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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Blacklab467
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Year and Model: 2007 xc 70
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Blacklab467 »

Changed my Haldex pump and filter. The previous pump had failed about a month ago. The fluid was pretty clean but I elected to install a new filter and fluid nonetheless. Annoying job removing the propshaft and flange but nothing was rusted because I had it off about three years ago and greased the areas that usually get rust adhesion upon reassembly.
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2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

scot850
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Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

This is one of the jobs where going Blue Box makes sense. A lot of work that you don't want a do-over on. Glad to hear you got the AWD working again just in time for the snow to be melting away!

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

dikidera wrote: 24 Feb 2025, 06:00 I plan to put the car on jackstands, which are at most 38cm in height, the engine will be held by a support bar, but the actual transmission I will have to remove by jacking it very lightly with a floor jack, I am afraid I have no other tool to get it down with. The only problem is the potential for it to sway, since the floor jack only has a small circular pad.

Although I have access to many many tyres.
You can lower the entire engine and trans to the floor with that bar, and separate there with no jacking. I did this with ,y clutch replacement which is much harder than removing an automatic as it has to align.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82676&hilit=Release+bearing
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

Sounds a bit more difficult. The entire electrical installation will have to be put to the side, the water hoses need to be disconnected. I think it would double to triple the work time on the car.

And my electrical installation isn't good in the engine bay last time I had an ECM short out(yes the ecm itself).

vtl
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Post by vtl »

abscate wrote: 27 Feb 2025, 13:09
dikidera wrote: 24 Feb 2025, 06:00 I plan to put the car on jackstands, which are at most 38cm in height, the engine will be held by a support bar, but the actual transmission I will have to remove by jacking it very lightly with a floor jack, I am afraid I have no other tool to get it down with. The only problem is the potential for it to sway, since the floor jack only has a small circular pad.

Although I have access to many many tyres.
You can lower the entire engine and trans to the floor with that bar, and separate there with no jacking. I did this with ,y clutch replacement which is much harder than removing an automatic as it has to align.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82676&hilit=Release+bearing
Aligning transmission to engine is easy with cherry-picker and floor jack. Nothing to write home about.

SacredHeart
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Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
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Post by SacredHeart »

Today I topped off my antifreeze after getting the drive belt, pullies and water pump replaced on my new to me 2006 S60 25T AWD. After it was replaced and the car returned to me on Wednesday, I drove the car about 4 hrs north (from Central Illinois to SE Wisconsin) and by the time I reached my destination, the low engine coolant message let me know that all of the air that must not have been bled out of the line after the repair. Pretty simple, but had me wondering for a moment because as I said, the car is new to me and you never know with a used car.

So far, other than the radio stations not coming in as strong as my other cars, not too much not to really like about this car.

dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

Yup happens on most cars. Especially this one. I've probably had to drain it 10+ times, and 5 times a hose exploded and had to replace and refill, so I have 15+ times of topping off coolant.

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

SacredHeart wrote: 28 Feb 2025, 12:44 Today I topped off my antifreeze after getting the drive belt, pullies and water pump replaced on my new to me 2006 S60 25T AWD. After it was replaced and the car returned to me on Wednesday, I drove the car about 4 hrs north (from Central Illinois to SE Wisconsin) and by the time I reached my destination, the low engine coolant message let me know that all of the air that must not have been bled out of the line after the repair. Pretty simple, but had me wondering for a moment because as I said, the car is new to me and you never know with a used car.

So far, other than the radio stations not coming in as strong as my other cars, not too much not to really like about this car.
I wouldn’t sweat it. I had the same thing on my 2008 S60 2.5T. My Indy shop here in Des Moines did t-belt, water pump, etc and I had the low coolant light come on at 75 mph on I-80/I-35 on the way home-scared the dickens out of me lol. Luckily the shoulder was wide and 3/4 full jug of coolant in backseat. I think I topped it off one more time and has been steady since.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
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Krons
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Post by Krons »

I scrubbed oil drip stains from my driveway - ugh.

Kids 05 XC90 2.5T has a good drip (4” circles on the concrete), recently did cam seals with the t-belt and water pump but fear it may be the crank seal. Currently has Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 in the oil pan and skeptical this will be one some oil leak elixir can fix. Fortunately the 6 gallon crankcase hides the problem well, take a while to get to the low mark. With spring around the corner may try 15w40 and some STP high mileage oil treatment with stop leak. I know it really just needs looked at…
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA

dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

Krons wrote: 01 Mar 2025, 16:05 I scrubbed oil drip stains from my driveway - ugh.

Kids 05 XC90 2.5T has a good drip (4” circles on the concrete), recently did cam seals with the t-belt and water pump but fear it may be the crank seal. Currently has Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 in the oil pan and skeptical this will be one some oil leak elixir can fix. Fortunately the 6 gallon crankcase hides the problem well, take a while to get to the low mark. With spring around the corner may try 15w40 and some STP high mileage oil treatment with stop leak. I know it really just needs looked at…
On my NA the cam seals on the rear side(to the fuse box) leak, I replaced them 2 times already, but I can't seem to install them properly or there is more wear there and they cannot work out of the box without some additional sealant.

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