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Synthetic Oil-- why can't you switch back/worth it?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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abscate
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Re: Synthetic Oil-- why can't you switch back/worth it?

Post by abscate »

erikv11 wrote: 29 Mar 2019, 11:07
abscate wrote: 29 Mar 2019, 04:36 ... with the T5, about 1 liter per 2000 miles.
That is pretty high consumption for a white block, I'm curious what's the mileage now on that engine?
230k

Its all leakage. I have not been able to pinpoint the source. I should break down and get the UV dye and track it down, honestly
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Post by MoVolvos »

*

Last year and currently Costco was and is having a sale on Mobil 1 and I saw the 0W-40 for the first time.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40 - Great Price By The Way
https://www.costco.com/Mobil-1-Full-Syn ... 69676.html

Years ago I had vowed to never used Mobil 1 but the price of $28.69 for 6 quarts and the 0W-40 year round oil was just too tempting. Well, not long after the 03 GS300 ~ 150K and 03 Odyssey ~ 220K both started seeping at the valve covers. Back to Rotella T6 and Swepco 308.

The Rotella I purchased when it was on sale for $12.00 a gallon without reading/knowing that it was a synthetic when I first acquired the Odyssey at 155K. It is the only Synthetic I use now. I think one change was at 10K and another 15K. Have always tried changing the oil every 6 months or max at 7K miles but just couldn't get around to it both times and the vehicles ran fine.

The Mobil 1 created 3 head gasket leaks years ago at different times so it took awhile for me to figure it out (88 Camry, 93 E300 and 99 Galant). Started using it around 94 and the Merc had a head gasket replacement at 60K. The other 2 cars had 100K to 200K when I introduce Mobil 1. I have not tried other Synthetics besides Mobil and Rotella (If My Memory Serves Me Right).

Here are two articles on Synthetic oils and why you should not switch or switch back and forth (especially Mobil :wink: )

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/what-type-of-o ... -in-my-car

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/when-it-isnt-b ... thetic-oil
Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
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2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
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Post by abscate »

abscate wrote: 29 Mar 2019, 12:20
erikv11 wrote: 29 Mar 2019, 11:07
abscate wrote: 29 Mar 2019, 04:36 ... with the T5, about 1 liter per 2000 miles.
That is pretty high consumption for a white block, I'm curious what's the mileage now on that engine?
230k

Its all leakage. I have not been able to pinpoint the source. I should break down and get the UV dye and track it down, honestly
...and I finally nailed it earlier in month replacing the turbo oil drain line and O ring seal. Engine is now totally dry. I suspect oil consumption will also drop.
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Post by erikv11 »

Yeah I saw you figured out that small leak. Let us know about the oil consumption I’m always curious about that. One thing I’ve learned all my cars use more (ie some) when they get a lot of highway time.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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Post by smoggyama »

Synthetic can take heat better.
Life is like a box of chocol- make that an engine compartment. You never know where the tubes go or how to rout a belt 'less you read the diagram on the underside of the hood. Do it right the 2nd time. So when all else fails, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
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Post by abscate »

I did run the Penzoil 10w-30 full synthetic in Elizabeth for one oil change and had a lot of valve stem seal smoke

Going back to either Castrol or Mobil 1 High mileage fixed that

Still using I liter per 2500-3000 or so.
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Post by FireFox31 »

Link to 2016 what brand of oil do you use thread.

On my new-to-me 2000 V70 with 200k mi, I'm planning to use Castrol GTX conventional 10W-30 for my first oil change. I will switch to a synthetic 5W-30 once I get more of the stage 0 rehabilitation completed.

This thread suggests that synthetic may dislodge the deposits in the engine, allowing leaks from valve stem seals. I'm not ready to deal with that until I've cleaned the PCV, replaced the leaking oil pump / crankshaft seal and oil cooler seals, and cleaned the old oil stains off the engine. Once stage 0 rehab is complete, I can "introduce more problems" by switching to synthetic, dislodging deposits, causing worn out parts to leak. With synthetic in the engine, I intend to do my first oil change after 3000 miles to remove those dislodged deposits.

Does this sound like a good plan of attack to rehabilitate a car with 200k miles of unknown maintenance history?
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Post by scot850 »

I would use cheap oil for a short time just to get any sludge loose. and drain when warm, before adding a good quality oil.

I only use what we call synthetic oil in North America, but now I see the Shell Rotella if I can find the right grade for my car I will use than going forward. It is spec'd similar to European synthetic which is way better than we get here. NA oil is what I used to call semi-synthetic in terms of quality.

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2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
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Post by MoVolvos »

FireFox31 wrote: 21 Jul 2021, 10:22 Link to 2016 what brand of oil do you use thread.

On my new-to-me 2000 V70 with 200k mi, I'm planning to use Castrol GTX conventional 10W-30 for my first oil change. I will switch to a synthetic 5W-30 once I get more of the stage 0 rehabilitation completed.

This thread suggests that synthetic may dislodge the deposits in the engine, allowing leaks from valve stem seals. I'm not ready to deal with that until I've cleaned the PCV, replaced the leaking oil pump / crankshaft seal and oil cooler seals, and cleaned the old oil stains off the engine. Once stage 0 rehab is complete, I can "introduce more problems" by switching to synthetic, dislodging deposits, causing worn out parts to leak. With synthetic in the engine, I intend to do my first oil change after 3000 miles to remove those dislodged deposits.

Does this sound like a good plan of attack to rehabilitate a car with 200k miles of unknown maintenance history?
*

Don't waste an oil change with conventional. Just start with either a synthetic oil from FCP or Rotella T6 5W-40 if you don't want to send old oil back to FCP for new. The 5W-40 should be an all year round weather oil for your area.

https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Sy ... 906&sr=8-5

Here in the video at 2:20 the Mobile 1 engineer tells you their synthetic will remove deposits. That it did for me back in the 90's and caused head gasket leaks on 3 cars. Mobile 1 is also not robust in recent test on 3 cars. All lacked power and the lower end groan badly on WOT (03 Odyssey, 03 GS300 and 08 C30 T5 M66). I'm not sure if it went into the 03 S80 T6.

Currently I have to use a particular Liqui-Moly VW Spec'd for my Tiguan otherwise it'll be Liqui-Moly 0-5W-40 of some sort from FCP or Rotella T6 for the other cars.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-v ... liqui-moly

*

2:20


*
Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

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Post by erikv11 »

I'd do what Neil said: like 1,000 miles or a hot summer month on cheap Wal-mart oil, then go to Rotella T6 5W-40 (that's a synthetic) and never look back. It's extremely unlikely to start leaking oil out some of the seams unless it is bleeding oil already.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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