me squirt in the 8 speed ATF(perhaps jws3324 instead of AW-2) into the 5-speed. Thats a nice experiment.

I still think by changing the TCM parameters for shifting, a better feel can be obtained even with wear and tear in the VB. Sadly I did not find the maps and then had other projects to tend to.

What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?