Maintenance Log: 205k-270k s70 rebuild before being totaled Topic is solved

[CIK7]

See if you can check the 'O' ring seals on the heater core pipes. Depending on the brand you use, some of them are a little thin and start to leak after a while. You may only have to replace with OE seals.

The leak may be sunroof drains blocked, drain tube broken (usually near where the connect to the tray around it at the 4 corners) or possibly a leak around the windshield seal if there is rust above the windshield.

Thanks for the update!

Neil.

I realize this topic is 6mo old but this is where my search led me. I know the drains connect to all 4 corners and that the 2 rear ones drain out behind the wheel well in trunk. But where exactly do the two front ones lead? Never could find them.

[scot850]

They run down the 'A'-pillars then come out behind the inner and out fenders under the car behind the front wheel fender liners.

Neil.

[smacknab]

SRS light came up again just before inspection, again swapped the clock spring with another junkyard unit. Then it failed inspection for bad tie rods which were 3 years old (FCP) for which I blame the terrible Providence roads. Replaced them for free with the lifetime warranty and aligned again under my firestone lifetime alignment. Side note I did just find out FCP now only gives store credit for lifetime returns.

It ended up being okay because the SRS light turned on again this week so I finally ordered a new clock spring from FCP (9157268), FCP lists this part as being only for 98 but Volvo lists it as good for 98-00 s/v70 so hopefully it'll be the last time I replace the clockspring.

Either way the car is now inspected for another 2 years and generally running fine. I still have that small coolant leak I need to dig into this summer. Less certain to me is it briefly had some weird issues where it would randomly die, and on restart it would turn on to idle rpm then the rpm would go down at a steady rate until the engine died. This repeated 3-4 times once in a parking lot then it finally stayed on when I restarted the engine. Hasn't happened again since, but yeah definitely more to dig into this summer.

[abscate]

FCP warranty has always been credit towards replacement. When stuff gets discontinued they are generous in allowing you to warranty replace with available parts

How many miles have you put on her now?

[smacknab]

It looks like they now give you a store credit after purchasing the replacement, so you have credit for a future purchase as opposed to being able to use the credit as a refund for a lifetime replacement part. I have no issue with it it was just a surprise. Their customer support is still amazing I had two sperate questions that were resolved immediately via email. According to VIDA the clock spring they stock doesn't work for the 99 so I'm back to looking for another one.

I think it's about to hit 255!

[Oly850]

I will show this post to my lovely wife, and she will then come to understand that you've gone completely mad, and that my Volvo addiction is mild by comparison. In all seriousness, fantastic work, I wish I could be this meticulous.

[smacknab]

Car recently passed 260k miles and 4 years of ownership. Aside from a couple no-starts this summer the car has been very reliable for the last 3 years. The no-starts this summer stemmed from a corroded ground wire to the block, so I replaced the whole negative terminal wire. This was the issue i noted in my update a couple months ago. Good reminder to check the simple stuff again as the car approaches 25 years old.

When i'm not traveling for work my focus has been on tuning and dialing in the turbo ranger, but stuff i need to get back to:

-SRS light and finding a good clockspring. Thankfully inspections are bi-annual in RI so i have a bit more time.
-It occasionally feels like theres a dead spot in the ETB or throttle pedal, somewhat random though.
-Possibly related, a couple nights ago the tach started bouncing at idle and the engine died while making a low speed turn, but started right back up
-small coolant leak (filling up the reservoir about once a year)
-sun roof drainage issues (which i haven't looked yet despite solid advice on where to start)

[scot850]

As it is an NA motor, there are fewer places to check.

1) Check the pressure cap on the header tank. When you remove it is there a residue on the top of the tank?
2) Check around the bottom of the header tank for leaks in the tank and pipework.
3) Check around the radiator for cracks/splits especially on the RHS (LHS from front of car below the top hose)
4) Check all the pipe clamps are tight
5) Check for evidence of leaking water pump shaft seal under the crank pulley area.
6) Check the pipework around the heater core connections at the bulkhead.
7) Finally check the heater core. Pull the carpet back and see if there is any evidence of dampness below the heater core and under the carpet. Don't assume if the carpet is dry on top it is ok. The carpet is rubber backed.

The weird running could also be the MAF needing cleaned or failing.

Neil.

[jmartin919]

I had that "cutting off when cornering" happen to my '93 850. Ended up being a break in the air intake hose that would open up just enough to suck in unmetered air. Would start right back up and run fine.

[abscate]

Smack barb...I’ve got a clock Spring I can get to you off my 99 which died saving my living CT...