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DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Project: Volvo V70 Front Strut Replacement
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Ozark Lee
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Re: DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks

Post by Ozark Lee »

newuser909 wrote:Guys, two questions on this install with Bilstein TCs. Does the star nut install star part down or up? How far does the 22mm locking nut that comes on new Bilstein strut need to be screwed down? I'm finding it really hard to tighten it more than a turn or two with an allen wrench inserted to keep the shaft from spinning. Any tips?

Anyone have a finished picture with all the parts installed on a new Bilstein strut?

thanks.
Star up.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
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KlubMarcus
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Post by KlubMarcus »

If you aren't sure about replacing/upgrading your suspension, here are some pictures of parts that came off my 1998 V70 XC after 122,000 miles. Mostly stop and go city driving with a few multi-state vacation trips. It was worth it! I'm driving around kids from the youth ministry in a nice handling wagon.
ImageImage
Attachments
Worn OEM front strut bump stops, upper strut mount bearings, & upper spring seats from a 1998 V70 XC.
Worn OEM front strut bump stops, upper strut mount bearings, & upper spring seats from a 1998 V70 XC.
CIMG1890 (448x800).jpg (252.76 KiB) Viewed 3101 times
:o The beater just won't die! So we're clawing our way back to Stage 0.
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Here is my progress with DS suspension...

The sway-bar-end-link were removed from both sides, DS and PS. I noticed that the sway-bar turned and moved up, from 9 to 10 O'clock position at DS, but I was not sure how much.

Now I am working with installing new suspension parts, and it confirms that the sway-bar ends had moved up, it appear quite a bit. Which makes the end-link appear longer, and extend from its fastening location on the sway-bar. There is a 4-5 inch gap.
sway bar end link appears longer
sway bar end link appears longer
MVS_0488.jpg (322.78 KiB) Viewed 2902 times
Haynes Manual does not make a reference to this situation.
Is it a push and pull exercise to align the two, where?
Last edited by xHeart on 22 Nov 2012, 10:06, edited 1 time in total.
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Here is a view of passenger side to compare with above post.
fully stretched over end-link
fully stretched over end-link
MVS_4100.jpg (558.37 KiB) Viewed 2903 times
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vjaneczko
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Post by vjaneczko »

Did you jack up the other side of the car so the tire is off the ground? That should cause it to line-up with the side you're working on. You could either push the sway bar down to 'catch' on the link, or compress the strut so the link is raised up.

You did verify the replacement parts are the same size as the old ones, right? :lol:
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams

1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
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wheelsup
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Post by wheelsup »

I used a pry bar to push down on the sway bar and slipped the end link in. Not sure if that is the authorized procedure but it worked for me. Also important to keep the pressure off as you tighten down the nut on the back side. IIRC it's 37 ft-lbs.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Place a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm and jack it up.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Thank you for taking time from your Thanksgiving.

Here is my progress.
All torqued to specification. I will handle rotor and caliper after both side are up, and wanted run few items by y'all before moving to passenger side, hence correct mistakes, if any.

1- When raised from below the control arm to reach to a ride-height of 14" (center of hub to fender), it lifts up from the jack stand after 15 1/2", so the control arm was torqued at this height. Is this ride-height a reset b/c of the new struts? I took extra care assembling the struts/coil.

2 - The rebuild from Raxle is also in with new seal, but the 36mm nut doesn't thread anymore, it is sitting one thread short of flush with axle. Recalling how it was, it still has to threads 5-6 more...?
except for knuckle, all parts are new from OE/OEM
except for knuckle, all parts are new from OE/OEM
MVS_0490.jpg (357.86 KiB) Viewed 2851 times
The three 13mm strut mounting nuts to the body is Bilstein self-locking type. Fully threaded and torqued, but one with arrow is not holding the torque, 18ft/lb.
i prefer flange over self-locking type bolts
i prefer flange over self-locking type bolts
MVS_0491.jpg (268.95 KiB) Viewed 2851 times
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
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Gubernaculum
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Post by Gubernaculum »

I was having trouble removing the top nut (21mm on my 2000 s70) from my strut since the spring mount was broken (thus, it rotated every time I tried to turn it). It would be simple with an impact wrench but I don't have one handy.

erikv11 suggested heat and PB blaster. With the strut in the car, I did that, and I used a giant adjustable wrench to hold the top of the strut still while I tried again with the longest 21mm wrench I had. It broke loose.

That's my tip.
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AlexBHughes
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Year and Model: 850 GLT, 1995
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Post by AlexBHughes »

This is a great thread! This will definitely help me get rid of the noisy/squeeky/clunky sounds from my passenger side strut.

Thanks for making this simple for a new guy!

Alex
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