Preferred Tools for Volvo Maintenance Seeking Expert Advice

[1997volvo850]

I spent quite a bit of time today at Harbor Freight and Sears buying the tools I believe I
will need for upcoming work on my 850. I will summarize this tomorrow and follow up with
reviews of the quality in the future (when they break or fall apart).

The only piece on my list that I did not purchase is a floor jack. I actually forgot to look
at the $99 HF floor jack suggested by whoa.

The main reason is that the larger jacks are much more expensive and weight on the order
of 100 pounds.

I started wondering if a 3 ton monster was really necessary to work on my 3200 lb Volvo 850 GLT.
Or is it a Geely 850 GLT.

I then started looking a smaller 2 ton and 2 1/4 ton jacks. The reviews seem to indicate these
fail after a short period of time. Sears and Harbor Freight both sell 2 ton jacks. I'm wondering
if failure of these jack is due to lack of proper maintenance (not sure what the maintenance
routing is, but I see jack oil sitting next to all the jacks so I suspect you need to add this or
your jack dies.

Given that the little jack that came with my car is able to jack up my car to change a flat it
seems like someone might be able to recommend a smaller floor jack that has a good reliability
record. HF sells a 2 ton floor jack for $29. I'd be willing to pay more for a more reliable 2 ton jack.

Is this a viable option or do most of you go for the 3 ton monsters...

Any help is appreciated.

[whoa]

I got a 3.5 ton jack at Costco 8 or 9 years ago after a smaller jack crapped out in no time at all. "Larin SUV-7000"---steel, not aluminum like they're selling now. Made to go high enough for SUV work, I guess. But it goes plenty low. Anyway I'm sure it was under $100, and I've definitely never wished I had a smaller jack. There's a difference between how much weight something can hold in ideal conditions and how solid it is in the unexpected or stupid-move situation. I'm always glad for the burliness when I'm sticking jack-stands under the car or pulling them out.

Also, if you're only going to have two jackstands (I have four) get some wood blocks to use for peace of mind backup. You should never put yourself in a situation where one piece of equipment failing or being set up wrong will kill you.

As for longevity, even more than oiling the thing, remember not to leave it in the locked position.

PCV: wobble extensions or u-joints should make it easy to get to the intake manifold bolts; magnetic pickup makes it easy to remove and install them; long extensions (HF wobbles are perfect) make it easy to get to the dipstick bracket bolt from below, though now that I've done it, next time I will go from the top with a regular box-end wrench; the hard-to-see hose clamp near the turbo (and others) go most easily with a 7mm socket and maybe a long extension--just jump in there and feel around; Oetiker clamp crimper, already covered above; be sure the PCV vacuum hose (to the intake) is clamped well at both ends (be prepared to find that the FCP kit's elbow at the PTC is too big--replace with short length of vacuum hose); have a short piece of 5/16" ID fuel line with clamps to replace the old return line hose; wiggle the turbo shaft while the hose is off to see if there's any play; replace every vacuum hose and decayed vacuum elbow you can while you've got all that stuff out. It's also as easy as it will ever be to get to the lower radiator hose and heater hoses.

[1997volvo850]

whoa - I need to learn to walk before I can run.

I purchased quite a few of the recommended tools from Harbor Freight. Will summarize later.

In terms of vacuum tube what is the normal method for collecting the hose. Do you go to the
auto parts store and just ask for 30 feet of vacuum hose? Is most of the vacuum hose the same
size? It would be great if someone made a list of vacuum tube sizes and lengths that are necessary
to do a complete replacement of vacuum hoses. I did buy the FCP elbow kit since these have been
know to deteriorate according to other posts.

I will be experimenting with cleaning my PCV system today along with modifying my PCT valve.
Replacing all vacuum hoses will have to go on my ever growing to do list.

If a clear PCV system does not eliminate the moist white smoke from my tail pipe then I will have to
do some deep thinking on whether to continue. No need to replace timing belt, water pump, serp belt
if the car won't pass emissions. If the head gasket is blown or valve seals are bad we are talking major $$$ and
I'm not ready to rip apart the engine (do the various additives work). I suspect my clogged PCT valve
did some major damage before I discovered the problem.

Thanks.

[1997volvo850]

I'm planning to do a compression test on my 850. This looks pretty easy - unplug injectors, replace spark
plugs one at a time with gauge, and turn over car 5 times to get a reading. Pep Boys wants $105 to do this.

