questions about estimate for broken front coil spring

[enotslim]

Seems like driving with a damaged CV joint is dangerous. True? I will need at least a little time for this repair.

[enotslim]

The IPD video below says the symptoms of a failed CV joint can be vibration during acceleration but "not necessarily" during deceleration or at stable velocity. This is exactly opposite to the pattern I currently have. Noise and vibration are absent, or at least minimal, during acceleration, are first sensed at constant velocity and increase significantly during deceleration but independent of applying the brakes..



On the other hand I guess the abs sensor could be contacting the reluctor ring as a result of the axle being out of alignment due to a bad CV joint.

Replacing the entire axle would address both possibilities, right?

[abscate]

Not dangerous. If it really gets to the point where it will come apart, the noise will tell you to stop

If you are low speed 30 mph around urban area you could drive this for a year or more

CvS have a drive side and a coast side and depending which side is damaged , the noise will vary, the video message notwithstanding

[enotslim]

After much studying it looks like replacing the passenger side/right front axle is very easy. Disassemble the strut-steering knuckle, maybe the sway bar end link for clearance, tap out the axle, remove two bolts/one bracket and the axle almost falls out from the transmission. Assemble new in reverse order. Align splines carefully. Caliper can remain attached. Is it really that easy? The driver side/left front can require a removal tool.

Can't find remanufactured axle but fcp OEM should be good.

[cn90]

Re Axle and Boots, if you know how to raise the car and SAFELY support it on jack stand, you can do it.

I wrote a DIY below. Make sure you replace the seals too (I used Corteco brand):

DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Volvo Axle and Seals (110K miles)
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=91594

[enotslim]

Video/audio attached. Not driven more than 2 miles since my last post. Noise is now more "grinding". This seems like descriptions I read of a bad wheel bearing noise rather than CV joint. Correct? No clicking and it does not change much over "bouncy" driveway entrance. But it does not change much when turning the steering wheel either.

[YouTube][/YouTube]
[YouTube][/YouTube]

[abscate]

Sounds don’t record well for diagnostic purposes, I have found.

You need to run it up to 30 mph or so to do the swerve test on wheel bearings

Patriots parking lot during playoffs should be empty, try there.

Right axle, unbolt and pull off

Left axle has to be popped from transmission, requires some technique

You’ve got plenty of skills to tackle this, from firsthand knowledge.

Watch that foot.

[enotslim]

While "practicing" I discovered that the axle bolt is incorrectly torqued (see below). As expected, torquing to 35 Nm didn't tighten the bolt further. Unexpectedly, backing off ~130 degrees followed by torquing to 35 Nm returned the bolt to the initial position - exactly. Torquing further to spec (35 Nm plus 90 degrees) decreased but did not eliminate the noise.

In October 2018 one axle was replaced (non-Volvo indie) due to a faulty abs ring. The invoice specifies left axle (no part number) and I didn't remember differently. However, I the right front axle bolt is "new and shiny" and 13 mm The other three are "old and weathered" and 14 mm. It seems clear that the right axle was replaced (the invoice is wrong) and torqued only to 35 Nm but not to plus 90 degrees as specified. I can't document the torque data because I didn't video myself but .... A noise similar to the current noise began a few months after this axle replacement. I remember thinking it odd that a noise from the right front suspension occurred soon after work on the left front axle. I chalked it up to bad luck. The noise disappeared and I didn't pursue it then because it wasn't there. I suspect that was a mistake.

Is it possible that the under-torqued axle bolt led (eventually) to everything else - loose axle/bearing > stress on other suspension components > broken coli spring and noise from worsening axle/bearing? It seems the spline fittings on both the axle and the bearing may be worn requiring replacement of both. How can I evaluate this, or should I? Disassemble and inspect?

And just for fun I realized the steering wheel turns ~ 10 degrees counterclockwise when the car drives straight ahead. I know it needs alignment after all it's been through but is this related in a causal way to the other issues? Or a consequence?

Any chance the shop that incorrectly torqued the axle bolt over a year ago will (or even should) repair anything or everything? (I already replaced the broken spring.) Now that you've stopped laughing please make any suggestions that come to mind. Never ignore a noise, even one that's not there, is one thing, of course, but sometimes difficult to follow.

Hoping I'm wrong about all this.

Thanks.

[cn90]

- Bearing noise: jack up the suspect wheel and spin it. If bad bearing, it will be obvious.
- As mentioned previously: Quick Struts and move on, easy job.
- Alignment: look for the alignment DIY I posted in forum.
- Axle bolt: I re-used it all the time, 35 Nm + 90 degrees. I usually clean the axle threads really well bc it has grease on them (the hole is hollow and connects to the CV Joint area. Then a bit of Loctite on the axle bolt to prevent it from coming loose.

[enotslim]

I avoided spinning the wheels because I was uncertain about putting the car in neutral on jack stands. I guess it's OK with the emergency brake on and both rear wheels chocked ahead and behind? Any tips on safely jack standing a car in neutral? Or maybe only one wheel needs to be raised for this test?

The strut is fixed.

Can the axle bolt be entirely removed, cleaned and replaced while the wheel is on the ground supporting weight of the car without compromising the final result?