The test kits seem to run from $30 (Sears) to $70 and above depending on the fittings you need. The cheapest
one at Sears is $29 and will fit 18mm and 14mm plug sizes.

Anyone know what the plug size is for the Volvo 850 GLT?

Any recommendations on a reasonable compression tool?

I am also planning to purchase a fuel pressure gauge. Sears has a $39 gauge that appears like it will do the
job.

Any other recommendations?

Thanks.

[whoa]

14mm

I'm sure the cheap Sears gauges are fine. Guess where I got mine?

(Actually I don't have a fuel pressure gauge)

I guess you have moist white smoke even after the car is warmed up? Are you losing coolant?

[1997volvo850]

I have white moist smoke coming out my tailpipe. I am not losing coolant though I only noticed
the white smoke recently.

My plugs are quite old and I will replace them shortly (after I run some injector cleaner though the
system). I don't want to do anything to destroy my new set of Volvo plugs.

I removed all 5 plugs. There is significant carbon build up on all 5 piston heads. I believe this rules
out the general consensus that WHITE SMOKE = BLOWN HEAD GASKET.

The white smoke occurs primarily when the temps are cool. It does not go away after long idle.

When it is hot I do not see white smoke at all though the exhaust is still moist. Clearly something is
causing the white smoke. I need to pass emissions inspection or think about getting rid of her.

Maybe the compression test will tell me it's time to parts out the cars. We shall see. I will try to do
this on the weekend. I'd better check out Harbor Freight for the gauges I need...

[cn90]

Believe it or not, the Harbor Freight 2-ton floor jack ($29 at HF, but $20 on sales now at Advance AutoParts) has very good review.
A friend of mine has had it for 8 years, zero problems.

The key thing to keep floor jack lasts a long time:
1. Leave it inside, do not expose it to rain etc (rust).
2. As soon as you jack it up, use jackstand. This relieves the pressure on the floor jack.

[whoa]

1997, I asked whether it smokes when the CAR is warmed up, not when it's hot outside. You didn't answer that. I also asked whether you are losing coolant. You didn't answer that either. Two for two!

Water is a major component of exhaust because it's produced by combustion. When the exhaust system is still cool, the exhaust comes out partially condensed, as a water mist (people call it steam or vapor, but you can't see those things), which is white. When a healthy car gets warm, the water is in vapor form and you can't see it (unless it's really cold and/or humid out when it condenses more quickly upon leaving the tailpipe, despite being hot).

So all cars produce white smoke, particularly on cold or humid days, until they get warmed up. Given what you've told us, it's possible you don't have any problem at all, at least as far as white smoke is concerned. If you have a lot of white smoke even after driving around for 30min, in 60 degree temperatures on a clear day, there is something wrong. If it's really white smoke, then it really is probably coolant; you should then be LOSING coolant, and you should smell a distinctive "sweet" smell from the exhaust.

If I were you and I wanted diagnostic help on this, I would post a video of the smoke showing clearly what it looks like--how much and what color--and describe the circumstances exactly (was the car started 30sec ago after sitting, or has it been driven for an hour? is it freezing out, or is it warm?). And also make a practice of answering the specific questions people ask you who are trying to help you.

[1997volvo850]

My 6:00am post indicates I'm not losing coolant. My car still smokes after the temp needle reaches 3 o'clock
(which I assume means the car is warmed up).

Since my car did not pass inspected (due to Check Engine light) I am currently not driving it (for a few months).
I have it sitting in my garage as I try to fix various things (odometer, blower, therm, pcv, tb, water pump).

After determining timing belt is long overdue I decided not to drive car again until I change timing belt.

That said, I do start the car and let it idle for long periods of time (25-30 minutes), hoping that this will not stress
my TB into failure.

Plan is to change TB this weekend. Then I will take her on a long drive to the inspection station.

If you are saying that a hard drive might clean out my engine then I won't be able to drive it until this weekend. I would be
so happy if a hard drive solved my problem.

Volvo 850 #2 does not smoke at all so I've been assuming something is wrong with Volvo 850 #1. If white smoke was
normal I would expect similar behavior from both 850s.

I do NOT smell the traditional coolant smell (like when the heater core leaks) when I sample the exhaust.

Thanks for trying to help.

[whoa]

My 6:00am post indicates I'm not losing coolant.

Heh; sorry about that.

Yeah, I'd be interested to hear if there's a change when you drive the thing and get the exhaust system nice and hot for a while.

Keep us posted.